Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey folks, I'm in a bit of a pickle. I just bought a 33 GTR about a week ago. Fairly basic car (mods are PFC, exhaust, boost, front mount). I filled up as soon as I bought it and was driving it around for a few days and everything was good.

 

I then filled up again a couple of days later and after I got in the car there was a strong petrol smell the whole way home. I thought I might have stepped in petrol or something so I chose to ignore it. Next day, jumped in and it didn't smell that bad. Went for a drive and the smell disappeared. Then, all of the sudden the smell came back and it was strong! I checked the engine bay, no leaks. I checked under the car, no leaks. I took the boot apart to see if there was petrol or anything at all, no leaks. I'm stumped! I read up online that it could be the seals on the fuel pump but wouldn't that mean that the smell would be constant? 

 

Any advise on where to start would be greatly appreciated. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483089-car-smelling-like-petrol-r33-gtr-s2/
Share on other sites

@GTSBoy I'll have a look when I go downstairs again but even if it's removed wouldn't the smell be coming somewhere from the engine bay? I'm like 80% sure it's coming from the boot near fuel pump area. 

 

@PLYNX the tank is definitely not pressurised. I noticed that the first time I went to fill up and every time I open up the tank since it's just twisting off super easy. No pressure at all. How do I access the fuel filler neck? 

 

@Duncan Sydney. After the last comment, I'm starting to think it's the issue with the fuel filler neck. Advice on next steps? 

On 13/12/2021 at 8:13 AM, Mlads33 said:

Also @Duncan I've tried adding info to profile but keep getting EX1364 error - am I f**king something up or...?

@PranK over to you :)

 

Back in the olden days, an unleaded fuel restrictor had to be fitted into the filler neck to stop you putting leaded fuel in (even though that hasn't been available for about 20 years). Compliers would stick the restrictor in with silicone and it often wasn't fuel safe so they would degrade over time.  You can check for all of the fuel sealing issues by parking it in the sun for a few hours, then opening the filler cap. If it doesn't release some pressure you have a leak in the system which could be

Fuel cap

Filler neck seal/unleaded restrictor

Fuel neck to tank

Fuel pump lid or seal

Carbon cannister system (should seal unless engine is running)

Thanks @Duncan! I've got a big feeling it's the fuel neck to tank. When I open the fuel cap, there's like a 5 cm separation from the neck to the cap. Now, I'm not sure what it's meant to look like on R33s but it seems to me like that's meant to be flush against the cap. 

If this is the issue? Any tips on how to go about fixing it? 

On 12/13/2021 at 5:10 AM, Mlads33 said:

even if it's removed wouldn't the smell be coming somewhere from the engine bay?

Could be anything from anywhere. That's the problem with carbon canisters. They are such simple things in concept, but there are so many ways for morons to interfere with them so they don't work properly.

  • Like 1
On 13/12/2021 at 12:55 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Or could be the seal where the fuel tank lid goes, perhaps whoever changed the fuel pump in the past cocked up the installation.

A good chance it's this, you really notice it if you fill it up

  • Like 1
On 13/12/2021 at 10:55 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Or could be the seal where the fuel tank lid goes, perhaps whoever changed the fuel pump in the past cocked up the installation.

Mate, this sounds very promising. f**kin' reeks as soon as I fill up then dissipates over time. Just to be clear - seal on the inside, not the cap itself? 

On 13/12/2021 at 12:40 PM, Mlads33 said:

Mate, this sounds very promising. f**kin' reeks as soon as I fill up then dissipates over time. Just to be clear - seal on the inside, not the cap itself? 

Hope this helps :)

https://www.efisolutions.com.au/fuel-tank-seal-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-wc34-c11-t30-t3

It sits between the tank and the fuel tank lid (whatever it's called) followed by a locking ring around it. Can be a CNUT to take off with out the tool, but a piece of wood and a small hammer gets it off pretty easy. When re-installing I suggest some form of lubricant like lithium grease or KY lolol

  • Like 1
On 13/12/2021 at 12:43 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Hope this helps :)

https://www.efisolutions.com.au/fuel-tank-seal-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-wc34-c11-t30-t3

It sits between the tank and the fuel tank lid (whatever it's called) followed by a locking ring around it. Can be a CNUT to take off with out the tool, but a piece of wood and a small hammer gets it off pretty easy. When re-installing I suggest some form of lubricant like lithium grease or KY lolol

Thanks man! I've just ordered the part and will start ripping shit out this weekend. Any tips, tutorials, or anything else you can point me to? 

On 13/12/2021 at 1:27 PM, Mlads33 said:

Thanks man! I've just ordered the part and will start ripping shit out this weekend. Any tips, tutorials, or anything else you can point me to? 

Just search for a fuel pump change tutorial or post here.

Should be the same (minus the fuel pump swap)

  • Like 1
On 14/12/2021 at 11:37 AM, tridentt150v said:

very affordable too, should have looked into something back then lol... I grazed my knuckles and lots of F & C bombs were dropped LOL

  • Haha 2
  • 4 months later...

Just an update in case anyone is interested...

 

I ended up getting to the fuel pump and the cap was essentially welded on. The person that worked on the car before was definitely doing something there because when I managed to get the cap off, the seal that was meant to be there was just thrown into the petrol tank. Literally - just floating around in there. No signs of damage or wear at all. The bloke would've been having a shit day and just decided "screw it" and thrown the seal in the tank. 

 

Put a new seal on, pieced everything together and the petrol smell was gone. Thanks everyone! 

  • Like 5

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...