Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Had a little bit of a dissappointing result at the SAU:SA Dyno day today the M35 only pulled 126 KW :happy: It was on a mainline dyno, which they say under reads - but even so, would've liked a few more numbers. At least Ive got a baseline for future comparisons though.

post-69799-1283568212_thumb.jpg

i thought m35's ran 12psi stock?

you didn't even make it to 10

if its highflowed, its good to about 20psi but 14 will be safe with the stock ecu/boost cut

  • 2 weeks later...
that is nuts Scott.

That would be a real handful in the wet.

Its quite docile actually, only spins up inside wheels in first, I would be stepping out sideways if it had an lsd though.

Of course I dont drive like Craig either. :geek:

Its quite docile actually, only spins up inside wheels in first, I would be stepping out sideways if it had an lsd though.

Of course I dont drive like Craig either. :geek:

I have the Nismo in my car at the moment and it comes on very strong in the lower rpm and in the Wet + 1st gear + a bit of fun = a very sideways car out of round abouts.....lol

Its quite docile actually, only spins up inside wheels in first, I would be stepping out sideways if it had an lsd though.

Of course I dont drive like Craig either. :)

Oh you will....once you find the love of the LSD and loose the single spinner!!! :P

I have the Nismo in my car at the moment and it comes on very strong in the lower rpm and in the Wet + 1st gear + a bit of fun = a very sideways car out of round abouts.....lol

LOL....at least you can get sideway's at low speeds....I have to wait until I hit 60-70km's!!....lol

just love the way it stay's at about 1000nm's.......nice steady curve up to 300AWKW's as well.

Try that with a RB tractor motor :P

you realise thats tractive torque and the only way to measure engine torque accurately is on an engine dyno? so its not really 1000Nm

still an impressive result, should be even better if you guys get your ecu re-mapper sorted

you realise thats tractive torque and the only way to measure engine torque accurately is on an engine dyno? so its not really 1000Nm

still an impressive result, should be even better if you guys get your ecu re-mapper sorted

Yep, tractive effort, and 200nm more than the 2j manual supra that was tuned before mine.

V6 FTW... :P

I have given up on the remap, mainly because I will be changing to the VQ35 soon. It looks like I am going down the Haltech platnum pro path.

Awesome result man... especially for a car so well behaved. (Yes I'm jealous)

Maybe you need to get it in an engine dyno to see exactly what nm it is pushing?

Edited by iamhe77
Awesome result man... especially for a car so well behaved. (Yes I'm jealous)

Maybe you need to get it in an engine dyno to see exactly what nm it is pushing?

Probably easier to just get an RB powered car of similar output on the same dyno for a comparison.

Probably easier to just get an RB powered car of similar output on the same dyno for a comparison.

would be a lot easier

but i think the tractive torque is affected by gear ratios, tyre size and a few other things so it may not be an accurate comparison

would be a lot easier

but i think the tractive torque is affected by gear ratios, tyre size and a few other things so it may not be an accurate comparison

I think as long as the speed to revs ratio is the same it wont matter. Different gears, diff ratios and tyre sizes will change everything, not to mention auto box and awd etc.

Probably easier to just get an RB powered car of similar output on the same dyno for a comparison.
you realise thats tractive torque and the only way to measure engine torque accurately is on an engine dyno? so its not really 1000Nm

still an impressive result, should be even better if you guys get your ecu re-mapper sorted

if only i had the front hubs... we would know in 5 mins.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...