Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This may be a dumb question but let's say that I buy a Skyline GT-R, probably an R32 in either the RB20DET or the RB25DET. I really want to get a feel for the car N/A before getting the power boost of a turbo. Can you take the turbo off of the engine and run it N/A? If so are there any modifications that need to be done beforehand? Thank you in advance for the answers.

  • Confused 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480818-probably-a-stupid-question-but/
Share on other sites

First off, R32/R33/R34 GTR's only come with RB26 engines as standard. Secondly these cars are so hilariously slow in standard form that "taking the turbo off" is a big waste of time. Must be school holidays again.

  • Like 3

That's a bit harsh, but I agree an unmodified skyline isn't really scary fast, no matter what you are coming from. You can control how much power it is making by just changing gears at lower revs (say, below 4000) until you feel comfortable.

And funnily enough, there are lots of threads on here about removing turbos from factory turbo cars due to various state P plater rules, the quick answer is it is neither cheap nor easy because the tune of the engine is substantially different

Oh I should add, if you just want to drive around the turbo car with no boost, you can remove one vacuum line to the blow off valve and all the boost will bleed off. But it will drive worse than non turbo car because the turbo cars came with lower compression in the first place

  • Like 1
Quote

This may be a dumb question but let's say that I buy a Skyline GT-R, probably an R32 in either the RB20DET or the RB25DET. I really want to get a feel for the car N/A before getting the power boost of a turbo. Can you take the turbo off of the engine and run it N/A? If so are there any modifications that need to be done beforehand? Thank you in advance for the answers.

You could pop the internal wastegates off; allowing the wastegate flaps to always stay open... you would not build any boost. Would be much easier to just take it easy on the gas pedal though.... And yes that is indeed a strange question and thing to want to do. 

Cheers. 

Edited by TurboTapin
3 minutes ago, Duncan said:

Oh I should add, if you just want to drive around the turbo car with no boost, you can remove one vacuum line to the blow off valve and all the boost will bleed off. But it will drive worse than non turbo car because the turbo cars came with lower compression in the first place

1myuho.jpg.8f4c93526a62f1f8a42dcee38abc1ac1.jpg

3 hours ago, TurboTapin said:

1myuho.jpg.8f4c93526a62f1f8a42dcee38abc1ac1.jpg

The BOV needs a pressure/vac source post-TB so it doesn’t crack open under boost but does open when the turbo is in boost but the intake runners are in vacuum. If you disconnect the vacuum line  for the BOV and cap the fitting on the intake it creates a substantial boost leak. Whether it’s enough to avoid leaking boost at all is hard to say.

  • Like 1
24 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

The BOV needs a pressure/vac source post-TB so it doesn’t crack open under boost but does open when the turbo is in boost but the intake runners are in vacuum. If you disconnect the vacuum line  for the BOV and cap the fitting on the intake it creates a substantial boost leak. Whether it’s enough to avoid leaking boost at all is hard to say.

Go pull your hose, drive around and let me know if "all the boost will bleed off."

Cheers. 

6 hours ago, redm0th said:

This may be a dumb question but let's say that I buy a Skyline GT-R, probably an R32 in either the RB20DET or the RB25DET. I really want to get a feel for the car N/A before getting the power boost of a turbo. Can you take the turbo off of the engine and run it N/A? If so are there any modifications that need to be done beforehand? Thank you in advance for the answers.

Yes, the modifications beforehand should be to take the turbo off, grind the compressor blades off using a Dremel, then re-install the turbo.

4 hours ago, TurboTapin said:

Go pull your hose, drive around and let me know if "all the boost will bleed off."

Cheers. 

I'm not suggesting it, it could cause issues with compressor surge because the BOV doesn't see vacuum when the throttle snaps shut, and I don't know what differential pressure is required to cause the BOV to open up significantly.

Personally I would just run wastegate pressure if "boost" is a big deal. A low compression N/A engine is nasty to drive.

it will bleed boost if the line is connected. how much? dont know.

should you do it? no

will OP get a GTR with an RB20DET and decide it needs less power? no.

 

 

 

and............... Overlooked by Duncan, understandably as the whole premise of taking boost away but leaving the turbo installed is a dumb idea that wont happen, car will run like shit as air bled off has been measured by AFM then escaped before engine. But who cares.

