Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1 minute ago, soviet_merlin said:

Ooo, the car is looking great!

How is visibility out the back with the wing that aggressive?

Thanks, visibility isnt the best, however it was never great anyway as the rear view mirror has a tendency to vibrate in my car and tilt down all the time 😆

Side mirrors still work though, and im barely ever looking behind me!

  • Haha 1
  • 8 months later...
15 hours ago, samw/skyline said:

How did/does the yelsha trigger kit work for you? Looking like I might get one. 

I haven't got around to fitting it yet, i bought a couple of different timing belt covers, new bolts etc, then i was missing a gasket. so i ordered the gasket and just haven't got around to fitting it all again.

Thanks for the reminder though, might be something i investigate this long weekend!

5 hours ago, DaymoR32 said:

I haven't got around to fitting it yet, i bought a couple of different timing belt covers, new bolts etc, then i was missing a gasket. so i ordered the gasket and just haven't got around to fitting it all again.

Thanks for the reminder though, might be something i investigate this long weekend!

Haha no problem. Let me know how it goes if you get it working for you. I hope it’s straight forward 

  • 4 weeks later...
On 3/25/2024 at 4:02 PM, samw/skyline said:

Haha no problem. Let me know how it goes if you get it working for you. I hope it’s straight forward 

Just waiting on my timing light to be delivered then i'll be fitting the kit up. will take plenty of photos of the process as it will be a learning curve for me with the haltech settings.

in the meantime though i ordered some carbon fibre ganador style mirrors the other month. fitted them up and pretty happy with them!

Had a prang a few months ago and badly dented the Offside Front Guard, so you'll be able to see the difference in the paint!

and also some a photo's that were taken at the border battle car show in Albury back in october - some of them actually appeared in street machine february issue.

399693416_728635862626267_2303669391112482446_n.thumb.jpg.f8f2dcc274ca2349e96d399a85cad816.jpg

399497664_728635832626270_8824473736589487987_n.thumb.jpg.4a19cf018ea5d92eb2613a72076f1b2b.jpg

IMG_6606.thumb.JPG.61d2f59e9a8007f4d4e1ce508c177a13.JPG

IMG_6607.thumb.JPG.ab3d1f023c93a2c34a564a5080f83024.JPG

IMG_8084.thumb.jpg.e0a6cecc26004e5a5da076bff4d03f08.jpg

IMG_8085.thumb.jpg.bc64f9037f42f82323fa210394d1350e.jpg

IMG_8086.thumb.jpg.516bf440f2dbe6b5e19c6bf0d3560561.jpg

  • Like 3
22 minutes ago, DaymoR32 said:

plenty of photos of the process as it will be a learning curve for me with the haltech settings.

That kit is similar to the NZ Wiring Trigger kit, this is what I have for mine (your offset might be a little different as the plate, as I'm sure each manufacturer has it a little different)

image.thumb.png.db2311243bb5bf414e05518deb9b0746.png

image.thumb.png.a8285c3f7ff2bccb4afe462b505d18fc.png

I do have the filter slightly high, might drop it

image.thumb.png.8d0554fe4676540ebe9030d36139c3fc.png

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
8 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

That kit is similar to the NZ Wiring Trigger kit, this is what I have for mine (your offset might be a little different as the plate, as I'm sure each manufacturer has it a little different)

image.thumb.png.db2311243bb5bf414e05518deb9b0746.png

image.thumb.png.a8285c3f7ff2bccb4afe462b505d18fc.png

I do have the filter slightly high, might drop it

image.thumb.png.8d0554fe4676540ebe9030d36139c3fc.png

You're a bloody legend! so i just basically turn off fuel, lock timing at 10 degrees, and then tweak the TDC angle until the timing light shows 10 degrees too?

instructions state a rough trigger offset of 97which im assuming is in relation to slightly different positioning of sensor?

https://nzairfilter.co.nz/yelsha-d-instructions.pdf

  • Like 1
48 minutes ago, DaymoR32 said:

You're a bloody legend! so i just basically turn off fuel, lock timing at 10 degrees, and then tweak the TDC angle until the timing light shows 10 degrees too?

