Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hmm, not many people mentioning continentals.

The tyre shop at my work supplies them, can get them for a pretty decent price too. The manager said they are a damn good tyre, so im going to have to give them a go sometime.

Continental sport contact 2"s.For a big horsepower road gtr these are the the choice.(also AMG and twin turbo Porsche tyre of choice). I have tried various brands and several years ago was advised by Keir Wilson to try the Conti"s.(I crewed for him for the first 2 1/2 years).They are the only tyre he would have on his E55,and his twin turbo porsche and his recomendation for a quick street GTR.A cheaper tyre may feel great on an average vehicle but nearly all i have tried have verged on dangerous on my gtr. My 2 cents worth.

I had Dunlop FM901's on my big heavy v8 commodore, and as I got more comfortable, I was able to throw it hard around tight s-bends around 80km/hr and they didn't complain one bit!

They got replaced by the DZ101s, which a couple of people (me included) have used and been similarly impressed with them.

Too bad Dunlop's getting rid of the DZ101's too, and not replacing them with another series.

Ive heard that Potenza RE01's are a good tire for 3 track days and regular driving included in between.This was on a BA XR8.

Still as they near their end i am told that they are good.

The only complaint that ive heard is that when they loose the outer tread,they loose a bit of their conering ability.

They are arround $460 a pop retail.:P

Edited by Trust33

Im just about to take the plung on some Toyo T1R's, holly sh!t the boss is going to have kittens.

275 x 35 x 18, hold on $520 a corner!

They better be as good as everyone says they are.

Toyo T1R's are great, After 100Km I have to rate them better then my Yoka Aspecs and the piolot sprots I had on the 33. Im very happy.

Toyo T1R

9/10 Dry

9/10 Wet

6/10 Value (They do cost a bit)

Yoka Aspec

7/10 Dry

8/10 Wet

10/10 Value (1/2 the cost of the T1R)

Mich Piolot Sports

8/10 Dry

9/10 Wet

6/10 Value ( Very expensive)

Absolutely the FK451 they are great tyres.

But make sure they actually put the right ones on. Tempe twice quoted me a price for FK451, then fitted the POS 326s. Then claimed I had asked for 326 in the first place and quoted me another, higher, price for 451s :P

Come see us at Unit 1/97 betts rd Smithfield 2164

For all your tyre needs we have all brands and also sell good condition second hand tyres

I believe you need to speak to Blitz if you want to advertise your services here or in other areas of this forum.

Anyone had any experience with Goodyear Revspec RS-02's?

There was a good review on them in the Wheels tyre comparison article early this year, yet it doesn't seem like anyone on here is using them.

I got relatively good price quote for them ($1154 for all 4 corners), but am I better off spending a bit extra to get the Toyo T1R's ($1370 for all 4) as it seems like quite a few people on here rate them...

Tyres will be going on an R33 GTST (front: 235/45/17, rear: 255/40/17) with around 270rwkw.

Can anyone help? :rolleyes:

Absolutely the FK451 they are great tyres.

But make sure they actually put the right ones on.  Tempe twice quoted me a price for FK451, then fitted the POS 326s.  Then claimed I had asked for 326 in the first place and quoted me another, higher, price for 451s :D

I have heard that one before, good ol' tempe tyres :P

Whats a good price or the falken ziex, I was quoted 160 early in the year. This is for 225/50/16.

Or what is a beter tyre in that size under the 200 mark that has good grip and good tyre life.

Well here is my 2yen about that.....

There is absolutely no point in buying a great performance car and then putting crap tyres on them. And the Falken 326 are crap. They are basically among the cheapest tyres that you can get in big low profile sizes so compliers fit them on a lot of freshly imported cars.

The difference between a bad road tyre and a good road tyre is amazing, you really can feel it and you will enjoy your car heaps more with decent tyres.

So.....enough crapping on....I am saying don't spend 250ea on tyres + 1000 on an intercooler, spend 500ea on tyres instead you will love the difference.

Anyone that has been in a car on the track on race tyres will know what I mean about the difference ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...