Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

3 minutes ago, JayJay777 said:

i dont think i can do it for 6k at all, ive said that. i just stated that what ive currently got on my list is 6k, i even said on the same post that i know that is nowhere near what i need. even with the extra bearing its still under 6k. again, not thinking im gonna do this for that price, just saying my list is all. 

stated previously as well the intake manifold is second hand.

Sounds good, I think I'm on the same page as you now. 

Working with your current list, I would consider going for the Link FuryX over the Xtremex. You'll want wideband o2 support, if you buy the Xtremex you'll need to buy a wideband controller which will likely cost more then the price difference between the 2 ECUs. 

Start having a think about what you are going to do fuel setup wise and what sensors you'll want to run. These costs can blow out crazy quickly. I'm not saying to do this, but just as an example of what you could do, all prices are from Haltech's website (because I'm a Haltech fanboy lol) - 

Fuel temp/pressure sensor $218
Oil temp/pressure sensor $218
Coolant temp/pressure sensor $218
Flex sensor $287
4 bar MAP sensor $219
Air temp sensor $59
Wideband o2 sensor $230

That's $1,449 just in sensors. 

It's a similar situation for the fuel system, it can get expensive surprisingly quickly. What brand of rail or will you keep it stock? What injectors? You could spend over 1k on the injectors alone. What fuel pressure reg? what lines will you use? You could use Kryptalon hose, it's about $100 a meter for -8 then suddenly your fittings are $50 a pop. Start adding up how many fittings you'll need and things get silly quickly. 

Of course there are lots of other expenses to consider, but off the top of my head those are the 2 that can be surprisingly expensive. 

3 minutes ago, UWISSH! said:

Do you already have a good full exhaust system?

will you need new coil packs?

cam gears?

also think about a new clutch to hold the extra power.

what injectors and fuel pump are you going to use? 
what fuel will you be running?

upgraded bov? and waste gate if going externally gated. Extra fab work and lines for said gate

thats just a couple things to take into consideration.

Yeah I’ve got an exhaust system set up.

been looking at coil packs too just wasn’t sure if I needed them

have cam gears saved but again I wasn’t sure if I needed them or not.

mines an automatic 

I’ve found some 1000cc injectors to use and now I just need to do some fuel pump research

got the waste gate and everything all quoted up, not sure if I’m gonna be running a bov as I like the dosing

9 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Sounds good, I think I'm on the same page as you now. 

Working with your current list, I would consider going for the Link FuryX over the Xtremex. You'll want wideband o2 support, if you buy the Xtremex you'll need to buy a wideband controller which will likely cost more then the price difference between the 2 ECUs. 

Start having a think about what you are going to do fuel setup wise and what sensors you'll want to run. These costs can blow out crazy quickly. I'm not saying to do this, but just as an example of what you could do, all prices are from Haltech's website (because I'm a Haltech fanboy lol) - 

Fuel temp/pressure sensor $218
Oil temp/pressure sensor $218
Coolant temp/pressure sensor $218
Flex sensor $287
4 bar MAP sensor $219
Air temp sensor $59
Wideband o2 sensor $230

That's $1,449 just in sensors. 

It's a similar situation for the fuel system, it can get expensive surprisingly quickly. What brand of rail or will you keep it stock? What injectors? You could spend over 1k on the injectors alone. What fuel pressure reg? what lines will you use? You could use Kryptalon hose, it's about $100 a meter for -8 then suddenly your fittings are $50 a pop. Start adding up how many fittings you'll need and things get silly quickly. 

Of course there are lots of other expenses to consider, but off the top of my head those are the 2 that can be surprisingly expensive. 

Glad we’re on the same page now haha.

Okay that’s really good to know tbh, I would never have thought of that. 

sensors definitely seem expensive but I mean hey, it’s all apart of it. I just ain’t ready for all the crap with the fittings haha, I feel as if it’s gonna be something I’ll have to do once I’ve started it.

but yeah I’ll be working on the fuel system soon. 

and on the manual swap, someone’s got the whole thing including interior and dash and wiring, legit anything. For $7500, however.. that’s where we run into the biggest issue… the missus likes the auto cause 1: she can drive it and 2: she can hold my hand as we drive haha.