Pretty much, once the car is running, check it again (with the engine running) :)

48 minutes ago, DaymoR32 said:

instructions state a rough trigger offset of 97which im assuming is in relation to slightly different positioning of sensor?

That's for a Link, I can't recall the reasoning, however if you take 97 and minus it from 720 you get 623 degrees :) 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
20 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Pretty much, once the car is running, check it again (with the engine running) :)

That's for a Link, I can't recall the reasoning, however if you take 97 and minus it from 720 you get 623 degrees :) 

ah that makes sense now, thanks for explaining!

  • Like 1

Managed to get it all installed, along with a carbon timing belt cover, made sure to use the correct spacer to ensure there is a 1.3mm gap.

having issues with it not starting now, checked the scope and there are no wave forms whatsoever. I’ve followed the pin out correctly. However I’m wondering if the pinion may be different as this is a Neo in a 32.

read up on haltech tuning tips and it says to swap ecu pins 1&5 and 2&6 around.

will have a look tomorrow arvo at where to swap these pins around in the software as I don’t want to mangle the connector trying to change them round in the loom. Anyway a couple of photos for the time being.

IMG_8148.thumb.jpeg.f31f0d634c415b522aa0cd3330e321ff.jpeg
IMG_8149.thumb.jpeg.cdaa86fa07081f26076bbe97c82290bb.jpeg

IMG_8150.thumb.jpeg.d04ab39c3d5bcf73ea3952dceeca6acc.jpeg

IMG_8152.thumb.jpeg.92a4450c5d8a78cb65b15605ed2fac0d.jpeg

Looks like the connector itself on the trigger kit is pinned funny. 

Make sure you're not wired to the +12V, it should be sensor GND and back to B1 on the Elite 2500 (need to find the post I wrote years ago).

Edited by Duncan
Corrected B2 to B1 at OP request
On 17/04/2024 at 11:03 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Looks like the connector itself on the trigger kit is pinned funny. 

Make sure you're not wired to the +12V, it should be sensor GND and back to B1 on the Elite 2500 (need to find the post I wrote years ago).

yep, looks like the wiring guide has me wiring white to Ground and black to Trigger 1 (on 34 wiring), even if i went off the 32 wiring, the sensor is still wrong isnt it? white to trigger 2, black to 12v.

I'm assuming black is ground and white needs to go to trig 1? so just a case of swapping white and black around in the plug.

Neo/Hitachi CAS help needed! - RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002) -  SAU Community

1 hour ago, DaymoR32 said:

black is ground and white needs to go to trig 1?

I think so, I'll have a look when I'm home later.

I wrote a post on the now defunct Haltech forum detailing this, very useful they deleted it lol.

4 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I think so, I'll have a look when I'm home later.

I wrote a post on the now defunct Haltech forum detailing this, very useful they deleted it lol.

Absolutely baffles me why they deleted the forum. the facebook group can be kind of helpful, but you get too many bellend's spreading the wrong information.

Went home at lunch and swapped the white and black around and still nothing.

When i get on the laptop later today or tomorrow i'll see which pin leads to what colour wire (have a wiring specialities harness)

That should clear up any confusion hopefully.

For the NZ wiring kit (which Yelsha copied) the black wire is + and the white is -. For me (according to my wiring notes) I have the black (+) connected to pin B1 and white (-) pin B5. Hope that helps?

Just now, R3N3 said:

For the NZ wiring kit (which Yelsha copied) the black wire is + and the white is -. For me (according to my wiring notes) I have the black (+) connected to pin B1 and white (-) pin B5. Hope that helps?

