Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got to stop googling because.....

https://www.oztrack.com.au/index.php/2013-09-27-06-14-12/performance-camshaft-information

3. HPA/HP2- low 230s cam, lumpier and more up high power by a small margin over the LSV calmer than the GT. Biggest recommended cam in Automatics.

6 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

That dyno graph will not be for a 5.7, fyi!

Yeah, I assume there is more to that dyno than a cam and some bolt ons.

From searching around a cam that suits my auto might get me a bit more up top but a good chunk in rhe middle without sacrificing to much down low, where rhe 3.9 gears should help anyway.

My power will be limited by the cam I am able to use with the stock converter.

The car is currently a daily/cruiser, the 3.9 diff has me reving pretty high, even in top gear, when doing 110, hence, I cannot fit a high stall to suit a big lumpy cam, and not kill the converter.

Compromise is  my middle name.

Anyway, that is what I'm rolling with ATM, I'll talk to somw SME's on it and see how I proceed.

The thing about cams is there's really very little "just better everywhere" cam.

Consult SME's at Ls1tech.com or give VCM a call and tell them (honestly) what you plan on doing with the car in entirety and they will be able to sell you a kit

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
9 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

The thing about cams is there's really very little "just better everywhere" cam.

Generally, more lift with a wider lobe nose but no increase in total duration is the best "just better everywhere cam". Harder on the VT of course, but something has got to give.

  • Thanks 1
1 minute ago, Ben C34 said:

get a 3500rpm converter. do it properly.

My understanding is that the correct RPM range for the converter should be 500 RPM below the cruise RPM IOT ensure the converter has stopped slipping.

Back when Mosses wore shorts I remember guys throwing in high stalls in their street cars with varying results of reliability, due to the converter constantly slipping and cooking.

Disclaimer: I'm far from actually knowing what I'm talking about, my memory is a bit fuzzy, and the googles is full of misinformation.

I'll give VCM a call and also pop into Oztrack in the Riff for a chat.

Oztrack did the original bolt ons and tune.

34 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Big transmission cooler.

Don't these things have an electronic lockup anyway? So when cruising that's in charge, regardless of whether the converter is in the slip range. Amiright?

correct. it isnt 1985 anymore.

  • Haha 1
6 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

correct. it isnt 1985 anymore.

Hey, I was 20 in 1985.......

Good times were had, I think I had my LJ around then.

Ahhh, fond memories of drag meets at port botany on Saturday nights.

In other news: I really need to research shit more.

  • Like 1
On 27/04/2020 at 1:05 PM, mlr said:

I'm thinking a bobber type build, I'm to old and arthritic for a sports bike.

Maybe a Triumph Speedmaster bobbered and murdered out.

Fark, who am I kidding, It could end up being anything.....

I’m a fan of the matte triumph scramblers personally. 

Now you cannot see the butchered air cond heat exchanger.

I used some pinch weld I had laying around, it ain't pretty but it works, I may try some different pinch weld next time I'm near somewhere that sells it.

Radiator should be a bit more efficient as well, I'm guessing, as I'm not lossing air pressure in front of the radiator due to the air bypassing the radiator and entering the engine bay up and over the top.

Before20200430_164437.thumb.jpg.d3fbcfe72174e3d736270eb9be9f1bf4.jpg

After20200501_101921.thumb.jpg.758cbbca1d92db117f72cb5f892c46ce.jpg

  • Like 2

Back on the more loud and obnoxious train of thought I have a lingenfelter 2 step for sale at the moment. It is the Lnc-003 that has 2 limiters, the lower limiter is activated when you flick a switch. Plugs straight into coil loom in minutes.

Was used to make boost at drags on the line (manual box) however is also pretty fun for shits and giggles, so I thought of this thread! Otherwise will put in ebay. 200 delivered

 

 

Spam over.

 

1 hour ago, Ben C34 said:

Back on the more loud and obnoxious train of thought I have a lingenfelter 2 step for sale at the moment. It is the Lnc-003 that has 2 limiters, the lower limiter is activated when you flick a switch. Plugs straight into coil loom in minutes.

Was used to make boost at drags on the line (manual box) however is also pretty fun for shits and giggles, so I thought of this thread! Otherwise will put in ebay. 200 delivered

 

 

Spam over.

 

Whilst I do love a good 2 step, yeah nah, #becauseslushbox

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
×
×
  • Create New...