Sending my car in for a 360kw setup next month, need advice.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

I run a 4 port solenoids, however I don't recommend it for everyone.

In the past when I could be bothered working on other people's car for beer and cash I would generally fit 3 ports sourced from efisolutions aka taarks back in the day.

https://www.efisolutions.com.au/3-port-mac-valve-boost-control-solenoid

 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

2 hours ago, IM-32-FK said:

what fitting style do you use?

I actually fitted 3AN Teflon lines from the valve to the wastegate.

Had too many issues with hoses popping off at the track so full sent it with AN fittings.

 

And Birrong Automotive are great, love their RBs.

 

 

[IM-32-FK]

just a couple more questions:

- i was the told the r32 tps is better than 33/neo tps because it has a 'longer/bigger/larger' pulse and that i should run that instead

- was also told to run a slytech 2 wire universal iacv too instead of the stock iacv on a plazmaman plenum because the coolant spring in the stock iacv can cause problems

anyone care to advise?

[admS15]

Not sure what ecu you have again but if it's capable, why not just go DBW throttle body. No need for iacv and probably TPS too. I'm sure @Dose Pipe Sutututu will be here in a moment to say exactly this.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Throw the TPS, cable throttle, idle control valve, aux air valve out and go DBW.

I wish I did this sooner, superb idle control, no issues with big cams and AC, etc.

Not to mention you can now setup cruise control too.

 

 

 

[IM-32-FK]

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Throw the TPS, cable throttle, idle control valve, aux air valve out and go DBW.

I wish I did this sooner, superb idle control, no issues with big cams and AC, etc.

Not to mention you can now setup cruise control too.

 

 

 

ok i bought a plazmaman inlet with a 74 dbw, but that means i need to buy a link g4ret and also need to buy a pedal and mount so it comes down to paying like $500 more compared to throttle cable setup.

it better be worth it.

Edited April 14, 2023 by IM-32-FK

[joshuaho96]

7 hours ago, IM-32-FK said:

just a couple more questions:

- i was the told the r32 tps is better than 33/neo tps because it has a 'longer/bigger/larger' pulse and that i should run that instead

- was also told to run a slytech 2 wire universal iacv too instead of the stock iacv on a plazmaman plenum because the coolant spring in the stock iacv can cause problems

anyone care to advise?

WTF does that even mean? Is he talking about the deletion of the idle switch in favor of voltage-based idle detection? All standalone ECUs to my knowledge ignore physical idle switches.

If you want DBW to be worth it just add cruise control and traction control to the tune, maybe DBW-based rev limiting to get a no-compromise soft cut while you're at it. There's more you can do but those three alone are pretty big headline features you can do "for free" that are kind of a disaster to implement on traditional cable throttle. In theory you can also implement tricks like automatic rev-matching too.

[R3N3]

10 hours ago, IM-32-FK said:

ok i bought a plazmaman inlet with a 74 dbw, but that means i need to buy a link g4ret and also need to buy a pedal and mount so it comes down to paying like $500 more compared to throttle cable setup.

it better be worth it.

Nice! I’m yet to get my car with the new DBW setup tuned but already is definitely worth it! Check out www.iee.nz they have dbw pedals that fit stock location and stock pedal pads for that true OEM fit, he also has the right size rubber grommets to fill the cable hole. I wish I found them before I went the 350z pedal with adaptor route… are you keeping the factory oil/water heat exchanger?

Edited April 14, 2023 by R3N3

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

10 hours ago, IM-32-FK said:

It better be worth it.

It is, especially when you can control the pedal curve, which cannot be done on a traditional setup unless you swap the the throttle wheels and that's still garbage because it's generally a fixed curve.

If you've ever driven a car with a large cable throttle you'll notice it's ver touchy at low RPMs, you can get rid of that behaviour with DBW and exponentially ramp in the DBW TP vs. your Accelerator Pedal Position (APP).

And lastly superior cold start, idle control.

[IM-32-FK]

1 hour ago, R3N3 said:

Nice! I’m yet to get my car with the new DBW setup tuned but already is definitely worth it! Check out www.iee.nz they have dbw pedals that fit stock location and stock pedal pads for that true OEM fit, he also has the right size rubber grommets to fill the cable hole. I wish I found them before I went the 350z pedal with adaptor route… are you keeping the factory oil/water heat exchanger?

so as far as im aware you can either

1- buy a bosch dbw pedal and mount it onto the chassis https://www.bosch-motorsport-shop.com.au/accelerator-pedal-module

2- Buy an adapter plate that lets you mount a 350z or BA/BF falcon dbw pedal onto skyline chassis stock position https://rbfactory.shop/products/ls1-drive-by-wire-pedal-mount-to-nissan-silvia-skyline

3-  or buy a ready built one like this https://www.iee.nz/product-page/gtr-electronic-pedal-conversion?currency=AUD

 

ive found the adaptor for supras to mount on the bosch dbw pedal, but i cant find one for r34 skylines

[R3N3]

33 minutes ago, IM-32-FK said:

so as far as im aware you can either

1- buy a bosch dbw pedal and mount it onto the chassis https://www.bosch-motorsport-shop.com.au/accelerator-pedal-module

2- Buy an adapter plate that lets you mount a 350z or BA/BF falcon dbw pedal onto skyline chassis stock position https://rbfactory.shop/products/ls1-drive-by-wire-pedal-mount-to-nissan-silvia-skyline

3-  or buy a ready built one like this https://www.iee.nz/product-page/gtr-electronic-pedal-conversion?currency=AUD

 

ive found the adaptor for supras to mount on the bosch dbw pedal, but i cant find one for r34 skylines

I went with the Outsider Garage adaptor with 350z/350gt pedal. My recommendation would be the iee unit. 

