Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Unsure if this is the right forum to post under..

I'm looking for opinions on whether I would be better to go 20de +T or put a 25 cam into it? 

My friends said 25 cam, I personally want a turbo but can't do both due to high compression? 

This probably makes no sense. (Sorry) just very confused. 

IMG_20200506_153755_408.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480604-help/
Share on other sites

17 minutes ago, JordanRochelle said:

Sorry, 25 cam shaft? 

changing the cam to any possible other cam in an RB20 is a total waste of time and effort. Turboing an RB20 is also a waste of time as the result will be disapointing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480604-help/#findComment-7933087
Share on other sites

On 15/06/2020 at 7:12 PM, Ben C34 said:

changing the cam to any possible other cam in an RB20 is a total waste of time and effort. Turboing an RB20 is also a waste of time as the result will be disapointing.

Why disappointing? I've seen plenty of 20de+t that go hard... I'm not chasing power or huge numbers. Just something fun

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480604-help/#findComment-7933577
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

They only go hard above 5000rpm. Everywhere else they suck.

This ^^^^^

Having previously owned an RB20DET with a few mods and now having a RB25DET NEO

the difference lower down in the rev range is massivley noticeable

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480604-help/#findComment-7933605
Share on other sites

Honestly...sell that rolling wreck for whatever you can get for it.  

Buy a going RB25.... if you have to.  Otherwise just about any other car will do till you get off your P's.

Reason, adding a cam is a waste of $$$, changing the motor to an RB25 makes more sense, but is a costly and ultimately futile build.  

Plus by the time you cut out the rust, redo the window seals, fix up the front end, upgrade the brakes, suspension, and other stuff, you are up for big $$$.  Buying an RB25 with all this stuff done and then setting out to improve it even more will cost much less and also  - in the end - be a better car.  Plus side of a 25 is what you take off can be resold.

The only possible reason for continuing with that RB20 is you are starting with a 'blank canvas', but its 12 months to 3 years of hard yakka getting it done.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480604-help/#findComment-7933606
Share on other sites

On 17/06/2020 at 12:48 PM, tridentt150v said:

Honestly...sell that rolling wreck for whatever you can get for it.  

Buy a going RB25.... if you have to.  Otherwise just about any other car will do till you get off your P's.

Reason, adding a cam is a waste of $$$, changing the motor to an RB25 makes more sense, but is a costly and ultimately futile build.  

Plus by the time you cut out the rust, redo the window seals, fix up the front end, upgrade the brakes, suspension, and other stuff, you are up for big $$$.  Buying an RB25 with all this stuff done and then setting out to improve it even more will cost much less and also  - in the end - be a better car.  Plus side of a 25 is what you take off can be resold.

The only possible reason for continuing with that RB20 is you are starting with a 'blank canvas', but its 12 months to 3 years of hard yakka getting it done.

I'm in NZ so don't have the issues on Ps etc.. 

I have all the parts of this body, the body is straight no rust anywhere.. I just want to keep my 20de cause I have it torn down ready for rebuild. I can get a full rebuild kit cheap asf cause my partner works in parts. Could also get a det block too but I'm just not sure. 

I don't want to put the 25 cam shaft into it, I'd rather get a det block or a +T but the boys reckon a 25 cam would be better ??‍♀️

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480604-help/#findComment-7933882
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, JordanRochelle said:

but the boys reckon a 25 cam would be better

so they think an RB25 Cam (assume you are talking inlet only, there are 2? ) in an RB20DE is better than either an RB20DE+T and an RB25DET?

thats potentially the most retarded thing I have read on here in a while. Even with the best camshafts in the world (2 of them) in an RB20DE it is still a heap of shit. even rebuilt.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480604-help/#findComment-7933886
Share on other sites

44 minutes ago, JordanRochelle said:

but the boys reckon a 25 cam would be better

And just to hit this one again....the difference between the 20 cams and the 25 cams is so small that the time, money and effort spent on the swap would be better spent buying 6" railway spikes to hammer into your own skull.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480604-help/#findComment-7933889
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, JordanRochelle said:

but the boys reckon a 25 cam would be better ??‍♀️

The boys at the local kindergarten?  Can they tell you how it is different (and I can tell you that as GTSBoy says its SFA) and what difference it will make?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480604-help/#findComment-7933914
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Good on you for resurrecting another Skyline.

Looks like a big project. If you are in for the long haul, and if I were you, I would look at getting the 20det bock, pistons turbo and build it from the bottom to top. I am not too sure that is all the differences. But do your homework and calculate what it is going to cost, then double it. A good 20det screams nicely. 

Good luck.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480604-help/#findComment-7935147
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...