Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

247.4rwkw

R33GTST

Z32 AFM

GCG High Flow - R33 exhaust housing (not vg30)

3" Batmbl bellmouth dump --> Catco Cat --> 3.5" Kakimoto with 2 mufflers

S15 injectors 450cc

Tomei Fuel Pump

Turbtech boost valve

18psi - running back to 16psi

Stock Airbox

450x300x76 FMIC (Justjap)

Full boost actually comes on earlier on the street in 4th than the dyno indicates. 1st and 2nd gear not quite.

Tuned at MRC Castle Hill - Mark (Top Bloke and good tuner)

post-11777-1200910069_thumb.jpg

post-11777-1200910755_thumb.jpg

Edited by benl1981
  • 2 weeks later...

R33 gtst Rb25

Z32 afm

splitfire coils

sard fuel reg

tomei metal head gasket

hybrid intercooler

garrett GT3540 turbo with .82 rear

tial 38mm wastegate.

Apexi power fc

Blitz sbc id3 boost controller.

etc etc

Makes 300hp @ 14psi on a safe tune as it needs to get me to work daily.

Just got it back today and quite happy with the result. Will post up dyno chart if i can get it on my computer

Mark at godzilla tuned it. did a good job

R34 GTT RB25DET NEO

everything stock except:

K&N intake

dump-front-metal cat-hipower silent

avcr - 0.7bar(10spi) to be exact

safc2

coilpack+sparkplugs

serviced(oil change+filter)

= 279.9 rwhp = 208.something something rwkw

will post result soon

post-40804-1201921050_thumb.jpg

Edited by lcy

Sorry mate, though you could've edited my first post....

My car spat out 201.7rwkw on 13psi with split dump and screamer, big cat and two mufflers, jjr front mount, power fc and avcr. Turbo lasted 5 weeks so my gt3076r is getting built as we speak, along with 550cc injectors hopefully will get over 250rwkw on around 16psi.

  • 2 weeks later...

hi i have got 260hp/195kw with the following:

dyno dynamics dyno on shootout mode

standard turbo

gtr front mount

dual stage boost controler 13psi

blitz sonic power pod in closed box

modified entry plenum

3'bell mouth dump pipe high flow cat and katimoto cat back

standard computer

standard evrything else

dynochartwithaf080308edit.jpg

MODIFICATIONS AND SPECIFICATIONS

1998 NISSAN SKYLINE R33 GTS2.5T

40TH ANNIVERSARY EDITION.

2.5 litre twin overhead cam straight six standard motor, never openned.

Mechanical Nismo Selective 1.5 L.S.D. diff

Nismo G Max II clutch

Tein coil over height and ride adjustable

Super advan mags (powdercoated black) with 245/255 Yokohama AVS102 tyres

Hicas lock out [individual tie rod ends]

Whiteline adjustable nolethene bushes for camber/castor at all four wheels

HKS triple layer dry pod filter

Z32 Mass Air Flow Meter

SARD fuel pressure regulator

555 Nismo injectors (yellow top colour coded)

Splitfire coils

Blitz 700x600x70 fmic (anodised blue)

HKS IV electronic vacuum controller (boost controller)

Blitz turbo timer

Apexi turbo boost gauge in custom s/s holder

Greddy gauges x3:oil pressure, oil temp, exhaust temp, mounted in a dash pod

Superslide carbon fibre adjustable rear wing

Alloy oil cooler with stainless steel braided lines

Apexi alloy radiator

Cusco high pressure radiator cap

D1 oil catch can

Master cylinder brake brace stop bracket

Project mU front discs [brakes]

Braided stainless steel brake hoses [full kit]

90mm exhaust with HKS Hyper 120mm s/s muffler

Cusco front tower strut bar

Garrett GT3076 WG turbo with 100mm fluted inlet

Custom braided oil and water lines to turbo

HKS 40mm external wastegate [18psi spring rate]