 

Umm, so on a standard gtr at least, removing the BOV vacuum line does prevent it making boost, a BOV wouldn't be much use if it couldn't bleed off all the boost a turbo makes. Also in the standard system it recirculates after the AFMs so it all works fine. This is how they used to limit boost in production car racing (pop off valve in the line between the manifold and the BOV which is triggered over a certain level, removes boost signal from BOV, BOV opens, fun over but car keeps driving fine just without any whoosh until the BOV reference sees pressure again).

on the other hand, I am not certain that disconnecting a wastegate actuator will prevent any boost being built either, it depends if sufficient gas can make it through the much smaller wastegate to prevent the turbine spinning.

clearly extensive testing is needed to determine best solution to OP's question.

  • Like 1

Don't you all know that it's possible to adjust how much you use the throttle? You don't have to push it all the way to the floor ;)

(speaking of that, I'm certain that most local cars are sold without one, as they have issues reaching 70 km/h in less than 2 minutes!) 

  • Like 1
22 hours ago, Super Drager said:

First off, R32/R33/R34 GTR's only come with RB26 engines as standard. Secondly these cars are so hilariously slow in standard form that "taking the turbo off" is a big waste of time. Must be school holidays again.

Okay, fair enough. What about if I wanted to get a GTS-T with an RB20DET but just take off the turbo? I'm not asking how fast it will be as speed is only important for sprinters and muh street racing. I don't do sprint, I prefer circuit or drift. How about answering the questions instead of judging the reasoning behind said question? mUsT bE sChOoL hOlIdAyS aGaIn

21 hours ago, Duncan said:

That's a bit harsh, but I agree an unmodified skyline isn't really scary fast, no matter what you are coming from. You can control how much power it is making by just changing gears at lower revs (say, below 4000) until you feel comfortable.

And funnily enough, there are lots of threads on here about removing turbos from factory turbo cars due to various state P plater rules, the quick answer is it is neither cheap nor easy because the tune of the engine is substantially different

Thank you for the advice.

15 hours ago, mlr said:

Yes, it is a stupid question 

Just recharge your Opal card instead

Unhelpful and somehow more dumb than my initial question.

15 hours ago, niZmO_Man said:

Buy R31 Skyline, plenty of power for a beginner driver.

I was thinking about maybe getting a GTS type S or M so I could get a feel of a Skyline in general and slowly upgrade over time. It is easier to find an unmolested GTS or GTS-T than it is a GT-R for obvious reasons. I prefer to stick with an R32 if possible. The one I was looking at at the moment was an HCR32.

12 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

it will bleed boost if the line is connected. how much? dont know.

should you do it? no

will OP get a GTR with an RB20DET and decide it needs less power? no.

 

 

 

and............... Overlooked by Duncan, understandably as the whole premise of taking boost away but leaving the turbo installed is a dumb idea that wont happen, car will run like shit as air bled off has been measured by AFM then escaped before engine. But who cares.

 

Thank you for giving some actual advice to the problems that can arise from doing this. Can you shed some more light on it or link some reading on the topic?

11 hours ago, mlr said:

Needs more NOS

fAsT aNd tHe FuRiOuS le may may

8 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

Thread made me retarded

Pretty sure that was your mom and her alcoholism in utero.

4 hours ago, K_arlstrom said:

Don't you all know that it's possible to adjust how much you use the throttle? You don't have to push it all the way to the floor ;)

(speaking of that, I'm certain that most local cars are sold without one, as they have issues reaching 70 km/h in less than 2 minutes!) 

So there is a reason I worded my post in the way that I did. I am wanting to know this because I am planning on getting a Skyline as a daily driver. Yes it is possible, because the Skyline is just a car. A car with a particularly sturdy engine. I believe most people have so many problems with Skylines because they want to molest the shit out of them and are to asinine to just drive a naturally aspirated or even in the case of a GT-R, just driving it as stock as possible minus upgrading for manufacturer defects in engine design such as the oil pan problem.

