Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just putting it out there, interested in hearing peoples thoughts on this. 
For a GTR with where they are going and with ‘purity’ possibly becoming more important nowadays. 
would you prefer a 26 based bottom end or a 30 based bottom end?  
and why? 
purely for discussion, let’s not go to war over this! Lol 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481613-rb26-or-rb30/
Share on other sites

For a motor that will feel better everywhere in all usage models, a 30. Every time. The only way that it is let down compared to a 26 is that elastic need for revs and the extra little buzz you get from running to 11ty rpm. But I'd rather more torque and power everywhere.

Put the 26 block in the shed for later purity restoration.

Although....in a 32, I am against the shitty mods you have to do to squeeze a 30 into the engine bay.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481613-rb26-or-rb30/#findComment-7944070
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Stixbnr32 said:

Yeah if i was to do my build again id still go 26 block in my R32 but id prob go a nitto 2.8 stroker.

Everything fits under the bonnet and you get a decent bump inpower/torque.

I would also use a PRP brace.

THIS. I kinda regret doing a 3.2 mainly due to fitmet issues. I just hate chopping shit up, but thats just me. I'm sure when mines running it will be well worth it, but if i was to do it all again, I'd def do a high revving 500kw 2.8.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481613-rb26-or-rb30/#findComment-7944129
Share on other sites

Cheers for the responses, looks like a 26 based bottom end wins the popular vote. 
To ‘let the cat out the bag’ I’ve been considering building a bottom end and was undecided which way to go. 
My car is currently fitted with a 30 bottom end. 
anyway, the opportunity has come up to purchase a JHH built 2.7 motor, built in an N1 block with their Raceport head package. 
My reservations are, my current setup is so good, torque everywhere, good response and fast enough for me, but this set up isn’t where I’m going with the build. I want a 26 block, but I’m nervous I won’t like it compared to what I currently have. 
the struggle is real! Lol 

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481613-rb26-or-rb30/#findComment-7944133
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Predator1 said:

If you already have a 30, then stick with it. 2.7 will see a noticeable amount of lag, plus you might need a smaller turbo.

Depends on what you really want at the end of the day. How much power does your 30 make atm?

Car make 440kw on 98 @ 20psi 

and 580kw on E85 @ 32 psi 

Obviously the powerband will move up the rpm range in the 2.7, but the 2.7 will happily Rev to 9500rpm and the 3.0 is restricted to lower rpm. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481613-rb26-or-rb30/#findComment-7944137
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

I dunno man. You've already done what's needed to put a 30 based engine in. The damage is done, the pipework is set up.

At your power level you're really going to feel the difference if you drop 10% capacity.

That’s where I’m stuck, the 30 is in and is a great motor. Was built well, but a part of me really wants a 26. 
then on top of that, I’m nervous I’m going to be disappointed. 
AND at some point, I will be going back to a 26 block, just this opportunity has come up now and I was hoping to enjoy the current set up for a few years first. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481613-rb26-or-rb30/#findComment-7944162
Share on other sites

23 hours ago, Predator1 said:

THIS. I kinda regret doing a 3.2 mainly due to fitmet issues. I just hate chopping shit up, but thats just me. I'm sure when mines running it will be well worth it, but if i was to do it all again, I'd def do a high revving 500kw 2.8.

This is me, if I was building a motor, then I would build a 2.7/8. The 30 was in it when I bought the car, but it’s proven to be a very good motor. So now a part of me says stuck with what you got, you know it’s good, it’s set up and it works, and the other part says, build it how you want. 
Now it seems from the responses here that most, if building from scratch, would go with a 2.7-2.8 over a 3.0/2 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481613-rb26-or-rb30/#findComment-7944181
Share on other sites

The torque of the RB30 is real. My mates 32R makes 440~awkw @ only 18psi with no timing, and that thing had virtually no lag. Even going uphill, that thing would just haul from any gear/revs. In contrast, a 2.6 or 2.7 or eve a 2.8 would see considerable lag before it starts to boogey. IMHO, stick with what you have, and enjoy life.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481613-rb26-or-rb30/#findComment-7944182
Share on other sites

Another thing, guys who have gone from a standard crank to a billet crank, how much difference does it make? I’ve read that the billet Rev much smoother/quicker and feel very sharp on the throttle? 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481613-rb26-or-rb30/#findComment-7944183
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, Predator1 said:

The torque of the RB30 is real. My mates 32R makes 440~awkw @ only 18psi with no timing, and that thing had virtually no lag. Even going uphill, that thing would just haul from any gear/revs. In contrast, a 2.6 or 2.7 or eve a 2.8 would see considerable lag before it starts to boogey. IMHO, stick with what you have, and enjoy life.

