Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

We're building an R32 for Pikes Peak and am strongly considering yanking the AWD to save weight, remove complexity, and reduce breakage potential. We're running MoTeC (already controlling ATESSA) and are going DCT so we can add enough TC strategies to go from mild to wild... putting the power down won't be an issue between TC and aero.  The big question is what am I missing?  I'm my head it seems pretty straight forward - 

Remove OS88 / Xfer case
Pull front axels (this is where I'm unclear what to do on the hub side)
Get DCT adapter plate
Bolt up DCT with 1000hp clutches
Fab up new cross member
Add BMW or aftermarket DCT Shifter
Get new length DSS Driveshaft made
Tune HGT 
Tune MoTeC
Connect paddle shifters and TC knobs to MoTeC
Throw in some secret IMSA sauce
Go racing

Like I said, seems pretty easy but I'm not sure what's needed to keep pressure on the inner oil seals on the front hub.  I know this is a drag car thing in AUS so hopefully someone has some notes or pics to help us out.

20220114_231141487_iOS.thumb.jpg.8940d82c84bc8c22c700a3b522a9fc09.jpg

Edited by LeadChange
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483324-r32-full-rwd-swap/
Share on other sites

There are RWD engines for Skylines. If you're going to spend cubic dollars with going RWD, you'd be best off considering getting an RB30 built with the 26 head. That way you don't have to futz around with all the silliness of the front diff in the 26 sump.

But then......why run a GTR as a RWD? Just start with a RWD Skyline?

  • Like 1

Not going to debate the GTST v GTR topic... this is the car I have, the one I built, and the one that's going up the hill.  Yes I know purists are going to be pissed but it is what it is.

I forgot to mention we're going dry sump so the AWD sump will be gone anyway.  Shedding all that weight and making the car more pointy is one of the biggest reasons I want to make the change.     

 

Is pikes peak paved all the way to the top these days?

You definitely need to address the hubs because the driveshaft keeps them on. I've never done this but assume R32 GTST front uprights and hubs are the simple solution.

More information on the car would be interesting, perhaps even motorsport build thread over here: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/forum/272-motorsport-builds/

  • Like 1
On 12/02/2022 at 6:08 AM, Duncan said:

I've never done this but assume R32 GTST front uprights and hubs are the simple solution.

If true, then you still need to consider reintroduction of weight.

GT-R spindles/uprights are alloy, GTS-t ones are steel and weigh more.

Might be easier given going rwd and dry sump at same time just source all r32 gtst front setup (which is also half s chassis stuff)) and put that in. Job done and no if buts or maybes

 

I use gkteck drop knuckles in my r32 gtst 20mm drop assist suspension geometry with lower etc and 1.4kg per knuckle lighter than std

 

Gonna need that traction control ive got all what you have setup and prob more aero etc i dont have tc yet but run boost by gear and dbw and using advan 050 295 semis getting power down in 2nd and 3rd out of corners with anything more than about 550rwhp is tough

 

Good luck let us know !!!

 

Btw the Seyamax Admix R32 gtr time attack car in Japan did what your thinking and went rwd

Edited by bcozican
  • Like 1

You might be saving weight, but you will be sacrificing a heap of grip.

Nissan raced these things in Oz, and they ran as AWD, not as RWD, and were basically unbeatable, even over a 1000k race (Bathurst 1000). I don't think Nissan would have spent $$$ developing the AWD system if its additional grip factor did not overcome the additional weight factor.

  • Like 1
On 14/02/2022 at 8:50 PM, blind_elk said:

Nissan raced these things in Oz, and they ran as AWD, not as RWD, and were basically unbeatable, even over a 1000k race (Bathurst 1000). I don't think Nissan would have spent $$$ developing the AWD system if its additional grip factor did not overcome the additional weight factor.

This, if you wanted a fast RWD then a M2 would be a much better platform overall to compete with.

AFAIK in the R35s disabling the AWD makes them especially awful to drive because the suspension isn't really optimized for rear-end grip, it leans quite heavily on the AWD system. The R32 to my knowledge is similar, the rear-end has a pretty ridiculous amount of anti-squat from the factory. 

  • 2 weeks later...

not dogging on your quest to make the best out of your skyline but i honestly would think in what you're wanting to do awd would be much better considering the front will pull you  through the corners instead of having just the rear push you through them and possibly allowing the rear to overpower the front pushing you into a drift state [ not saying you wont be doing some drifting as it is] Me personally if i were in your shoes i would spend the time and money building the motor to its max potential and reducing weight elsewhere if possible. but thats just my 2 cents

 

On 3/1/2022 at 2:20 AM, GTSBoy said:

But this is reasonably easily fixed by lowering the front mounts on the LCA.

Right, just important to keep in mind that everything is engineered together as a system so you have to make those adjustments if you're going to do something as significant as deleting the AWD system.

On 3/2/2022 at 7:43 AM, joshuaho96 said:

Right, just important to keep in mind that everything is engineered together as a system so you have to make those adjustments if you're going to do something as significant as deleting the AWD system.

Well, maybe, but I'm inclined to say no. You should do that mod to any R32. RWD or AWD.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...