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What oil pump gears?

The Skyline Guy r34
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The Skyline Guy r34 Rookie

The Skyline Guy r34

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On 02/02/2024 at 8:05 PM, joshuaho96 said:

You are not removing the oil pump without pulling the engine. Just isn't happening. It is theoretically possible, in practice a 700 pound boat anchor is going to be hanging over your head and the slightest mistake will severely injure you.

I have done very annoying jobs that should require pulling the engine but I didn't. I get the mental block when it comes to pulling engines, especially because it requires a ton of shop space most people don't have. This is one case where you need to pull the engine.

Ok, will it be worth it to put on a fluidampr to prolong the life of the stock pump and gears?

Edited by The Skyline Guy r34
joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, The Skyline Guy r34 said:

Ok, will it be worth it to put on a fluidampr to prolong the life of the stock pump and gears?

Probably, especially if the stock damper is 25+ years old. I don't think it will do much for the oil pump which mostly dies to cavitation but the rest of the engine will appreciate it.

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Butters Experienced

Butters

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Posted

I have to add, I've run two(small sample I know) RB26 with stock short nose r32 crank and stock oil pump gears at high power over many years without issue.

I do always put on an ATI damper and manage limiter.

650whp - run 9's and has been in my hands for 16 years and counting.

780whp - driven weekly, roll raced etc and been going 4 years and counting.

 

This is no guarantee for you but it is a counter to the RB's smash gears by just looking at them :)

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The Skyline Guy r34 Rookie

The Skyline Guy r34

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Posted
2 hours ago, Butters said:

I have to add, I've run two(small sample I know) RB26 with stock short nose r32 crank and stock oil pump gears at high power over many years without issue.

I do always put on an ATI damper and manage limiter.

650whp - run 9's and has been in my hands for 16 years and counting.

780whp - driven weekly, roll raced etc and been going 4 years and counting.

 

This is no guarantee for you but it is a counter to the RB's smash gears by just looking at them :)

Ok, so you would say its worth getting a damper?

Butters Experienced

Butters

Posted
Posted
24 minutes ago, The Skyline Guy r34 said:

Ok, so you would say its worth getting a damper?

It's always been my policy but I have no comparison motor without one to compare it to.

As others have said, the one on your motor is also for sure trashed by now.

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joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
14 hours ago, The Skyline Guy r34 said:

Ok, so you would say its worth getting a damper?

I will bet if you've never replaced your damper the one on the car is absolutely wrecked and you should think about replacing it regardless of how much power you want to make.

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samw/skyline Contributor

samw/skyline

Posted
Posted

You should wait to get the billet gears like the guys are saying, but removing oil pump in engine if you ever need to for some reason is possible. I coincidentally just watched this video the other day. I bought gears without knowing how much trouble removing the pump would be so I've decided to just sit on the stock one till it goes and then go down the rabbit hole of pump, gears, crank collar, head drain, pan, etc. 

 

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

well, good on him for proving its possible, but it is still not how I would do it. That vid doesn't show probably the trickiest bit with cleaning and resealing the sump (although he does state it is done and not leaking, wish I could say that for mine :rofl:)

My view is still that replacing an RB oil pump is an engine out job, and you probably shouldn't do it without putting on a larger sump and doing some oil return mods.  There is very little safety gained by moving to billet gears alone, and you really can't put in a higher flowing one without making other engine out changes. And of course, in a 32 you still have the short oil pump drive which is by far the biggest issue with pumps. Also, the time to do it in the car is almost certainly longer than the time to R&R the engine and doing it on a stand. 

Just stay off the limiter with a standard engine. Or really, any engine, these things are expensive these days

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Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, Duncan said:

Just stay off the limiter

But but but... It's when I know it's time to change gears or reached my desired max speed in 4th (as I'm still using the factory dash lol).

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

But but but... It's when I know it's time to change gears or reached my desired max speed in 4th (as I'm still using the factory dash lol).

Yeah, I wish my redline in 1st was about 10k. It comes up and yells "Surprise mutherf**ker!" whenever the red mist comes down at the traffic lights.

  • Haha 3
joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, r32-25t said:

Once you’ve pulled the box, the crossmember. The drive shafts and what ever else, it would have been quicker to just pull the engine 

And now you have 500+ pounds of engine hanging basically in free space threatening to split your head open. Not worth the hassle. And I would go as far to suggest that doing turbos with the engine in the car is not the worst idea in the world if you can afford to take your time and don't have space for a car and an engine.

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