Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Plan now is to get it 100% road legal. In NZ we have to get the car certified for the mods. This basically involves a thorough inspection, road drive etc. Technically my car was already certified but it was not done with engine mods (just suspension), so things like the dash, keypad and wastegate will be a dead giveaway… we also have to cert the wheel sizes, so by me just going from 17s to 18s would also trigger a re-cert.

  • Like 1

Do they do an emissions test too?

I know if I tried with my car I would need to make it quieter, run smaller wheels, install a 400 cell cat, plumb back the catch can, reinforce the body work for the FMIC piping cut out, etc.

So much harder in NSW, Australia. Other states in Australia are a bit easier.

49 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Do they do an emissions test too?

I know if I tried with my car I would need to make it quieter, run smaller wheels, install a 400 cell cat, plumb back the catch can, reinforce the body work for the FMIC piping cut out, etc.

So much harder in NSW, Australia. Other states in Australia are a bit easier.

No, no emissions test and you only trigger the need for a cat converter if you do an engine swap (hence i dont have one). A catch can is a bit of a grey area at the moment, how i read the legislation i have to, but the cert guy says no, so who am i to argue... I also need to install a driveshaft hoop, which has been made and ready to go on.

  • Like 1
28 minutes ago, Duncan said:

There is a driveshaft loop from factory in the middle of the shaft, it also holds the centre bearing to the body.

yeah interested he needs another one? Unless I'm reading this wrong: "I also need to install a driveshaft hoop, which has been made and ready to go on."

15 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

yeah interested he needs another one? Unless I'm reading this wrong: "I also need to install a driveshaft hoop, which has been made and ready to go on."

Yes, any cert because of a power increase triggers it (a manual swap doesn’t).the driveshaft hoop is for each section of driveshaft, as the R33 has 2 pieces it requires 2. However, as @Duncan pointed out, the rear section (if I remember right) already has one with the hanger bearing, so i only need one for the front section.

  • Like 1
10 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

interesting rule! 

I recall you guys have another odd one where you can run a screamer pipe, provided it goes all the way to the rear of the car and exits next to the rear muffler.

That used to be true. As long as it vented to atmosphere behind the cabin of the vehicle. I think now that all exhaust gas has to go through a muffler also.

  • Like 1
15 minutes ago, Duncan said:

Odd. The standard one is accepted in Australian racing. 

You probably just need flat bar between the floor rather than a "hoop" as the tailshaft is above floor level in the tunnel

Nope, needs to be a hoop. Minimum 5mm steel. I’ll take a pic later. But yes, it is odd

Edited by R3N3
  • Like 1

Whoever is coming up with these rules need to relax the glass BBQ lol.

Sure it's for safety but surely for a car making 320kW that's clearly not needed, especially these cars the rear CVs would snap first before the tailshaft even begins to fatigue.

But rules are rules.

Here are the final dyno reports for each boost setting:

wastegate spring (7psi):

ReneNielsenFAD745Wastegatespringpressure.thumb.jpg.42bcd5fe29581981ae4a9ed83f0f144e.jpg

note that gate pressure sees the boost creep up to 12psi.

12 psi:

ReneNielsenFAD74513psi.thumb.jpg.79d0915980082dfcb697e931e42cb452.jpg

15psi:

ReneNielsenFAD74516psi.thumb.jpg.e2bab653d26135b93d8e54e20ed632db.jpg

20psi:

ReneNielsenFAD74520psi.thumb.jpg.81bfc922492c5e8bc129ba6d1bf942ca.jpg

Went for a quick drive up and down the street after the tow truck dropped the car off and man it is nice. The sound of the turbo, exhaust, intake and BOV is just so nice! The power feels so linear in how its delivered. 

 

  • Like 4

very nice power band you must be super happy, now for a flex fuel setup. Looking at the boost, and power curve, etc. there's enough headroom for near 400kW at the hubs! Power is still climbing, still room for more boost :D 

(don't listen to me, you'll end up making 400kW and then the motor will go bang and you'll have a sads then do something dumb like build a motor and regrets all round)

  • Haha 1
22 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

very nice power band you must be super happy, now for a flex fuel setup. Looking at the boost, and power curve, etc. there's enough headroom for near 400kW at the hubs! Power is still climbing, still room for more boost :D 

(don't listen to me, you'll end up making 400kW and then the motor will go bang and you'll have a sads then do something dumb like build a motor and regrets all round)

Haha. E85 is not easily accessible here in NZ, as it’s no longer sold at fuel stations (I think nation wide now). However… I have found a supplier who can ship large drums of the BP racing corn juice. I even wired in a connector for a flex sensor in the engine bay. I am just working through the legalities around the storage of the fuel etc.

My limiting factor at the moment for more power will be my clutch. It’s a HD full face organic clutch, which is rated to around 300ish kw and 450Nm torque, which is where I am. I will start to assemble parts for my stage 2 build, which will likely be a RB30, so when it does go bang I have something ready to drop in..

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Scenic roads, stunning skylines, and Chickos to finish it off! Join SAU NSW as we cruise through the Royal National Park and along Lawrence Hargrave Drive to Figtree! Sunday 26th October 2025 4:30PM Meeting Waterfall Station Parking 5:00PM Cruise Departure Royal National Park > Lawrence Hargrave Dr > Memorial Dr > Sid Parrish Park 6:15PM Arrival at Sid Parrish Park Figtree Meet Location: Waterfall Station Parking Final Destination: Sid Parrish Park RSVP: https://forms.gle/E4s5SiRKQfDdypky8 *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • It's funny, as Ive seen plenty of people use them in cheap builds on YT. And they actually go okay, even though a lot of other maxspeedingrods stuff is terrible. Those turbos seem reliable enough, the only part being, a good quality turbo that is "identical" to it, will out perform it day in and day out. In both a lower boost threshold, and the ability to flow more air at the same boost pressure. As a cheap cheap replacement, not a terrible choice. For cheap and shouldn't blow in a day, not terrible (like other eBay/Temu turbos) for low cost and still decent performance, that's where the question comes in to play from the results I've seen. I'd actually find it hilarious to buy one, and strap it to a paddock basher or some other cheap as POS originally NA car, and send it to the moon!
    • The maxpeedingrods turbo is cheap and bolts on to stock parts. I think you just need a bigger silicone coupler for the intake. Its a cheap china turbo, but it's been running on mine for almost 3 years at 16-19 psi.
    • What do they look like right after you've tried to start it with everything connected? Also post photos of what they actually look like.
    • Also wanted to say, my new spark plugs are blackened looks like it's very rich. I have splitfire coilpacks but stock coilpack loom and ignitor. I tried directly grounding the ignitor ground to body as well. 
×
×
  • Create New...