[IM-32-FK]

17 minutes ago, R3N3 said:

I went with the Outsider Garage adaptor with 350z/350gt pedal. My recommendation would be the iee unit. 

this one? it says for r34 gtr but i got gtt. would it fit? also im guessing that doesnt come with pedal and you need to install your oem one in it? so this product just lines up and bolts directly onto the oem position

https://www.iee.nz/product-page/gtr-electronic-pedal-conversion?currency=AUD

Edited April 15, 2023 by IM-32-FK

[R3N3]

30 minutes ago, IM-32-FK said:

this one? it says for r34 gtr but i got gtt. would it fit? also im guessing that doesnt come with pedal and you need to install your oem one in it? so this product just lines up and bolts directly onto the oem position

https://www.iee.nz/product-page/gtr-electronic-pedal-conversion?currency=AUD

Correct. All you need is the pedal pad.

I can’t confirm if the accelerator pedal fits the GTT, but I assume it would. A quick google search shows that the pedal pad should at least fit..

send Stefan (owner of iee) a message, he’s really good to deal with and may have been asked before.

Edited April 15, 2023 by R3N3

[IM-32-FK]

2 minutes ago, R3N3 said:

Correct. All you need is the pedal pad.

I can’t confirm if the accelerator pedal fits the GTT, but I assume it would. A quick google search shows that the pedal pad should at least fit..

send Stefan (owner of iee) a message, he’s really good to deal with and may have been asked before.

its alright i already got the gtr metal pedal to fit gtt rod, just had to bore out the little plastic thing that sits inside the rod and the pedal

theres also this one

https://www.powertune.com.au/collections/rb26-solutions/products/dbw-electronic-dbw-pedal-suits-r32-r33-r34-gtr

 

[R3N3]

1 minute ago, IM-32-FK said:

its alright i already got the gtr metal pedal to fit gtt rod, just had to bore out the little plastic thing that sits inside the rod and the pedal

theres also this one

https://www.powertune.com.au/collections/rb26-solutions/products/dbw-electronic-dbw-pedal-suits-r32-r33-r34-gtr

 

To be fair. It doesn’t matter which pedal you go with, as long as it bolts up. The software manages the rest.

just check the compatibility of a GTR pedal into a GTT and you’re away 

[IM-32-FK]

23 minutes ago, R3N3 said:

To be fair. It doesn’t matter which pedal you go with, as long as it bolts up. The software manages the rest.

just check the compatibility of a GTR pedal into a GTT and you’re away 

im not going to do it but im just curious, do you have an idea about the wiring? where do wires from pedal go, where do wires from tb go and where does the link g4ret fit in? i think i may need a second expansion loom.  this setup is costing me $2400

Edited April 15, 2023 by IM-32-FK

[R3N3]

2 minutes ago, IM-32-FK said:

im not going to do it but im just curious, do you have an idea about the wiring? where do wires from throttle go, where do wires from tb go and where does the link g4ret fit in? i think i may need a second expansion loom.  this setup is costing me $2400

Wiring is pretty simple. The pedal and the throttle wire directly to the ecu. Remember you’re removing the aac and tps, so should free up some I/O at the ECU At the same time.

the pedal is essentially 2x tps sensors. It has 2x 5v, 2x signal ground and 2x signal wires. The 5v and signal ground can be common. So 4 wires total.

the throttle is essentially the same but with 12v stepper motor wires.

also remember that there is some re-routing of coolant hoses under the plenum when doing DBW. Check my build thread for info if you need.

[IM-32-FK]

23 minutes ago, R3N3 said:

Wiring is pretty simple. The pedal and the throttle wire directly to the ecu. Remember you’re removing the aac and tps, so should free up some I/O at the ECU At the same time.

the pedal is essentially 2x tps sensors. It has 2x 5v, 2x signal ground and 2x signal wires. The 5v and signal ground can be common. So 4 wires total.

the throttle is essentially the same but with 12v stepper motor wires.

also remember that there is some re-routing of coolant hoses under the plenum when doing DBW. Check my build thread for info if you need.

So I’m guessing my plug in g4+ requires a link e throttle module?

 

https://www.platinumracingproducts.com/products/link-ecu-e-throttle-g4-g4ret?currency=AUD&variant=44179266109672&utm_term=&utm_campaign=&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&hsa_acc=9668545500&hsa_cam=18866448471&hsa_grp=&hsa_ad=&hsa_src=x&hsa_tgt=&hsa_kw=&hsa_mt=&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI86K2nfmq_gIVqJlmAh37NAakEAQYASABEgLZLPD_BwE

[R3N3]

3 minutes ago, IM-32-FK said:

So I’m guessing my plug in g4+ requires a link e throttle module?

 

https://www.platinumracingproducts.com/products/link-ecu-e-throttle-g4-g4ret?currency=AUD&variant=44179266109672&utm_term=&utm_campaign=&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&hsa_acc=9668545500&hsa_cam=18866448471&hsa_grp=&hsa_ad=&hsa_src=x&hsa_tgt=&hsa_kw=&hsa_mt=&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI86K2nfmq_gIVqJlmAh37NAakEAQYASABEgLZLPD_BwE

It appears so... I run Haltech, so I’m not familiar with link ecu.

[IM-32-FK]

10 hours ago, R3N3 said:

It appears so... I run Haltech, so I’m not familiar with link ecu.

Is it still okay to use the collector intake gasket, the one that sits between top and bottom half stock intake manifold? Like it was a new gasket that was put on and bolted down but the engine was never ran with it on.