Extra boost is extra pressure, extra heat, and more wear and tear on not only the transmission but the internals. We're talking about a 25-30 year old vehicle. Also I love how everyone in this thread apparently is le master racer yet they can't understand getting to know the feel of a vehicle and how it handles naturally aspirated, how it handles weight distribution, turning radius, how it takes corners, etc. Why would I want to learn all this with a shit ton of power initially? That is just adding extra wear and tear on the internals when I know I won't be going balls out on it for a while. For instance, before I would even THINK about putting a lot of stress on an pre-95 RB engine I would be upgrading the spark/coilpack/ignition system (probably the platinum racing R35 conversion kit) given the arc problems the packs tend to come with leading to terrible misfires at high RPMs. Something that gets exacerbated with a f**king turbo being added.

While I don't know a lot about Skyline in particular as they have been illegal to have in the States doesn't mean I don't know cars in general. Some car manufacturers, Japanese and German specifically, are very finicky when it comes to removing stock turbos or super chargers. They aren't just bolt in, bolt out. So that is why I posted this. Jesus f**king Christ the amount of whining in a thread that you didn't even have to post in.

To those of you who kind of tried to give a decent answer, thank you. To those of you who decided to stick your finger in your ass and smear your phone screen with it as a response: You're cancer and no matter how high your post count no one is ever going to actually like you.

in b4 trolls bandwagon and pile on because they know I'm right

 

If you would like to post some helpful reading material and links please feel free to do so so I can get some actual advice.

 

 

1585208317026.jpg

Edited by redm0th
  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Seat of the pants assessment of the new intake: The car is way less "doughy" when hitting the loud pedal, especially off idle when stopped or in traffic, I did use a cheapo lazer thermal thingo to measure the temp around where the pod filter got its air, it was between 55 - 60°C, in saying this the car was shut off and not moving, so the OEM intake pipe was not supplying any fresh air to where the pod was when the car was at least moving A weird bonus was induction noise on the throttle in the cabin increased a bit,  I was worried that I was actually going to lose some of that induction noise I love so much, outside though, when I got the daughter to do a WOT drive by pass for me, the induction noise has increased alot when on the throttle, not quite ITB doort, but well up there I'm extremely happy with the results and have been exploring the country roads in the region  As for house mods: 1.New front fence is up and is awesome, it really upgraded how the joint looks from the street, and the added security is nice 2. Electricians have replace some interior lights, and with more lighting in the garage, a few new motion detecting lights out the front above the garage, front room, and at the front door, which I have already found heaps helpful coming and going, also now has fancy pants CCTV all round the house The only hold point for power though is the solar and batteries due to supply issues, although this will happen over the next few weeks 3. I have done a heap of landscaping out the front and I'm almost ready to do a new small retaining wall with some nice blocks to replace the brick and cemented in rocks around the raised garden beds cemented in river stone "was the fashion at the time" the house was built. I currently have a pallet of retaining wall blocks and 2 bulka bags of 20mm blue metal to replace the wood chip that is in the raised garden beds around the house 4. I now have 3 big raised garden beds for out the back to grow some vegetables, about 70cm high, 200cm long and 100cm wide 5. My 2 compost bins are already pretty full with brown, green and kitchen waste from the landscaping I'vedone so far, but they will probably take a few months to break down, so anything else that gets chopped, trimmed, and kitchen waste will just start filling the base of the raised garden beds to about 30cm before I start throwing 40cm of good compost, and stuff, for the vegetables to grow in, I'll need a few ton of compost and soil, but the local supplier can sent me bulka bags of the stuff Basically the logs, wood chips and a few strategically placed rocks for drainage, will give the beds some good organic materials down low to break down over time, and they will hold moisture during the warmer months to save the water in my big arse water tank if we don't get alot of rain So, all in all, the car and house mods are going well, and I'm really enjoying being retired, I sleep in too 0700 and slowly plod around inside until I feel like actually doing anything, and only work in the yard for as long as want, which has actually been alot over the last few weeks,  although when you look at it, it seems that not a huge amount of work has been done,  until I look at the before I started the work pics Happy days and good times indeed 
    • hahaha yeah. Plan is to get side skirts and probably just rear pods. But going to do them one-by-one. I've got a set that I really like from RHDJapen, but that one isn't shipped to AU. So need to find someone who can get it for me
    • Here's an idea, answer the questions I asked you as they are trying to work out WHY the LSD will be binding up in a straight line.
    • You haven't driven many modern cars then have you? Most of them have sfa steering feel with their stupid electric bullshit steering systems.
×
×
  • Create New...