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Getting fuel level signal into the ECU

Murray_Calavera
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Murray_Calavera Mentor

Murray_Calavera

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On 9/10/2020 at 11:06 PM, Tobz said:

Also would be interested in your voltage values for the fuel level

I still haven't gotten around to sorting this yet, but I will soon. 

I didn't think I'd have any speed bumps other then the charge light =/ When I get around to doing this job, I'll pull the dash out, take the car for a drive and see what else breaks. 

I'll post up the fuel level vs voltage table that I'll build as well when its done. 

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BK
BK

Did you get this sorted with the level readings ? Was thinking about doing this too in the Haltech on the current 32 build. The resistance values to work off are 90 - 0 ohms with the Nissans. In a 32

Murray_Calavera
Murray_Calavera

Ok this is the final, final update (hopefully).  So as I had a V1 Haltech IC7, my internal pullup resistor built into the dash for AVI 4 was only 1,000 Ohm. Using this resistor, I had a working v

Tobz
Tobz

I’ve got a 3D Racing Solutions dash coming on Monday hopefully. I’ll post results to see if they are any better.

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Tobz Community Regular

Tobz

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Murray_Calavera said:

I still haven't gotten around to sorting this yet, but I will soon. 

I didn't think I'd have any speed bumps other then the charge light =/ When I get around to doing this job, I'll pull the dash out, take the car for a drive and see what else breaks. 

I'll post up the fuel level vs voltage table that I'll build as well when its done. 

So this is what I’ve worked out that you need to sort if you replace the dash;

battery light

central locking control unit

interior light (I think the door light on the dash powers the interior light when you open and close the doors.

speed sensor 

 

then the wires you need to add to connect to the new dash are the indicators, hand brake, high beam

Edited by Tobz
  • 5 weeks later...
SLVRBAKSLPZ Collaborator

SLVRBAKSLPZ

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I used the fuel sender value I found on HERE

I really didnt want to pull the sender out at the time. I'm curious to see your readings

 

On a side note you may need the Haltech GPS module to clock the speed correct for the IC-7. The speedo signal goes to the OEM cluster before the ECU which makes it a pain to get the speed correct.

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SLVRBAKSLPZ Collaborator

SLVRBAKSLPZ

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On 9/11/2020 at 5:53 PM, Tobz said:

So this is what I’ve worked out that you need to sort if you replace the dash;

battery light

central locking control unit

interior light (I think the door light on the dash powers the interior light when you open and close the doors.

speed sensor 

 

then the wires you need to add to connect to the new dash are the indicators, hand brake, high beam

I have my IC-7 installed and I can confirm the interior lighting works w/o original dash

The IC-7 can display the battery voltage/set alarms so there's no need to wire for the light

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

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1 hour ago, SLVRBAKSLPZ said:

I used the fuel sender value I found on HERE

I really didnt want to pull the sender out at the time. I'm curious to see your readings

 

On a side note you may need the Haltech GPS module to clock the speed correct for the IC-7. The speedo signal goes to the OEM cluster before the ECU which makes it a pain to get the speed correct.

And annoyingly, the IQ3 dash GPS is not available on the Haltech CAN, so you end up needing 2 GPS receivers :/

Tobz Community Regular

Tobz

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1 hour ago, SLVRBAKSLPZ said:

I have my IC-7 installed and I can confirm the interior lighting works w/o original dash

The IC-7 can display the battery voltage/set alarms so there's no need to wire for the light

I have an R34, may be different?

And i think the battery light is wired in as an exciter for the alternator? Without it the alternator may not be charging your battery properly?

Tobz Community Regular

Tobz

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2 hours ago, SLVRBAKSLPZ said:

I used the fuel sender value I found on HERE

I really didnt want to pull the sender out at the time. I'm curious to see your readings

 

On a side note you may need the Haltech GPS module to clock the speed correct for the IC-7. The speedo signal goes to the OEM cluster before the ECU which makes it a pain to get the speed correct.

On my car we took the speed sensor wires from the Gearbox and then and spliced them into the wires going to the ecu, so we bypassed the dash. 

Tobz Community Regular

Tobz

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Posted

Sorry just to confirm i used a GPS speed app on my phone to work out what 60kph is.

Then in the haltech ecu I went to the speed sensor page and hit the calibrate button when i was doing a constant 60kph according to the gps app.

Once that was done it was all calibrated and perfect :)

SLVRBAKSLPZ Collaborator

SLVRBAKSLPZ

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1 minute ago, Tobz said:

Just needed to calibrate it, which was pretty easy, got my phone out, did a constant 60kph on a straight road, hit the calibrate button, and now its perfect

Copy. So just the signal to the proper pin (53 on R33) at the ECU then ground (any ground)? Does the R34 VSS go to the dash first like the R33?

 

I may try this and see what happens. I really didn't want to GPS module for the possibility of it dropping out.

Tobz Community Regular

Tobz

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1 minute ago, SLVRBAKSLPZ said:

Copy. So just the signal to the proper pin (53 on R33) at the ECU then ground (any ground)? Does the R34 VSS go to the dash first like the R33?

R34 GTT went to to the dash first. There are two sensor wires that leave the gearbox near the front cross member on the driver side. I cut those, then wired in some new wires, went up through the gearbox shifter and routed them to the ECU. There are two wires, they are non polarised so it doesnt matter which way they are wired. There is no ground.

Tobz Community Regular

Tobz

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, SLVRBAKSLPZ said:

I have my IC-7 installed and I can confirm the interior lighting works w/o original dash

Also sorry my interior light still works, but doesnt automatically turn on when u open the door. i think it ran off the door open light on the dash

SLVRBAKSLPZ Collaborator

SLVRBAKSLPZ

Posted
Posted
6 minutes ago, Tobz said:

R34 GTT went to to the dash first. There are two sensor wires that leave the gearbox near the front cross member on the driver side. I cut those, then wired in some new wires, went up through the gearbox shifter and routed them to the ECU. There are two wires, they are non polarised so it doesnt matter which way they are wired. There is no ground.

Ok. I will try to mess with this over the weekend. I will still install the GPS just in case I have troubles.

So re-wire directly to the ECU, one wire to VSS pin 53 and one to 12v power on the ECU

Tobz Community Regular

Tobz

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, SLVRBAKSLPZ said:

Ok. I will try to mess with this over the weekend. I will still install the GPS just in case I have troubles.

So re-wire directly to the ECU, one wire to VSS pin 53 and one to 12v power on the ECU

there should be two pins for the speed sensor on the ECU..... 

SLVRBAKSLPZ Collaborator

SLVRBAKSLPZ

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, Tobz said:

there should be two pins for the speed sensor on the ECU..... 

OK for the R33, 7 is the Tacho speed signal and 53 is the vehicle speed sensor. is the tac signal the 2nd pin? that the only other pin  i assume get spliced

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