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I picked up my diff today. Both their shop manager and machinist wanted to have a chat prior to me leaving. Conversation started with "Where did you buy these garbage parts? What's the name of the company?" They actually went on Speedtek's website during our conversation and made what I think is the best gear head joke I've ever heard after seeing they make straight cut gears.

"They've probably only gotten away with selling straight cut gears as they'll make noise whether they're properly machined or not. People are none the wiser" The humor made the 2500$ in the hole I'm in after this whole experience a little better lol. They also pointed out that not only did they find identical issues on both ring and pinions that Speedtek had sent, but that by eye you can see the pinion teeth do not have the same profile from one end to the other. 

They went on about this being the worst diff job they've ever done and how it was a colossal waist of time. Luckily after mentioning how I purchased another diff to learn how to assemble them, they were nice enough to give me a crash course on diff assembly on another diff they were currently doing. I like to tell myself they did this to be nice but deep down, I know it's to be extra certain they'll never see me there again lol. 

Speedtek was pushing for a store credit but I'll never feel confident purchasing from them again due to their third world machining techniques and QC. I just asked for a full monetary refund. 

I'll pop the diff back in this Friday and take it for a spin if the streets are clear of snow. 

Edited by TurboTapin
  • Like 3

What a major headfk!

I was looking into a Speedtek gearset, after reading your experiences & you pointing out PRP removed them from their website, it's pretty evident to avoid them with the longest pole possible.

9 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

What a major headfk!

I was looking into a Speedtek gearset, after reading your experiences & you pointing out PRP removed them from their website, it's pretty evident to avoid them with the longest pole possible.

You should google "Alex Kantarovski speedtek" and it will lead you down another rabbit hole, with many posts on SAU alone. Alex is the owner of Speedtek.

Someone even went out of their way to create a wordpress site about it. alexkantarovski – Alex K the rip off king (wordpress.com)

  • Haha 1

Great news, diff is on and works well. Doesn't sound like a meat grinder anymore. Going to a 4.08 from a 3.3 wasn't ideal but good enough for now and I'm happy.

Semi bad news, having some DBW issues (P2135). I checked all my connectors, tried adding more filtering, damping, etc. with no luck. I got this error once last year and then it disappeared. I had presumed it had been resolved with a firmware update but I'm not so sure anymore. Either way, I have been seeing some slight voltage drop on my other sensors when fiddling with the pedal. My 5VDC and ground wasn't originally done the greatest (I share both with other sensors). I decided to pull the harness and run shielded wire for my TPS and direct 5VDC and ground wires back to the ecu.

I was already planning on pulling the harness at some point to remove the R32 OEM ECU plug & Elite 2500 adapter harness and just wire it directly to the ecu to help get rid of unneeded junk. It also takes up a lot of space. With more snow on the way, now's the time to get this done. 

 

IMG_20240322_213620.thumb.jpg.5cf3b907aecc89dd34e40a8a2bd287b5.jpg

Edited by TurboTapin
  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...

Harness is back in the car. Besides removing the Haltech adapter harness and running new shielded cables for my DBW pedal, I also recrimped and soldered all the DBW pedal connector pins. I found another bad crimp on one of the TPS wires. This is the second bad crimp I find on this connector and the most likely cause of my DBW P2135. 

While the harness was out, I also segregated all chassis and signal grounds. Nissan bonded both with one wire from the intake manifold chassis ground ring terminal that went back to the signal portion of the ground splitter near the ECU. I'm presuming they did this due to the use of one wire sensors (Ex. Knock sensors). 

I'll get the car on the dyno hopefully within the next 2-3 weeks. I need to find a day I can take off work that aligns with the dyno's availabilities. 

I'd like to also add that Speedtek has yet to respond to my request for a refund.

 

Edited by TurboTapin
  • Like 1
On 03/04/2024 at 12:55 AM, TurboTapin said:

like to also add that Speedtek has yet to respond to my request for a refund.

What a prick, the more you look, the worse it gets.

  • Haha 1

I had a mate who was looking at one of their new sequentials they were going to make and when he told me the price my response was “if it sounds to good to be true then it probably is.” Sounds like that’s exactly what it is 

  • Sad 1

@TurboTapin I am running a very similar setup to you. I have a CD009 with a Haltech 2500 and iC7. Did you ever figure out a way to get the gear input from the transmission? My r32 gtst does not have abs to pull that data from and I am using a Cusco 4.56 2 way diff not a z diff.

1 hour ago, Tillis3 said:

@TurboTapin I am running a very similar setup to you. I have a CD009 with a Haltech 2500 and iC7. Did you ever figure out a way to get the gear input from the transmission? My r32 gtst does not have abs to pull that data from and I am using a Cusco 4.56 2 way diff not a z diff.

I run Haltech GPS speed.

1 hour ago, TurboTapin said:

Yes, everything works as normal. 

I forgot to mention, gear position on the IC7 is a calculation based on engine rpm, vehicle speed and gear ratios you have setup in your ecu. 

4 hours ago, TurboTapin said:

I forgot to mention, gear position on the IC7 is a calculation based on engine rpm, vehicle speed and gear ratios you have setup in your ecu. 

Interesting. My tuner was telling me that I should not do this when I previously understood that to be an option. Sounds like everything works well for you.

Is the information to set this up available through haltech's website or on the IC-7 dashboard software?

43 minutes ago, Tillis3 said:

Interesting. My tuner was telling me that I should not do this when I previously understood that to be an option. Sounds like everything works well for you.

Is the information to set this up available through haltech's website or on the IC-7 dashboard software?

Gear detection can only be done by either the use of a load/position sensor which you generally will not find on H pattern manual gear boxes or calculated from the gear ratio. As we're not running sequential or auto boxes, there are no other options. What exactly did your tuner tell you not to do? 

Once you have speed and rpm going into your ecu, all you have left to do is input the correct gear ratios in the ecu. Once you have your speed signal going in, PM me and I'll gladly help you. This is quick to setup. 

 

 

Edited by TurboTapin
3 hours ago, Tillis3 said:

previously understood that to be an option

Because it is, I have calculated gear too.

Only time it shows the wrong gear is when the clutch slips lol.

  • Haha 2

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