Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

32 minutes ago, Mick_o said:

$1570 is a rort. I wouldn't pay that for that heap of shit.

Whoever "some guy" is is a knob lol. I'd go Nistune over Halal all day.

If you want the best its Motec or Emtron really. 

 

29 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

which donkey told you this?

 

I’m just getting mixed messages all around. Why exactly is haltech plat pro a heap of shit if it’s very popular and many people can vouch for it and use and why does JEM (reputable tuner of skylines) recommend it?

One random guy at skyline spares told me today(not the owner). Told me he has a 1500hp and 1000hp gtr. He highly advised against getting the nistune and encouraged me to get the plat pro cause he says it’s the best. Said nistune would limit my power to 300kwish

@Dose Pipe Sutututu how much for a 600x300x76 plazmaman intercooler for? Do you know erks he is a welder at plazmaman

Edited by IM-32-FK
1 hour ago, IM-32-FK said:

to get the plat pro cause he says it’s the best.

Can you stop using the term "the best" as it's completely irrelevant. You need something at a minimum that can tune your ignition and fuel maps properly, which is nearly any ecu really.

The "best" ECU is really just the wide variety of capabilities that the ECU in question can do, which for a long time has been MoTeC. New Haltech Nexus is shaping up to be a game changer, but this is so over the top for what you need we won't go there.

When you start talking flex, minimum requirement for you is going to be a Nistune, Platinum Pro or a Link G4.

If you can stretch, the Haltech Elite will be more than you will ever require.

 

I have been using the Wolf ecu for the past 6 and a half years without any problems my car is currently tuned at 473hp and it get rid of the air flow meter Australian owned and produced with good backup and lifetime warranty on ecu go to a good tuner and your probs are gone

1 hour ago, BK said:

Can you stop using the term "the best" as it's completely irrelevant. You need something at a minimum that can tune your ignition and fuel maps properly, which is nearly any ecu really.

The "best" ECU is really just the wide variety of capabilities that the ECU in question can do, which for a long time has been MoTeC. New Haltech Nexus is shaping up to be a game changer, but this is so over the top for what you need we won't go there.

When you start talking flex, minimum requirement for you is going to be a Nistune, Platinum Pro or a Link G4.

If you can stretch, the Haltech Elite will be more than you will ever require.

 

I’m just a bit confused that’s all. Nistune seems to be the cheapest option right now, with my setup I’m going for, is it more than enough? Either 650 +200 for afm for nistune or $1570 for haltech pro. Also I heard some power fc is L Jetro edition , how can I check if mine is that?

19 minutes ago, BK said:

Power FC L jetro - AFM only, which is the most common version.

Power FC D jetro - MAP sensor only

Oh shit I got mixed up, so the D version is the rare one with ign cut and mafless? Does it allow e85 flex as well?

19 minutes ago, IM-32-FK said:

Oh shit I got mixed up, so the D version is the rare one with ign cut and mafless? Does it allow e85 flex as well?

No flex on any. L or D jetro version also does not have ignition cut either, both fuel cut. The Power FC PRO had the ignition cut and launch control, which was a modified version of the L jetro. I have had all three versions on my blue GTR.

Remember you can't Nistune a 33 ECU either.

Man up and get an Elite 2000 or 2500 👍

  • Like 1
38 minutes ago, BK said:

No flex on any. L or D jetro version also does not have ignition cut either, both fuel cut. The Power FC PRO had the ignition cut and launch control, which was a modified version of the L jetro. I have had all three versions on my blue GTR.

Remember you can't Nistune a 33 ECU either.

Man up and get an Elite 2000 or 2500 👍

Costs too much money, way out of my budget. I found a nistune for $400 I’ll probably just go with that. It’s just that since I can’t go mafless I’m a bit worried about the length of the turbo intake piping. It’s gonna need to be shorter and I’m gonna have to use a tiny pod filter like I am now(it’s hitting the coolant reservoir). This may sound stupid but can you take the maf sensor off the z32 and weld it into the turbo intake piping so you don’t need to use the maf housing? This way I got more alloy piping and a bigger pod filter

Edited by IM-32-FK

Get a R35 card AFM and weld it post intercooler (cold side).

Means you can run any length intake pipe and pod combination without any issues to air flow reading.

Also means you can run a whoosh valve without the car stalling.

9 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Get a R35 card AFM and weld it post intercooler (cold side).

Means you can run any length intake pipe and pod combination without any issues to air flow reading.

Also means you can run a whoosh valve without the car stalling.

What the hell is a whoosh valve my man?😂 I deleted the bov and the bov piping and put a blanking plate on the j pipe so it’s dose piping sututututu right now on my apexi alloy intake pipe. Also I can’t imagine a 35 afm being cheap, how much is it? But do u know if I can remove the z32 afm sensor, delete the housing and weld it onto the intake piping? Kinda like this(this is a hpxn1 maf sensor after market)

393C40A3-2BA0-4F7E-8146-AA038AD3A30E.jpeg

Edited by IM-32-FK
11 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

If your happy to pay $1500 for a platinum pro, you can have mine. I'll even install it and tune it free of charge! (Provided you have a wideband sensor, can't tune without it)

Are u in Sydney?

Right this second, yes. But currently living in outback nsw. 

I'm serious though, happy to drive to you, install the platinum pro and tune it for $1,500.

And if your keen, I can explain the entire tuning process. The whole teach a man to fish thing. 

9 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

If your happy to pay $1500 for a platinum pro, you can have mine. I'll even install it and tune it free of charge! (Provided you have a wideband sensor, can't tune without it)

Bargain!

I wouldn't even get out of bed to supply, fit & tune any ECU for $1500.

 

10 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

f your happy to pay $1500 for a platinum pro, you can have mine. I'll even install it and tune it free of charge! (Provided you have a wideband sensor, can't tune without it)

Real question is will it make bangs and flames.

 

27 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I wouldn't even get out of bed to supply, fit & tune any ECU for $1500.

 

you would do it in bed?

 

The only real criticism I can think of regarding Nistune is that the ECU inherently expects proper matching between the fuel injector and AFM. If your fuel injectors are massive relative to what your AFM will provide then you will run into problems. You are also limited to the stock CAS signal format for signaling so crank triggers aren't going to work unless someone releases a 180 tooth crank trigger with digital trigger output. It's just a very different way of thinking that most tuners are not used to, everyone in the aftermarket tuning ECUs is used to speed density and alpha-N tuning. Anything that doesn't fit in that box is going to get dumped on to some extent as a result. The ECU is also really only made to do what it does stock in terms of I/O and not much else, although the Feature Pack stuff does add more neat goodies.

  • Like 1
13 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Right this second, yes. But currently living in outback nsw. 

I'm serious though, happy to drive to you, install the platinum pro and tune it for $1,500.

And if your keen, I can explain the entire tuning process. The whole teach a man to fish thing. 

Oh yeah, how long are you in Sydney for? Also have u got the wide band, intake temp sensor, pigtail etc?

and how many days will it all take you reckon?

maybe we can work something out where I can leave my car with you and u can install everything like turbo, walbro, injectors etc. I still need to v band the dump pipe and get pipe made or the turbo elbow part and a turbo intake pipe made

Edited by IM-32-FK

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...