Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I need new tyres for my R33 GTS-4 (non-turbo 4wd).

Current tyres are 225/50/16 Sava Intensa, which seem to give adequate traction for my car.

I can get the same ones (Sava) for around $180each?

Cheaper Nankangs for around $120each

Or something like Goodyear Eagle F1s for $210each

They're the 3 I was told about today anyway.

Any suggestions?

Car is just a daily driver obviously and I want something that has decent grip in the wet too. Current tyres aren't too bad in the wet, it will only slide in the rain if you make it (obviously 4wd makes it harder).

I get $10 off a tyre, so F1s would be $800 fitted and balanced, which is probably the most I would want to spend.

I don't really want to get a cheaper tyre than my current Sava's so probably wont get the Nankangs but might consider the F1s if they are good?

Yeah thats definitely them. They cost good money as well.

I'd have to go with Duncan on the SP-9000's. I also found them an excellent road tyre, and would definatly use them again.

You must have got a bad tyre, incorrect suspension setup or tyre pressures to be unhappy with these.

I'd have to go with Duncan on the SP-9000's.  I also found them an excellent road tyre, and would definatly use them again.

You must have got a bad tyre, incorrect suspension setup or tyre pressures to be unhappy with these.

Hi Scotsman, my wheel alignment was done at East Coast Suspension which is supposed to be good. I have since found out though that I was not entirely fair on the sp9000's as I have never really liked the front end of my car and that was due to the front spring rates not being hard enough, the standard (too hard) bump stops and the whiteline swaybars being incorrectly set. I have had the bars fixed and it has made a big difference but it is bottoming out in the front all the time (only lowered 1 inch). Its not really obvious but you can feel it and it makes the car very nervous on imperfect surfaces (read: sydney roads).

I just need to get the custom springs made up and I have a funny feeling my opinion of the 9000's will change.

Hi all,

Just purchased an r34 GTT sedan, currently on bridgestone import tyres and handles great! Unfortunately I need to buy new tyres and am overwhelmed by the options including width, price etc.

Given that most half decent 225,45,17's start at $225+

Could someone provide some feedback on width?

I am running stock rims and unsure if I would get improved ride/handling by running wider rears? eg. 235 fronts and 245 rears?

Thanks...

I currently have Michelen Primacy, which are top of the range Michellen tyres.. Even tho i have bought second hand tyres, the grip on them is just to good.. They really stick onto the road.. even tho with 50% thread left, im really happy..

Got the primacy on z32 rims, with 215s/55/16s..

Worth checking out the primacy range.. But $$$$..

im digging into my pocket again for two tyre's

i bought some wide ovals for the front and i am happy with them but i cant get over the feel of my car with toyo tpg's on it's so gripy an with lots of rain coming down i dont even worry about slideing. @ $205 for 17's its a bit pricey the toyo 16's only cost me $165 its a big jump in price for one inch bigger rim delemas delemas

Nankang... they've done about 5,000kms, a track day of... "drift" (not overly, more grip sessions, but all 20min sessions and they still look and drive fine) have good grip in wet, and are... relative in the dry. HOWEVER, IMO all problems aside with every tyre I've ever tried is to do with varying power levels, driving conditions and how much abuse they sustain, also, suspension/braking and so on... as you can't really do a back to back test unless taking them to the track of a stack of lap and then comparing etc... SO there are a lot of variables when trying to compare tyres I think.

Cheers

Grant.

Just wanted to put a word in for the Bridgestone S-03s. These have done over 10,000 km on my car now and I just took them to a track day at Queensland Raceway where they did more than 30 laps (5 lap stints).

They're wearing ok (-1.5deg camber on the rear) and probably have about 5000km left in them, maybe more if I rotate them across the rear. They handled the track day well and didn't crap themselves though the front left looks a lot more average now than it did a week ago. :lol:

By lap 5 of each stint they were feeling a bit soggy but that's to be expected with a road tyre I guess.

I cannot say enough for these tyres in the dry, they are just so predictable and grippy. They're not so hot in the wet (sideways in 4th gear on the freeway, anyone?) but I am running about 240-ish rwkw with a 255mm width on the rear so they have their work cut out.

So yes they were freaking expensive but I'm not feeling overly ripped off. Next time I will probably try the Toyo T1Rs or those Revspec things (if I can find them) or maybe the Hankooks, but only if they're significantly cheaper than another set of S-03s. :(

Has anyone tried the S-03 vs something else?

hmm i thought primacy range were top of the list.. they are like 395bucks each tyre.. isnt that expensive..

I also have piolts hx on the fronts.. They are alright tyres as well, but they are getting really old, you can see marks on the tyres..

How much does the sport and the preceda cost?? Do they have more grip than primacy tyres??

hmm i thought primacy range were top of the list.. they are like 395bucks each tyre.. isnt that expensive..

I also have piolts hx on the fronts.. They are alright tyres as well, but they are getting really old, you can see marks on the tyres..

How much does the sport and the preceda cost?? Do they have more grip than primacy tyres??

nope just have a look on the michelin web site if u want more details. they are expensive but pilot sports are even more expensive :P and yes sports would have more grip for sure plus other sporty qualities.

Whoooohoooo :D

Just got my new T1R's on. I got 235/45ZR17 all round but found out i could have gotten 255 on the rear. The d@ckheads who serviced the car previously (before i owned it) had rotated the tyres. They put the 17x8 on the front and the 17x7 on the rear, thought it felt like crap.

Feels good so far but havent really tested them :D

The guy also mentioned that i should get a camber kit as one side is 1.3 and the other 2.

btw - Paying between 250-400 per tyres isn't exp to me, anything over that is though. Heard somone paid approx $800 per corner for pirelli 265/30's on 18 or 19 inch rims, no thats exp

:laugh: and yes sports would have more grip for sure plus other sporty qualities.

FUNNY - how so may I ask?? LOL

Just a point, I ran Pilot Sport for $220 (rear wheel, 17inch) on my Fireblade, and now run Pilot Power ($280). The Power is far superior to the Sport, and the Sport is a model that is around 3yrs old in the motorcycle industry... so maybe the Sport in car tyres is the older model, with Primecy being the latest model?

FUNNY - how so may I ask?? LOL

Just a point, I ran Pilot Sport for $220 (rear wheel, 17inch) on my Fireblade, and now run Pilot Power ($280). The Power is far superior to the Sport, and the Sport is a model that is around 3yrs old in the motorcycle industry... so maybe the Sport in car tyres is the older model, with Primecy being the latest model?

How so? well what i mean by sporty qualities is that they will last longer before turning to mush, grip more, and have stiffer sidewalls that improves grip and steering feel etc etc.

for cars its different, sport is the better one just look at the michelin website if u want to see for yourself :)

About to gat a set of 4 tyres, 235/45/17 for a budget of exactly $200 per corner.

Probably going to go the Hankook 104's for that price.... but what else compares to the 104's in regards to wet weather grip & matching price?

Cheers! :sorcerer:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...