23 hours ago, JayJay777 said:

front mount intercooler (aeroflow)

If you are set on the aeroflow intercooler I have one that was on my car. S2 Stagea with 260awkw.

It's sitting in a box in my garage and I'd be happy to pass it on. You would just have to pay for shipping from Sydney. Should have all the piping as well so may potentially be bolt-on. Or as good as. See attached for what it looked like on the car. Not sure if this is the right gear for entering beauty pageants but I think it'll look fine with different hose clamps.

intercooler_1.jpg

intercooler_2.jpg

  • Like 1
8 minutes ago, soviet_merlin said:

If you are set on the aeroflow intercooler I have one that was on my car. S2 Stagea with 260awkw.

It's sitting in a box in my garage and I'd be happy to pass it on. You would just have to pay for shipping from Sydney. Should have all the piping as well so may potentially be bolt-on. Or as good as. See attached for what it looked like on the car. Not sure if this is the right gear for entering beauty pageants but I think it'll look fine with different hose clamps.

intercooler_1.jpg

intercooler_2.jpg

main reason i was so set on it was because i know you can get them in full black and since im only on my red P's its a lot easier to get away with having a turbo. we have this crappy rule in VIC where a P plater cant drive a car which has been modified for power, hence why i wanna go with a black intercooler and then ill just say my bonnet latch is broken so they cant peep under the hood haha. but the one i wanna buy is about 295 from autobarn

12 minutes ago, JayJay777 said:

main reason i was so set on it was because i know you can get them in full black and since im only on my red P's its a lot easier to get away with having a turbo. we have this crappy rule in VIC where a P plater cant drive a car which has been modified for power, hence why i wanna go with a black intercooler and then ill just say my bonnet latch is broken so they cant peep under the hood haha. but the one i wanna buy is about 295 from autobarn

But with your scope of obvious performance parts (especially with a screamer pipe, they’ll hear you from a mile away), all they have to do is lift the bonnet.. another good reason to try use as many stock parts..

Skylines/stageas will always attract an extra look from the police..

5 minutes ago, R3N3 said:

But with your scope of obvious performance parts (especially with a screamer pipe, they’ll hear you from a mile away), all they have to do is lift the bonnet.. another good reason to try use as many stock parts..

Skylines/stageas will always attract an extra look from the police..

thats a good point id be willing to forgo the screamer pipe tbh, but ill probably do what my made did when they turbo charged their 300zx and just disconnect the cable for the bonnet and relocate it so that it cant be opened. it works pretty well tbh

2 minutes ago, JayJay777 said:

thats a good point id be willing to forgo the screamer pipe tbh, but ill probably do what my made did when they turbo charged their 300zx and just disconnect the cable for the bonnet and relocate it so that it cant be opened. it works pretty well tbh

And he got pulled over and asked to open the bonnet and then got away with it? I find that hard to believe.

I'd say spend the time on P's to save money and then go nuts once you have the full license.

1 minute ago, soviet_merlin said:

And he got pulled over and asked to open the bonnet and then got away with it? I find that hard to believe.

I'd say spend the time on P's to save money and then go nuts once you have the full license.

its innocent until proven guilty in their case, pulled over for just being a hoonable car, cops cant force you to rev your engine or anything. they did get a defect, but its a lot better than what would happen if they were caught with the turbo.

Oh, it's way worse that what you say.

In Victoriastan, you are not allowed to have any more than 2 inlet modifications. If you do an intercooler, that's one. If you change the air filter, that's two. Then you're done. If you don't change the filter, so you can change the turbo, that's your two. And if you change the turbo, you'd better keep it looking as stock as possible, because that's somewhat of a nono in Vic.

And....if you bin the ECU and go MAP sensed, and the AFM is removed, then that is an inlet modification (removing the AFM) and that's a 3rd mod and that's not allowed. But none of it is really allowed because changing the ECU gets you a full swing kick to the balls. An FFP is another inlet mod, probably earn you another kick in the nads.

And if you do it all on your Ps....good luck.

Spending big money on these mods, only to get defected and have to revert it al back to stock, doesn't sound like fun. A set of stealthy upgrades is far better. A return flow cooler is a good idea because the stock piping remains. A stock looking turbo on the stock manifold is also good. No screamer, obviously.

