Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

For anyone that has done or know for this kind of project, I was wondering what would be the most suitable r34 model to use as a base (money/difficulty wise) if you are going for an as close as possible to a gt-r swap.

More specifically, to run a 6 speed rb26 AWD.

Most parts will be swapped anyway but my main concern is, is it worth the cost of a gt-four since it's AWD already just so I don't have to cut and make room for the front diff plus any addional parts I may use for the AWD system? From what I know it uses 4.3 diffs compared to 4.1 that the gt-r uses so that will probably change anyway.

Basically my options are:

- gt-four for the fit ready awd chassis and whatever I can use from the drivetrain

- 25gt which is easier and cheaper to find but I will need the AWD drivetrain and cut/solder for that to fit.

I'm not a engineer so might some stuff sound stupid or I miss a lot of other things so feel free to add any comments.

 

Cheers,

 

 

 

My immediate reaction to these inquiries is always "It's just not viable". But.... I suppose now that values of 34 GTRs are stratospheric, the money (and the effort) spent to "GTR" convert a lesser 34 is going to be nowhere near the value of a GTR.

But, I do have to ask.....what's the point? The RB25Neo is just as capable, if not better than the 26 to make power from. Even if you put all the widebody panels on the car, it still won't be a real GTR. So.... why not just build up a GT-four?

On 16/6/2022 at 5:25 PM, GTSBoy said:

My immediate reaction to these inquiries is always "It's just not viable". But.... I suppose now that values of 34 GTRs are stratospheric, the money (and the effort) spent to "GTR" convert a lesser 34 is going to be nowhere near the value of a GTR.

But, I do have to ask.....what's the point? The RB25Neo is just as capable, if not better than the 26 to make power from. Even if you put all the widebody panels on the car, it still won't be a real GTR. So.... why not just build up a GT-four?

The main thing is to be AWD, I don't want it RWD thus the concern. So even keeping the rb25 it has to be awd one or the other way.

Now about still not making a genuine gtr and not having the same value that is true. However with those prices atm which they can only go higher still would cost probably cost 50% less including body work etc. And for the value, not my main concern atm, def won't have a gtr value but probably could make it's money back if I ever decide to move on

The clever way is what GTSBoy has suggested (as it often is)

A GTFour with a RB25DET Neo drivetrain from a Stagea (i.e AWD) is the smarter way and likely better performing way than putting a RB26 in there instead.

Doing it with a GT is just more work, to the point where asking what base car is kinda irrelevent lol. About the same difficulty as doing it with a 240Z or 350Z or Holden Commodore.

(now I want to AWD convert my car ....wonder how viable that is)

On 17/06/2022 at 9:24 AM, Kinkstaah said:

 or Holden Commodore.

(now I want to AWD convert my car with the holden cross adventura stuff...wonder how viable that is)

🤔

It could be, but I looked into someone who had AWD converted his Monaro and realised it'd be subframes and god knows what and manual gearboxes grafted to driveshafts and it became 'yeah nah' quickly.

Though its probably possible with a mix of parts.

On 17/6/2022 at 9:24 AM, Kinkstaah said:

The clever way is what GTSBoy has suggested (as it often is)

A GTFour with a RB25DET Neo drivetrain from a Stagea (i.e AWD) is the smarter way and likely better performing way than putting a RB26 in there instead.

Doing it with a GT is just more work, to the point where asking what base car is kinda irrelevent lol. About the same difficulty as doing it with a 240Z or 350Z or Holden Commodore.

(now I want to AWD convert my car ....wonder how viable that is)

Curious why the rb25 would perform better than the rb26? Is it because of the block or head? I've seen many swapping to rb30 block and keeping the rb25 head.

My sweet spot would be around 600hp, nothing crazy but plenty of fun for everyday.

On 17/6/2022 at 11:39 AM, Ben C34 said:

Also no one drives a 600hp skyline everyday.

I drive a dc2 typer 400hp all motor every other day even for a small ride. Daily and easy to drive? Definitely not but I prefer joy over comfort atm.

My friend also uses a 650hp evo 10 full interior as a daily and isn't a pain at all even for longer trips except parking spots lol. I guess is just what you prefer.

 

On 17/6/2022 at 11:38 AM, Ben C34 said:

Blocks dont make power , their only job is to hold together

 

It's the rb25det neo head.

VCT, solid lifters and way cheaper.

 

I have heard the rb25 block is weaker tho no? Same goes for the rb26 with thinner cooling holes? That's why they go rb30

On 6/17/2022 at 11:13 AM, LeoM said:

I have heard the rb25 block is weaker tho no? Same goes for the rb26 with thinner cooling holes? That's why they go rb30

No. The RB330 block is arguably weaker than either, because it is taller. None of the RB blocks are particularly good, but the 30s have a longer section up near the deck with very little reinforcement.

There is little to no difference between a 25 and 26 block. There is absolutely nothing special about the 26 as a block or engine. It was just a mass produced engine.

People go RB30 for one reason and one reason only. Capacity. (Which leads to torque, which leads to power, which leads to everything being better).

On 17/6/2022 at 1:35 PM, GTSBoy said:

No. The RB330 block is arguably weaker than either, because it is taller. None of the RB blocks are particularly good, but the 30s have a longer section up near the deck with very little reinforcement.

There is little to no difference between a 25 and 26 block. There is absolutely nothing special about the 26 as a block or engine. It was just a mass produced engine.

People go RB30 for one reason and one reason only. Capacity. (Which leads to torque, which leads to power, which leads to everything being better).

Thanks for the insights mate!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...