Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys, a friend of mine is telling me Motorcraft part number agsp22ye11 for XR6t is a compatible fit for an RB25DET. I've searched and funnily enough in a different thread someone mentions the very same plug but never really went into detail. Subsequent Google searches led me to endless loops of equivalent plugs ? but not much else..

At $40 for a set of 6 iridiums is a steal. Otherwise, the trusty BCP6RE stays. Would be nice to do plugs less frequently though. Thoughts?

Edited by trel
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480860-another-spark-plug-thread-%3F/
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, trel said:

Guys, a friend of mine is telling me Motorcraft part number agsp22ye11 for XR6t is a compatible fit for an RB25DET. I've searched and funnily enough in a different thread someone mentions the very same plug but never really went into detail. Subsequent Google searches led me to endless loops of equivalent plugs ? but not much else..

At $40 for a set of 6 iridiums is a steal. Otherwise, the trusty BCP6RE stays. Would be nice to do plugs less frequently though. Thoughts?

 

The reason everyone uses copper plugs in RB25's is because the Iridiums and Platinums don't last as long as they are quoted in a modified engine. So you would still have to do frequent plug changes - you will just pay more for them.

Mixed review about those plugs, I've had first hand experience, I would say do not go there.

I know of a workshop that raves about them, so I gave it a go...

They work fine for moderate boost, then I started to wind in the boost on when I decided to tune my car on the dyno and it started to misfire. Initially thought it was the R35 coils, so rammed in about 4ms of dwell and I kept adding till about 4.2ms with 1.3bar of boost (18psi for those who think Fahrenheit is a useful UOM).

I felt a bit defeated with tuning then, Alex (owner of Birrong Automotive) came over with a box of NGK BCPR7ES and said throw those junk plugs out. I gapped the BCPR7ES at 0.6mm and popped them in and surprise surprise no misfire, I ended up dropping the dwell down to 3.0ms and kept adding boost and peaked at 2.1bar of boost, bleeding down to 1.8bar.

Moral of the story, don't bother with them.

  • Like 1

Thanks for that input fellas. My setup is very mIld. 15psi, Nistune, Splitfires, yada yada... My gap is on 1.1 with BCPR6ES-11 plugs always come out looking OK. I guess this is a case of "if it ain't broke, don't fix".

Edited by trel

plug gap and heat range are completely different and unrelated.

13 minutes ago, TXSquirrel said:

Wow you ran 6 with 1.1?  I think that's a bit much even at 15psi...  I'm surprised you're not getting knocks...  I would have suggested at least 7 if you are running 1.1, but preferably 0.9.  

28 minutes ago, TXSquirrel said:

Wow you ran 6 with 1.1?  I think that's a bit much even at 15psi...  I'm surprised you're not getting knocks...  I would have suggested at least 7 if you are running 1.1

Spark plug gap has no correlation to knock, you can't just reduce the spark plug gap and miraculously increased your knock threshold.

 

Nothing wrong with my setup. Ran like this for years almost daily driven. It's all in the tune and being sensible. It's also being anal like I am when it comes to maintenance on the car and not fiddling with things that shouldn't be touched.

Edited by trel

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
×
×
  • Create New...