Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 7/26/2022 at 12:29 PM, BK said:

Mate as you already have the -5, just go with them. At least they are new. Go run 1.5bar and report back if you like them

well, i guess if i run with these turbos on 1.5bar i will have other problems.. like the fuel system as someone mentioned. 

Upgrade in turbos goes hand in hand with supporting mods like a fuel system when moving away from a factory car. It’s how it is.

These cars cost ALOT! Open that wallet and watch the cash fly away.

  • Like 2
On 25/07/2022 at 9:26 AM, BK said:

So you bought -5 turbos, no grey zone about it. Pretty far from standard size turbos, as now at a minimum you'll need bigger fuel pump, bigger injectors and completely retune the car obviously with a non standard ECU.

As I've already mentioned, keep these turbos you NEED to do this. Not optional, need to.

For some reason it sounds like you still think you can keep these turbos based around everything else completely factory.

Ain't gonna happen

  • Like 1
On 27/07/2022 at 5:19 AM, Piggaz said:

Upgrade in turbos goes hand in hand with supporting mods like a fuel system when moving away from a factory car. It’s how it is.

These cars cost ALOT! Open that wallet and watch the cash fly away.

Last time I remember seeing on here you'd spent money we were still using Pounds....  😁😁  You still playing or what?  Says me who hasn't driven a GT-R for ten years.....  Fuel was $1/L last time I put fuel in it....

On 7/26/2022 at 12:29 PM, BK said:

Mate as you already have the -5, just go with them. At least they are new. Go run 1.5bar and report back if you like them

I will try to change them to a smaller refurbished or new ones from a local store or something. It's a bit stupid to run this big turbos when im only want to run factory power.

On 27/07/2022 at 4:49 PM, timmy94 said:

I will try to change them to a smaller refurbished or new ones from a local store or something. It's a bit stupid to run this big turbos when im only want to run factory power.

Dont do it, a factory power GTR is shit. No really- it is really, really shit. None of us bought a GTR to run the standard 160 -170kw at the wheel factory power output.

GTR comes alive at 300kw at wheels and up, which you me is where they should've been released at.

  • Like 1
On 7/27/2022 at 11:04 AM, BK said:

Factory power GTR is shit. No really- it is really, really shit. None of us bought a GTR to run the standard 160 -170kw at the wheel factory power output.

GTR comes alive at 300kw at wheels and up, which you me is where they should've been released at.

Okey. so how far can you go on these Rb26 engines safetly? Stock head and bottom. ( There are new rods, pisonts ( eagle and cp), crankcollar etc but do not want to push anything. I talked to a tuner who told me that these turbos Gt2860-R are great for street use and have fast spool on lower boost. I guess i could run these anyway and go for a bit more power then.

I have a link G4 ecu from a R33 GT-R, this one should work? I talked to link but they  couldnt confirm it, so i checked the pinouts with the link g4 software which only have a general pinout label for GT-Rs so i belive they are the same for r32 and r33..

Theyll take 300-330kw at the wheels without breaking a sweat, most of us have pushed standard engines well past that

any aftermarket ecu that works on a 33 will work on a 32 and vice versa 

  • Like 1
On 7/27/2022 at 11:31 AM, r32-25t said:

Theyll take 300-330kw at the wheels without breaking a sweat, most of us have pushed standard engines well past that

any aftermarket ecu that works on a 33 will work on a 32 and vice versa 

Okey, thank you. 

Well then i will take a closer look at this ecu. $500 is pretty cheap compared to a new one.

On 27/07/2022 at 7:55 PM, timmy94 said:

Okey, thank you. 

Well then i will take a closer look at this ecu. $500 is pretty cheap compared to a new one.

.

On 27/07/2022 at 6:39 PM, timmy94 said:

Okey. so how far can you go on these Rb26 engines safetly? Stock head and bottom. ( There are new rods, pisonts ( eagle and cp), crankcollar etc but do not want to push anything. I talked to a tuner who told me that these turbos Gt2860-R are great for street use and have fast spool on lower boost. I guess i could run these anyway and go for a bit more power then.

I have a link G4 ecu from a R33 GT-R, this one should work? I talked to link but they  couldnt confirm it, so i checked the pinouts with the link g4 software which only have a general pinout label for GT-Rs so i belive they are the same for r32 and r33..

My R33 is 330kw / 450hp at wheels on pump unleaded - completely unopened long engine. Basically fuel pump, 700cc injectors, Z32 AFMs, adjustable cam gears and 22psi boost on the far outdated Power FC with ball bearing HKS GT-SS turbos. (-9 Garrett equivalent)

Runs mid 11s at around 118 -120mph and is a motorkhana weapon.

  • Like 1
On 7/27/2022 at 1:27 PM, BK said:

Forgot add decent 3.5 inch exhaust and 100mm intercooler.

Okok.

Well there is some kind of 3" or 3.5" exhaust with 5" blitz muffler on. Intercooler is standard on mine, as well as bov etc..

 

How does that power fc work? And trigger upgrade, isnt that necessary?

I talked to the guy with the G4 Link, i could get it for 450 instead of 500, seems fair for that ecu?

 

Apexi Power FC is just a full replacement ECU we all used 15 - 20 years ago, allowing boost control, fuel and ignition tuning. They work well if you dont need anything outside of what they can do, and is why that car is still on one. On the single turbo cars with 4 bar MAP sensors, flex fuel, crank triggers and custom sensors I'm on the Haltech Elites.

