Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

3 hours ago, jmknights93 said:

I spoke to the guy on the GTR UK forum today. I'll know by the weekend if there's some stored away but he is also happy to make a few more if required. I'll let you know how I go.

Right on mate you the man. Like I said you do the work of getting it together I’ll make it happen financially mate. Good team not bad at all. 

3 hours ago, jmknights93 said:

I spoke to the guy on the GTR UK forum today. I'll know by the weekend if there's some stored away but he is also happy to make a few more if required. I'll let you know how I go.

Right on mate you the man. Like I said you do the work of getting it together I’ll make it happen financially mate. Good team not bad at all. 

8 hours ago, MoMnDadGTR said:

Right on mate you the man. Like I said you do the work of getting it together I’ll make it happen financially mate. Good team not bad at all. 

He had one left over but said he can make some more, if you wanna send me a PM I’ll link you over to him and he can make some more up and ship directly over to you. 

15 hours ago, MoMnDadGTR said:

Just an FYI to everyone if you didn’t know, where you mount the step motor makes a big difference In how you need your gain set on your evc. Because mine is mounted so far away from the wastegates I had to crank my gain. I didn’t have this done, and This lack of knowledge caused me to spike at 32 psi last night and I chucked one of my Garrett’s.

For optimum boost control I would think you should get a Mac valve and let your Haltech  do the job (assuming its capable - my only experience is with the Link).

On 23/04/2020 at 7:21 PM, jmknights93 said:

He had one left over but said he can make some more, if you wanna send me a PM I’ll link you over to him and he can make some more up and ship directly over to you. 

hey mate just letting you know I got 4 of those mounts for the evc from josh coming, he said they will be ready in 2 weeks...pm me your address and I will send one your way for the efforts.  I will have 2 left im selling them for josh from gtr.uk(great guy), so let me know if your guys want one of these 75 aussy dollars shipped. that's what I paid per unit had to get a few to make it worth his time.

4 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

I bought a spare ashtray, cut a hole in the back of it and mounted the Profec inside. Close the ashtray lid and you'd never know it was there. Flip it down and the boost controller is right there. Best of both worlds.

I was trying to do this with my ash tray, but as its an evc 6 it doesn't fit well. something I did notice if I take the front cover off the ash tray the rest of it works as good backing for the controller. ended up buying a shit load of evc6 mounts off josh from gtruk. he also making me a custom centre vent mount for my hks gauges. will post when hes done im sure its gunna look nice he does great work. will be on build thread. I blew up one of my turbos so doing a bunch of work to the car right now.

On 4/28/2020 at 3:25 PM, GTSBoy said:

I bought a spare ashtray, cut a hole in the back of it and mounted the Profec inside. Close the ashtray lid and you'd never know it was there. Flip it down and the boost controller is right there. Best of both worlds.

Yeah, that's where my 4wd controller sits.

du lock makes a nice harness extension for the heat controls on a r32 gtr to move them to the glovebox making some nice space for gauges and controllers. 

https://www.nengun.com/do-luck/air-conditioning-switch-harness-kit

im going this route on the next gtr nice and clean and how often do you ever use the heat controls.

 

not really relevant to anything going on here but I guess that's alright.. I have a haltech and would never run that thing, i think its hideous lol....but than again im tuning with an evc and I have a haltec strictly because I think the evc looks cool so what the hell do I know haha....

haha fair call. Thought it might be a neater solution then moving the heater controls and installing gauges. 

You can display anything you want on the dash and have multiple displays to cycle through etc

Do you think the display itself is hideous? or the layout on the display? If its the latter you can change the colours to anything you want and there are different types of display layouts as well. 

ahh I gotta eat my foot here mate Im just thinking close minded. I always have liked the r32 gauges and wouldn't ever cover them personally. how ever defintily a good option for custom setup. I don't know if anything about it is that bad just love the old school gauges. when the night falls and the gauges are lit going down the road cruising im in my happy place. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lets say I wanted to buy this, specifically for this purpose. How do I actually perform the function. Can I still buy a Consult-1? Am I about to be burned by the fact my car is a 2000 model Series 2 R34 and thus will be some stupid other system? Do I just need this -> https://obd2australia.com.au/product/nissan-consult-14-pin-to-usb-ddl-diagnostic-interface-with-ftdi-ft232r-chip/ And with what software?
    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
×
×
  • Create New...