Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The car is nearly there, still on track to pick up tomorrow. Super happy with how tucked the exhaust is:
IMG_0934.thumb.jpeg.bca4c978da7309493f7fc3ed9a2f43f7.jpeg

It all is higher than the rails.

intercooler piping will be completed today:

IMG_0931.thumb.jpeg.3ba86ba4a2a223e50b1e1ac45bdb1ddc.jpeg

Don’t worry, I will have an airbox. This will be another item that I have taken inspo from @Dose Pipe Sutututu, so will look very similar to his..

  • Like 3
6 minutes ago, R3N3 said:

The car is nearly there, still on track to pick up tomorrow. Super happy with how tucked the exhaust is:
IMG_0934.thumb.jpeg.bca4c978da7309493f7fc3ed9a2f43f7.jpeg

It all is higher than the rails.

intercooler piping will be completed today:

IMG_0931.thumb.jpeg.3ba86ba4a2a223e50b1e1ac45bdb1ddc.jpeg

Don’t worry, I will have an airbox. This will be another item that I have taken inspo from @Dose Pipe Sutututu, so will look very similar to his..

But more importantly, is that a Super Turbo in the background?

  • Like 1
4 minutes ago, Duncan said:

But more importantly, is that a Super Turbo in the background?

I don’t think so, but I could be very wrong!

the body lines don’t look the same to me..

Edited by R3N3
5 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

wow... look very OEM+ 

Looking superb!

The airbox cover is real nice, it goes down and seals up against the pipe work too!

Thanks, though I did steel the design from you. I literally gave one of your pics from here to the fabricator…

I have noticed today that the trigger wheel is just touching the sensor, causing a not so nice noise (which made me panic). Anyway, the kit comes with shims, chucked one in and it won’t start… obviously the sensor is now spaced too far from the teeth and can’t pick up a signal for the haltech.

@Dose Pipe Sutututu and/or others with the same trigger kit, is there a setting in the haltech software to adjust the sensitivity, so I can space the sensor out?

3 hours ago, R3N3 said:

@Dose Pipe Sutututu and/or others with the same trigger kit, is there a setting in the haltech software to adjust the sensitivity, so I can space the sensor out?

Bring up the scope and/or just look at the trigger voltages and crank the car.

Now see what it's registering at, and adjust your trigger arming voltage table so it's a little below the voltage at crank.

I'll send some screen shots tomorrow when I'm at my desk.

 

  • Like 1
3 hours ago, R3N3 said:

Thanks, though I did steel the design from you. I literally gave one of your pics from here to the fabricator…

Haha wouldn't say it's stealing, when other Skylines also have similar designs.

Inspired by one another 

  • Like 1

This is what you need to adjust, ideally you want the trigger arming voltage to be a touch lower than the actually voltage read at the cranking RPM.

image.thumb.png.7d0fd177246438b815636b8bdb2681c6.png

I would setup a screen similar to this, and then cranking the car and see what you need to adjust the trigger arming voltage to be at.

image.thumb.png.4a88752f7feec5be435b4075c10983b2.png

This is from a Haltech article

https://support.haltech.com/portal/en/kb/articles/trigger-arming-voltage

image.thumb.png.9d5c4daf68d751ae4d76e7c3ec1d3515.png

10 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

This is what you need to adjust, ideally you want the trigger arming voltage to be a touch lower than the actually voltage read at the cranking RPM.

image.thumb.png.7d0fd177246438b815636b8bdb2681c6.png

I would setup a screen similar to this, and then cranking the car and see what you need to adjust the trigger arming voltage to be at.

image.thumb.png.4a88752f7feec5be435b4075c10983b2.png

This is from a Haltech article

https://support.haltech.com/portal/en/kb/articles/trigger-arming-voltage

image.thumb.png.9d5c4daf68d751ae4d76e7c3ec1d3515.png

Awesome, thanks!

unfortunately I have misplaced the shims between the workshop and home, so I’ll have to just go with as it is for now for the tune tomorrow. I’ll order more shims and adjust the voltages myself.

I did a final once over tonight. I pulled the injectors for an inspection, as I remember one didn’t go in so smoothly (my error). Turns out I bent the tip slightly. I’m not sure this is a major?

IMG_0997.thumb.jpeg.d2cf9c6c7b27effbed5a7ac91c7eeb86.jpeg

no biggie, as I ordered 2 spares when I purchased (I like to have a spare of most things).

Other than that, car is 100% good to go for tomorrow.

I also purchased and installed the gktech bash plate, as I’ve always hated that the underside of the engine was exposed. 

  • Like 2

Tuning went well!

Car made 420hp at 19psi at the hubs. Full boost by around 4000rpm.

IMG_1002.thumb.jpeg.a3d382073692cd826290b3eff9f29721.jpeg

Base boost pressure is a nice streetable 10psi with 3 different settings up to 20 (via keypad).

@Dose Pipe Sutututu, the tuner said he barely needed his big fan with the FPG kit, as it could hold it solid at 82deg through the power runs.

  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, I know🙄 but the sequential is not in my budget... don't want to reduce power neither, so looks like I'm stuck in the rabbit hole🤣
    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
×
×
  • Create New...