Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all I’ve recently decided to install a catch can and want to know if the setup I marked in the picture below is correct. So pretty much you just “bridge” the catch can between hose that goes from pre turbo pipe to the rocker cover? 

Which catch can is also better - the baffled ones without the little air filter on top of it or the ones with the little air filter on top of it?

is a three port catch can really necessary? Because all it does is keep the oil out of the little hose that goes between both rocker covers? If i do go three port, is the setup marked on the pic correct?

finally, does anybody know the size of the rb25det rocker cover breather hose fitting in case I need to change the fitting on the catch can to match the rocker cover fitting. Thanks 

CE3B9D41-45D0-4ADF-B82B-50A93FF4BA9F.jpeg

74BB0626-4FEA-4DF9-896F-B57DF6B21F74.jpeg

3 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

The first question is what is the function of your catch can and then the rest will follow.

But catch cans should not vent to atmosphere, should be baffled and at least 2L

Function is I want to keep oil out of my intake and intercooler piping!

So why isnt it good for them to be vented to atmosphere? All I can think about is that will be decrease pressure and cause a vacuum leak.

also by 2L do you mean a 2L catch can container? Does it really matter how much volume the catch can could hold, besides having to drain the oil less frequently with bigger catch cans?Thanks

Venting a catch can to atmosphere is illegal, if that matters to you. Having it plumbed back into the intake, the vacuum helps the catch can work better. 

Venting a can to atmosphere won't cause a vacuum leak. 

Some motorsport events require the catch can to be a minimum of 2L, I can't think of any other reason to use 2L other then more frequent changes as you said. 

^^^what he said.  You want it baffled because that will help to ensure most of the oil stays in the can rather then get recirculated through the intake. Venting to atmosphere can also result in unwanted smells in the cabin.  And it works better if not vented. If you are not going to track it and you don't have a big problem you could have smaller  than 2L but be aware that some of the products you see on ebay turn out to be ridiculously tiny when they turn up in the mail. If you don't have a major problem then you can pipe both the cam covers in one hose to the catch can.

This is my personal set up... its a non return vented to atmosphere set up, which is the cleanest possible way for your engine. All of the returns and holes have been blocked. U can get -10an press fittings from Raw Brokerage and the elbows and such anywhere like amazon.

7D1CD1A4-C5A0-444C-BD21-67B3452D80EA.jpeg

  • 2 weeks later...

Wow, that went downhill fast. I haven't been on here much but really miss the respect.

 

Anyhow, for a simple connection just run a 16mm hose off the pigtail hose that goes to your inlet. Run some wire inside the short pigtail shaped hose and you will find a restrictor. Deleting the restriction is one of the reasons people have too much oil being sucked in to their air/oil separator. On a stock turbo too much oil fumes is not a problem. Once you add a bigger turbo obviously there is more suction, therefore more oil being sucked into the inlet, separator/catch can or not. The restriction must stay in place.

Connect this new hose to the inlet of your oil/air separator. Now connect the the outlet of your oil/air separator to the intake. Done. Hardest part is finding space in the engine bay. Also, notice the use of the words 'air/oil separator. Not catch tank. 

 

Yes, I know people will roast you for not doing a search but we are all here to help. As my Old Man used to say, 'not asking questions is what makes you an idiot'.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSboy, thank you again. i’ve been reading all the other SAU RB25 vacuum line threads and you have the utmost patience for people asking “where do my vacuum lines go”. it’s appreciated. i did also enlist a few other RB guys local to me.  i would like to run 5 to 4. turbo pressure side to wastegate actuator. i would like to run 3 to 1. power steering air valve line to intercooler outlet. (this is how it was previously). i was told 2 is the bleed port for the boost solenoid - which i’m not running - so should be capped.   anyone see any problems with that?    
    • So yes. All of them. Something like 98% of all fuel in the USA has 10% ethanol: https://afdc.energy.gov/fuels/ethanol-fuel-basics It's labelled as like, AKI, 87, 91, 93 with an E10 or E5 or E15 label on the pump. At a certain point, it's not just "E10" instead of 91. It is 91, 95, 98, and all of them have 10% Ethanol in them. You can also get E85 and E30 which is why you do see some people rolling around with E30 tunes in them.
    • Thanks for the response. This is an 04 EP3 Type R. JDM spec. Fairly certain they're just basic BC racing coils. I do plan to keep as the ride quality on stock I've been told is pretty meh given Sydney roads. If I were to go down that avenue, does NSW require them to be a certain spec (close to original) etc?
    • Should have asked what is the car?
    • I've had two super conflicting experiences with blue slips. My 30 year old E39 waltzed through with no issues but my brother in law was knocked back on 12 y/o 3 series due to wiper blades and some cracking in a control arm bush.  What kind of coil overs? Do you want to keep them after?  If it was me I'd get some dirt cheap shocks and springs from eBay or scumtree. Not ideal but will get you over the line and might even be less than $1k.
×
×
  • Create New...