HKS cast low mount manifold extrude honed and flowed

Custom alloy intake pipe

Custom s/s split dump and front pipe

Nismo 500hp fuel pump with 12volt power feed

Tomei adjustable exhaust cam pulley

Tomei Poncams 256 degrees/8.5mm lift

Apexi Power Full Computer with Hand Controller

Alpine MP3 player and 4 x coaxial speakers

300kph Nismo speedo

Carbra

SAAS/Momo leather steering wheel

Razo gearknob

Razo accelerator pedal

Custom holder for hand controller

Custom grills on front bar

Custom s/s front bar braces

Custom rear boot lid spoiler trim

Custom stainless steel heat shield around turbo

Custom EVC mount on steering wheel cover

Odyssey fully sealed gel battery and custom mount

External wastegate, manifold, and turbo exhaust housing high temp coated

Stock Internal RB25DET

HKS 3037 Pro S turbo kit, 56T A/R 0.68

HKS adjustable internal wastegate

HKS Stainless steel split dump pipe

HKS Front pipe

3" decat pipe

HKS Silent High Power stainless steel catback exhaust

HKS 3" alloy intake pipe

Apexi Power FC

Apexi Power FC Boost control kit

Apexi Power Intake Pod filter

Blitz LM Front Mount Intercooler

Nissan Z32 AFM

Nismo fuel pump

Nismo 555cc injectors

R.I.P.S custom washer bottle/oil catch tank with -10 lines

Custom black radiator air deflector

Exedy heavy duty clutch

Splitfire coils

Fuel purge system fully removed

Alloy radiator

NGK BCPR6ES spark plugs

95 octane

270rwkw on 17psi and only using crappy 95octane fuel

Picture016.jpg

Picture017.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

R33 Series 2 GTST

3" Split front dump, high flow cat, 3 inch zaust.

FMIC

Greddy EBC

Walbro FP

Fairly Hot day, BP Ultimate 98 octance

183.4rwkw @ 11psi

Edited by dnbutts
Guest Joeyz
Hi all

Hi-flow Turbo - GCG

Exhaust cam gear - Adjustable Greedy

Adjustable fuel pressure regulater - Turbosmart

500hp intank fuell pump - Walbro

Z32 AFM

NGK Irridum spark plugs

Shell V-Power Racing Fuel

3" Exhaust

FMIC - Greedy

244.9rwkw

Update

Tomei Pon Cams

Sard 700cc Injectors

Now Getting 270rwkw on 1.2bar/18psi

RB25

GT30/40

splitfire coils

45mm ITS gate

GReddy intake

80mm TB

550cc Inj

EMS Stinger

blah blah blah

made 270rwkw @ 18psi on ovaboost dyno (through a built auto), so its very reliable accurate power =D

Insane to drive, over 150kg of stereo gear in boot and have no traction in 1st + 2nd

Short list of mods:

RB25det spec 2

GT3582R .82ar

Jun style intake

90mm throttle body

550cc Delphi top feed low impedance injectors

JGY fuel rail

Aeromotive FPR

Walbro 255hp fuel pump

Tial 44mm v band waste gate

Hallman boost controller

3" ss turbo back exhaust

Top mount exhaust manifold

Apexi Safc 2

Apexi ITC

93 pump gas

Spec stage 3 clutch

Synchronic BOV

FMIC

Z32 MAF blow threw

This is a 2698lb with driver in it 240sx.

We had some problems with the boost creep so we could only set it at 11 psi but as you can see it creped up to 13.5 or so at about 6100 rpms. Also had some problems with my coil packs.

This is wheel horse power not in shoot out mode.

Correction factors were

77deg. F

60% humidity

60" of mercury

Intake temp was 90deg F

Car pulls like mad all the way to red line. I am very happy with the car as is but I'll more then likely pull the exhaust manifold off and fix the creep problem.

post-42695-1206654216_thumb.jpg

post-42695-1206654236_thumb.jpg

Edited by JonTurpening

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...