Thanks, yeah the yelsha just uses a cheaper (non bosch) sensor i believe. if thats the case then the way i had the wiring the first ime should be correct. definitely going to have to consult the pin locations for the ECU. otherwise we are all just guessing!

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, R3N3 said:

connected to pin B1 and white (-) pin B5. Hope that helps?

This!

 

@Duncan can you please edit my 2x previous posts to say B1 (just incase someone reads it and gets confused)

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just a thought, how come you didn't use a 4D table? So you essentially run 2x fuel and 2x ignition tables, and the table/map switch is handled when there's enough WMI pressure detected. This is mine, but using the flex sensor as the 4th dimension, note the slider at the bottom. Between 0 to 70%, the timing is blended/interpolated , once it goes past 70% ethanol full send
    • Hi guys, after dreaming of owning a JDM legend for 20 years, I got the chance to buy a 1995 R33 GTR.  I live in a small country called the Solomon Islands which is in the pacific. There is no performance car scene here, however 90% of vehicles here are 2nd hand Japanese imports so there is a handful of JDM sports cars here, tucked away.  3 Evo VI’s, 1 180sx turbo, 2 GTO’s, 1 R32 GTR and 2 R33 GTR’s.    Only 1 Evo and a 33 (mine) are active. I’m hoping to set up a club to get these cars back in the road.    I’d known of my GTR for 9 years and always dreamed of owning it. At the start of this year I found it sitting outside a workshop waiting for a respray. It was in pretty bad shape, although running and driving perfectly apart from a big exhaust leak and worn out bushings. My brother in law who is a huge GTR guy came over for a holiday and I took him to see it, he got into my ear and I bought the car 2 weeks later as is.   I’ve had a pretty bad problem with alcohol and weed since 2020 and I really wanted to quit. So I used this as my motivation. I quit everything cold turkey and have been investing all my spare time into restoring this car. It’s honestly been the best experience and has been such a positive impact on my life.  There is no market for these cars here, no parts and no mechanics that can work on them, so if you wanted to sell one it would be pretty impossible unless you found the right buyer. After a bit of negotiating with the previous owner (a good friend) I got the car for $15,000 AUD ($85,000 SBD) which is insane.  I’ve almost finished doing a refresh on the engine, new turbos, spark plugs and split fire coil packs. Also new gaskets and seals, This car had no leaks to begin with, but it’s due now being 30 years old. . Next I’ll be working on the suspension, all new bushings, ball joints, king pins and new coil overs.  Then it will be body work, it has really bad rust in the boot floor, I have purchased a rear beaver cut from my bro which will replace the rusted out one. The car is originally KL0, but was burnt orange when it landed here, then it was resprayed toxic green and then Bayside Blue. I’m probably going to get it redone in Bayside Blue.  I’m super grateful to be able to enjoy this car and couldn’t have done it without my bro Chris from OG-JDM. Looking forward to the future with this car and hoping to get it on the runway at the airport here 😂  cheers fellas 
    • Also, it is just about triangularity. The less angle, the easier it physically is to do. Think of the amount of slip you're getting, as how hard you need to push an object. More slip, equals pushing way harder. Then the ramp is how steep the hill is. The Accel is less slip, which means it takes less pushing (less slip) to get it to be able to push apart. However, the steeper sides on the decell means it will take a lot more pushing (slip) to get it up the ramp.
    • It's the angle of the ramp from the vertical. You're measuring from the horizontal. To convert, take 90* minus your angle reference = Nismo Angle.
    • I agree, thus 45 degree is the *max* force one could apply to it. This is similar to what I've seen in uh... simulations... which allow you to play with diff ramp angles. Anything higher (or lower) than 45 degree would produce less force as 45 is the max... triangley.  I would state the 1 way is 90 degree, at least this is how my brain and other ways of explaining it refer to it. 90 degree also effectively acted completely open. I realise Nismo refer to it not as 90 (or 89) but "1". So I'm not understanding the angle on which these angles are based.
×
×
  • Create New...