Yeah I hear you, this is my car now, even with the 68/70, it’s on when you roll the throttle, rpm doesn’t really matter. As a street car, it’s probably as good as you’d want, but because I’m a little weird I think ‘As a GTR’ where do I want it? 
shouldnt a GTR have lag, isn’t that part of the driving experience, lol
If I do this, it won’t be one engine out and one in, it will be engine bay respray, blast and coat subframe, replace bonnet, re wire engine bay. I will bring the bay up to a standard I want it. It presents well now, but It’s no where near finished to a level I’m happy with. 
But thanks for the the input, I appreciate peoples opinions on this, helps to give perspective and give me an idea what to expect if I move forward with this. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481613-rb26-or-rb30/#findComment-7944184
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good tips, will get on those tomorrow. When doing the maintenance I did move a few of those connectors around, and things that are old tend to not like moving around. (Like me).
    • Don't try it. It will be shit. Better chance of damaging the engine than gaining any knowledge about the old one. Maybe, but unlikely, especially if the O2 sensor is working. You can use NissDataScan to look at the stock ECU.   Cleaning the AFM is seldom necessary and seldom helps. The R35 coil & loom conversion should eliminate dud coils or plugs. But as you still have misses - look to the plug where the coil loom connects to the engine loom, and the CAS plug. Need quality connections there. Also look to injector plugs. And the AFM plug while you're at it. Also look to whether your injectors are clean and flowing evenly. Get them out and onto a testbench.
    • Good to know, I feel like I am in for a rollercoaster ride that looks like a sine wave. 
    • You'll fit right in. Acceptance is the first step.
    • Hey folks. I've been lurking and browsing the forum for a while, since I got into my head that I wanted a skyline. Having purchased an overpriced completely stock GTT, (only "mods" it has is HKS pod filter and catback) now that it became legal in the US, it was all glorious and sututu noises here and there. But then I wanted to do things right and went to do basic maintenance. After all the fluids, filters done, I did the spark plugs, that's when the problems started.. First the car started spluttering at around 4.5k RPM. Which I gapped down the new plugs and that solved the sputter there, but the car now always misfires at idle with pops when lifting off and shifting 2nd to 3rd. Similar to the issues in this recent thread. I've been banging my head against the wall, reading the threads here and trying suggestions for a couple months now, so decided to start this one to explain exactly what I tried and what is going on. The symptoms of the issue: Idle and low revs misfiring intermittently. You can hear the exhaust tone change and the shakes on the shifter knob. It happens frequently, but doesn't seem to have a rhythm to it. Pops when backing off throttle. It pops and or burbles almost feels like it spits fire when it pops. (Happens mostly in 3rd gear at around 2k RPM). When under load and after 6k RPM, it also pops when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. There's a ticking noise at around 2k RPM in 2nd gear going downhill, seems unrelated though but I am out of educated and downright dumb guesses. Not noticeable lack of power when putting the car into load. The attempted diagnosis and solutions: Unplugging coils when the car is running This did nothing to change the idling and tone shift for every cylinder. Checking the exhaust headers with thermometer They all are within what I'd say it is margin of error of the laser thermometer New spark plugs Tossed two new sets, copper, iridium and using the old ones, still misfiring, even re gapped to 0.8mm, still same thing. MAF cleaned with the "specific" spray cleaner No changes in the issues what so ever. Brand new loom and r35 coil conversion (was going to add the r35 coils anyway) car runs arguably better, still misfires, but seems like does less frequently. Placebo? Code 21 now being thrown, thanks nissan gods. Removed the CAS to check the shaft for play or anything. CAS seems all fine, nothing that indicates any issue, visually speaking. Things to attempted next: Ordered a new MAF (chinesium from Amazon, to be able to return regardless of result). Fuel with proper gas, maybe it is this California water that they sell as gas that is to blame? Plugin the link ECU and check the info using the built in base map. Go back to BMW and eat my rob bearing breakfast without milky oil mixture.   Do any of you have experienced anything like this or have any suggestion?
×
×
  • Create New...