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There's more to it than just a peak figure on a dyno sheet.

A well tuned nistune setup will drive so much nicer than an signal bender.

Plus nistune can now do flexfuel.

My old car made 187 on the standard ecu and 191 with a pfc.

Buuuuttttt 98mph at the strip with the standard ecu vs 104mph with the pfc

No other changes

Yep, stock ECU kills the midrange, but leaves the last 500RPM to make good peak power figure. But it's hugely noticeable on the road, and even more so when its graphed on the dyno how bad the mid range is.

Haltech alone is 2k. Plus tune

There is 3k before you change anything

Yep, it is expensive but I think it's a better route than a Nistune or SAFC.

I priced up the Haltech (platinum sport plug and play) at $1900. Full Tune was $650. Walbro was $110 and actuator $30.

The parts could be installed yourself, it is very simple. Changed a turbo might be difficult for most and changing injectors is really really annoying. I assumed that these parts would be installed by someone else as well as the Nistune.

Also the benefit I see with leaving everything else stock is that you could return it to factory specs very easy. Replacement parts are also cheaper and 220rwkw is double what I have in my Silvia.

My old RB25DET (stock engine) went from 160rwkw to 230rwkw @ 11psi with just a PowerFC and Pump at Autotech. All I had to do was change the computer and actuator, easy as!

I'd love one of new gen ecus

Syvecs s6 would be mint.

230 @11psi is the reason I say local dynos read high..not taking away from your car

But unless it ran 109-110mph (I know drag racing isn't your thing lol) it wasn't making 230. Thats gcg highflow at 16psi territory.

I'd love one of new gen ecus

Syvecs s6 would be mint.

230 @11psi is the reason I say local dynos read high..not taking away from your car

But unless it ran 109-110mph (I know drag racing isn't your thing lol) it wasn't making 230. Thats gcg highflow at 16psi territory.

230KW is also out of AFM and I believe also injector duty, without dramatically raising the fuel pressure.

I'd love one of new gen ecus

Syvecs s6 would be mint.

230 @11psi is the reason I say local dynos read high..not taking away from your car

But unless it ran 109-110mph (I know drag racing isn't your thing lol) it wasn't making 230. Thats gcg highflow at 16psi territory.

Yeah, I thought 230rwkw was high but it's more the power deliver that I liked. Was so good, then I blew the motor up after 1 year full year of actual drifting haha. Anyway, I would go a computer before a larger turbo first.

230KW is also out of AFM and I believe also injector duty, without dramatically raising the fuel pressure.

Injector duty was 99%. Had a Sard or a Fake Sard (they look the same!). Definitely stock AFM though. Next step was Z32 but that was when I start to drive better.

Oh, and I didn't run 230 normally. I pulled it back to 10psi ;)

Yeah, I thought 230rwkw was high but it's more the power deliver that I liked. Was so good, then I blew the motor up after 1 year full year of actual drifting haha. Anyway, I would go a computer before a larger turbo first.

Drivability is the main thing.

Too many people focus purely on the top right hand corner of a dyno sheet.

Case in point

Mate of mine had a top secret built r33 gtr

Had all the gear. T88-38gk etc

Made over 1000hp at all 4

Annd

Ran a 12.2 @ 112mph

Because it had a 1000rpm power band and outside of that had about 100hp

Can anything else be added for a few more killabees?

You already have - 10psi actuator, Pod, FMIC and Exhaust.

You may need - Fuel Pump.

The Midrange Flatness will be the biggest improvement and yeah the Topend numbers will be better but only to a point.

Injector duty was 99%. Had a Sard or a Fake Sard (they look the same!). Definitely stock AFM though. Next step was Z32 but that was when I start to drive better.

Oh, and I didn't run 230 normally. I pulled it back to 10psi ;)

In all honesty it was probably close to making a legit 200 - 210RWKW. If they did push fuel pressure up and really did make 230RWKW (Would likely want more boost though to do so) then you would have had a region where the AFM hit maximum, and a hell of a lot of fuel gets dumped in, your AFRs would drop lower, and by the time you reach redline you'd be at your wanted AFR

You already have - 10psi actuator, Pod, FMIC and Exhaust.

You may need - Fuel Pump.

The Midrange Flatness will be the biggest improvement and yeah the Topend numbers will be better but only to a point.

I'd dump the 12psi actuator in just for that little bit more of a gain. Hmmmm... Might just go for a nistune+tune and hope for a 210kw? Is that realistic?

That actuator won't bolt on without some work / bracket. I've seen it. :yes:

If my car wasn't doing weird stuff, it could've potentially made 210 with the SAFC.

Yours being a NEO and with a real ECU (not piggyback) and if you're lucky, I don't see why not. :)

Zeb, Eiji and Matt are more in the knowledge zone than myself however.

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