Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sound deadening is nearly complete. I managed to use 3x sheets of Dynamat for each door. Lined the complete inner and outer skin.

IMG_1534.thumb.jpeg.ea287a7e3689ccf7cae1295c63022bac.jpeg
I will be doing under the back seat and parcel tray next. Hopefully that reduces the fuel pump noise considerably..

Speakers amp and subs are next on the list for purchasing

  • Like 2

Minor update:

Fueling:

I have decided to add E85/100 into the mix for a bit more power, so I purchased an ethanol content sensor.

I have also never been happy with my fuel plumbing/filter arrangement, so I am going to purchase a nice IDF750 fuel filter like @Murray_Calavera. Once it’s all here I will work out how to package it all neatly so it’s not that visible in the engine bay.

ECU:

Haltech have released new firmware for the Elite ECU and they have a new MAP prediction for tuning idle @Dose Pipe Sutututu not sure if I explained that right? Anyway, idle is now amazing and so smooth.

Throttle blip is now 95% there! I was driving round with the laptop this morning doing some tuning (keyboard mashing more like it) to figure some things out.

  • Like 3

Nice!

Looks like it works well, Andy from Haltech must have pushed for that. It allows compensation for when port velocity is so low fuel that is sprayed is turned into a fuel film.

I think it's called x-tau in other ECU

3 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Nice!

Looks like it works well, Andy from Haltech must have pushed for that. It allows compensation for when port velocity is so low fuel that is sprayed is turned into a fuel film.

I think it's called x-tau in other ECU

Definitely better than the classic one.

i have also been toying with rotational idle (for wank factor) and launch control. Any tips for launch control ie. Ignition v injector cut etc?

2 hours ago, R3N3 said:

have also been toying with rotational idle (for wank factor)

If you want good brap idle, just have VCT enabled from 700rpm onwards and lower the idle timing in your zero demand table. I have it bouncing between 20 and 8 degrees LOL.

In terms of launch, I really haven't dialled it in as I just use the rolling anti lag switch for launch. That blankets retards 18° of timing and with ignition and fuel cut 100rpm over target. Gives me a little over 1bar of boost at 4500rpm or about 1.3bar at 5000rpm on a roll. Good for those cruise days at SMSP, and shooting flames lol.

  • Like 1
4 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

If you want good brap idle, just have VCT enabled from 700rpm onwards and lower the idle timing in your zero demand table. I have it bouncing between 20 and 8 degrees LOL.

In terms of launch, I really haven't dialled it in as I just use the rolling anti lag switch for launch. That blankets retards 18° of timing and with ignition and fuel cut 100rpm over target. Gives me a little over 1bar of boost at 4500rpm or about 1.3bar at 5000rpm on a roll. Good for those cruise days at SMSP, and shooting flames lol.

Dumb question…How can you change vct switching points with a keypad button?

6 minutes ago, R3N3 said:

Dumb question…How can you change vct switching points with a keypad button?

I don't think you can easily, unless you get creative and set up a Generic output condition to override it.

I just have mine turn from 50°C onwards, car struggles to idle with it on when it's cold lol.

  • Like 1

So the quest for “comfort” continues…

The cabin always smells like fumes… I have a feeling that this is due to the VTA catch can setup I have (not a legality issue NZ), as the ATP can puts it right against the firewall, right next to where the HVAC draws air from (well I think anyway). 

I have removed the charcoal canister (not legally required to my knowledge) and cut the lines under the car, which may also be contributing?

I have noticed that ATPerformance do a re-circ version of their catch can, so I will get that and hopefully that helps.

  • Like 1
4 minutes ago, R3N3 said:

I have removed the charcoal canister (not legally required to my knowledge) and cut the lines under the car, which may also be contributing?

put a small valve there, something that cracks after 0.1bar of pressure, if not you'll always smell fuel as the fuel tank breathes.

I have a one way valve, that cracks open at 0.1bar, some eBay junk. Stops the smell in the garage.

  • Like 1

Dose and Duncan, do you guys ever have issues where that valve has vented during a warm day, and then at night the tank has cooled and contracted?

Issues I could imagine might be the old fuel cap hard to get off as a main thought you could see.

 

My understanding is the fuel cap is sealed, or is it meant to vent and allow air into the tank to stop vacuum situations?

6 hours ago, MBS206 said:

 

 

My understanding is the fuel cap is sealed, or is it meant to vent and allow air into the tank to stop vacuum situations?

Yeah fuel caps allow air in when the tank is under vacuum, otherwise you create a big vacuum as the fuel gets used. Also, as Dose said any fuel vent should have a little spring pressure in it, you are meant to get that pshft when you open the fuel cap on a properly working system

  • Like 1
7 hours ago, MBS206 said:

Dose and Duncan, do you guys ever have issues where that valve has vented during a warm day, and then at night the tank has cooled and contracted?

Issues I could imagine might be the old fuel cap hard to get off as a main thought you could see.

 

My understanding is the fuel cap is sealed, or is it meant to vent and allow air into the tank to stop vacuum situations?

Old school fuel caps do I fact seal the fuel filler neck, however there's a vent elsewhere.

As of the 80s ish fuel caps started to incorporate 1x way valves to allow air in as Duncan has described.

  • Like 1

So I have managed to track down some finned RB covers for a reasonable-ish price (think half a crack rock instead of a full one).. These will be getting the same weld treatment, as there is breaks in the fins to fit the intake pipe over the top..

also on the weekend, I completed the sound deadening behind the back seat and on the parcel shelf. It’s times like these you realise how small cars of this era are..

While I was at it and the rear suspension top hats were accessible, I clicked the adjustable suspension to its softest….. but I still cringe when I see speed bumps in car parks..

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...