Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

I am curently wrecking my complied R32 GTSt due to unfixable chasie fatigue. Please contact me if you need any bits. Motor is still in shell and would suite rebuild. Sory no gear box or rear drivetrain. Still have all doors and interior, glass and all the other goodies you coulp expect on a complied R32 shell.

Please contact me at [email protected]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64405-wrecking-complied-r32-gtst/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

email replied

In addition, the ecu in the car has been re mapped to make 200kw on 16psi with z32 afm. If someone is intrested in the ecu I will happly get it remapped back to stock settings. You would then have the option to get it remapped for more performance in the future.

UP DATE

Buyers will need to incure all postage and shipping costs if not picking parts up.

I have replied to all PM's, Posts and Emails so far

Thanks for your intrest

PARTS ON HOLD SO FAR

Rear Seats

RHF Indicator

Rear Shocks

Battery Holder Bracket

Front and rear ash tray

Drivers kick pannel

Front drain cover thingie at base of windscreen

Instrument cluster

Pasenger seat belt and buckle

Cross Member

Speedo cable

Steering rack

Sunvisors

Rear inerior trim

Drivers swith cluster

Steering wheel

Boot lining

Side skirts

Parcle shelf

Drivers door glass

Pasenger door trim

Rear lights

how bout the radiator fan, fan clutch and shroud. also what sideskirts are they and what conditon are they in? i know you have them on hold but ill be interested if they dont sell.

thanks....brett

oh by the way i need all of it shipped to brisbane, post code 4163

what do you want for the passenger door internals (ie all the bits that operate and align the power window, without the glass)

or

if you're not willing to separate, cost for passenger door? complete (minus glass and door trims)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...