 

And, do not be too confident on your ability to avoid detection by disabling the bonnet pull. If the cops defect you, and they can for any reason at all, you go to inspection. At inspection, they WILL find whatever you have under the bonnet,, unless you have reverted to stock in the few days grace that you have. And that is a lot harder and more time consuming on a heavily modded car than anyone ever is willing to believe.

7 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Oh, it's way worse that what you say.

In Victoriastan, you are not allowed to have any more than 2 inlet modifications. If you do an intercooler, that's one. If you change the air filter, that's two. Then you're done. If you don't change the filter, so you can change the turbo, that's your two. And if you change the turbo, you'd better keep it looking as stock as possible, because that's somewhat of a nono in Vic.

And....if you bin the ECU and go MAP sensed, and the AFM is removed, then that is an inlet modification (removing the AFM) and that's a 3rd mod and that's not allowed. But none of it is really allowed because changing the ECU gets you a full swing kick to the balls. An FFP is another inlet mod, probably earn you another kick in the nads.

And if you do it all on your Ps....good luck.

Spending big money on these mods, only to get defected and have to revert it al back to stock, doesn't sound like fun. A set of stealthy upgrades is far better. A return flow cooler is a good idea because the stock piping remains. A stock looking turbo on the stock manifold is also good. No screamer, obviously.

 

And, do not be too confident on your ability to avoid detection by disabling the bonnet pull. If the cops defect you, and they can for any reason at all, you go to inspection. At inspection, they WILL find whatever you have under the bonnet,, unless you have reverted to stock in the few days grace that you have. And that is a lot harder and more time consuming on a heavily modded car than anyone ever is willing to believe.

to be honest i didnt even think you could get 2 lmao, i was under the impression if i get caught with my pod filter and no box id probably just get shafted there and then (probably still will tbh)

but yeah i get what you mean, definitely not a good idea i agree. i think what @soviet_merlinsaid is probably the best bet, just wait and save and then do it, cause lets be honest, its gonna be a while before i have everything to put on the car, may just do the intercooler for now, id prefer to do the ffp but if what you said is true then ill just wait, that way i may have even more money for an even more comprehensive set up. i do think just modding the turbo to high flow should be fine though (in the future) cause itll still have the same housing and the piping should cover up any sign of it being modified, do correct me if im wrong on that part.

29 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

If the cops defect you, and they can for any reason at all, you go to inspection. At inspection, they WILL find whatever you have under the bonnet

What happens when further modifications are found at inspection? More defects filed that will have to be resolved? Car taken away? Points on license? Castration? I'm not familiar with the system and always wondered about that.

2 hours ago, soviet_merlin said:

More defects filed that will have to be resolved?

Yes. It's more or less the same anywhere where the cops defect something and it goes over the pits. If they find more stuff on the pits, it must be made good or they won't clear the defects that it was there for.

35 years ago or more, my mate got defected in SA for steering wheel, bonnet scoop, oil leaks. He "fixed" those things (ie cleaned off the oil without fixing the leak) and went to the cop shop to have it cleared. The Sergeant was more thorough than the patrol car bobby and found about 10 more things he had to fix before he would even look at the original list.

I took my car to Regency for inspection after the (pre-approved) engine transplant. I had to make sure that there were no dents in the chassis rails, everything was or at least looked stock. No non-approved suspension parts, good seat belts, etc etc. Windscreen demister has to work. They checked EVERYTHING. would have defected the car if they were not happy. They let me slide on 2 minor things, on me promising to make them good after I left.

2 hours ago, soviet_merlin said:

Castration?

In Victoriastan? I wouldn't be surprised if they have it on the books. :D

I've been driving modified shitbox Nissan's in Victoriastan for the last 9 years and have been pulled over exactly 0 times. Actually that's a Iie, I got pulled up once when I blasted past an undercover at 20 k over. Copped a speeding fine only which was surprising considering my wife was yelling abuse at them.

Honestly, you don't see many cops on the road anymore. Probably all working from home or just eating donuts back at the station.

Just don't drive like a dickhead in the wrong place and you'll be right. 

57 minutes ago, admS15 said:

don't drive like a dickhead in the wrong place and you'll be right. 

Yeah don't do 180km/h+ gate it in a 70km/h zone with Go Pros mounted and some internet superstar from TRC.

  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...