Link G4 will be fine for what you want and will fit in factory location. No you won't NEED a trigger kit even though they are better.

On 7/27/2022 at 2:05 PM, BK said:

Apexi Power FC is just a full replacement ECU we all used 15 - 20 years ago, allowing boost control, fuel and ignition tuning. They work well if you dont need anything outside of what they can do, and is why that car is still on one. On the single turbo cars with 4 bar MAP sensors, flex fuel, crank triggers and custom sensors I'm on the Haltech Elites.

Link G4 will be fine for what you want and will fit in factory location. No you won't NEED a trigger kit even though they are better.

Yes i know its replacement ecu but ive heard that some verisions of those were not good at all. Was just curious what you thought about them

Thanks 😄

 

The g4 card.

 

 

 

Screenshot_20220727-141818_Samsung Internet.jpg

Screenshot_20220727-141828_Samsung Internet.jpg

Insprut-Bensin-Styrenhet.webp

Edited by timmy94

The tuner who told you GT2860R has fast spool on low boost was referring to -7.  Both -5 and -7 are GT2860R, but they are at the opposite end of capacity. 

If the HKS that came off have no shaft play nor oil leak, why not put them back on?  A pair of HKS oil restrictor cost little.  Perhaps send an email to HKS, if lucky they may be able to decipher the part number.  If they are really the GT25 series, then they are the streetable turbo you are looking for.

On 7/27/2022 at 4:45 PM, TXSquirrel said:

The tuner who told you GT2860R has fast spool on low boost was referring to -7.  Both -5 and -7 are GT2860R, but they are at the opposite end of capacity. 

If the HKS that came off have no shaft play nor oil leak, why not put them back on?  A pair of HKS oil restrictor cost little.  Perhaps send an email to HKS, if lucky they may be able to decipher the part number.  If they are really the GT25 series, then they are the streetable turbo you are looking for.

I think i was clear about -5, but idk..

 

Hks couldnt identify them by the plate.. still figuring out which ones it is. It has a little play in shaft but idk whats accepteble cause all turbos seems to have a bit of play when there is no oil pressure. There is no chafings in the housings..

Ok. So its either stick with these turbo run 300kw, new injectors and pump + link ecu

Or

Send the hks ones for service check and put link ecu on the car and dont bother of anything else. I guess the link ecu is a good option either way

Yes the Link is a good option no matter which turbo you end up.  With the -5 it will be more involved than just injectors and pump.  As others mentioned you also need new sensors to measure air flow, either MAP or MAF.  There are many fuel pumps available, but figuring out how you want to setup the wiring to supply the pump is another level of headache.  You can find plenty of discussion on that here.

  • Thanks 1
On 7/27/2022 at 6:04 PM, TXSquirrel said:

Yes the Link is a good option no matter which turbo you end up.  With the -5 it will be more involved than just injectors and pump.  As others mentioned you also need new sensors to measure air flow, either MAP or MAF.  There are many fuel pumps available, but figuring out how you want to setup the wiring to supply the pump is another level of headache.  You can find plenty of discussion on that here.

Okey. Its the headache i want to skip on this build. Just want as simple build as possible  so i can drive around the street buy some ice cream, do some roadtrips and just enjoy the car as it is. A bit more power wouldnt hurt but nothing more too fancy shit here, since the Silvia S15 went a bit crazy.

 

I will try to read through the forum as much as possible. 

On 7/27/2022 at 9:38 AM, timmy94 said:

Okey. Its the headache i want to skip on this build. Just want as simple build as possible  so i can drive around the street buy some ice cream, do some roadtrips and just enjoy the car as it is. A bit more power wouldnt hurt but nothing more too fancy shit here, since the Silvia S15 went a bit crazy.

 

I will try to read through the forum as much as possible. 

I am skeptical that your HKS turbos are the Garretts they rebranded for a while. If you want a "simple" turbo I recommend the GT2860R-7. Nismo resells these turbos as the R1 turbo kit, they have released an R3 turbo which supposedly yields slightly better response. These were the ones used in the R34 N1 cars which will do around 450-500 crank hp. The only turbo I know of that is smaller than these N1 turbos is the HKS GTIII-SS. It is a journal bearing Mitsubishi turbo so nothing special.

If you want the absolute simplest solution then stock ECU + R34 stock ceramic turbos are my recommendation. No tuning required at that point.

Edited by joshuaho96

It's worth noting that any tunable ECU will do what you need, but the PowerFC and Link G4 are direct plug in, while others like Haltech Elite will require custom wiring or an adapter at extra cost. Either way, the cost of tuning will be the same or more than the cost of the ECU, so you should find a tuner you trust first, and then buy the ECU they are familiar with.

PowerFC is very suitable for low-mid power like you are talking about, plug in and drive off, and very quick to tune because there are less parameters than more modern ECUs.

The problem with where you are right now is you are trying to work out a way forward based on what you have on your bench, rather than having a target power and buying the right parts to hit that. Any turbo more than about 10% bigger than standard requires many additional parts (and costs add up quickly).

If you are looking for a pretty much standard experience without unnecessary cost, I'd be getting the HKS turbos checked and putting them back on with a standard ECU, and run standard boost. Anything other path will be 10x or more the cost.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...