Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My 99 Stagea S2 rear rotors one side is crack! Need change, but i couldn't find any rear rotors for sale for my S2 stagea, they mostly sell rear rotors for M35 or just front rotors only, anyone please tell me where i can buy? Even second also ok f ok for me, i am from Melbourne. THx guys, pls.

My 99 Stagea S2 rear rotors one side is crack! Need change, but i couldn't find any rear rotors for sale for my S2 stagea, they mostly sell rear rotors for M35 or just front rotors only, anyone please tell me where i can buy? Even second also ok f ok for me, i am from Melbourne. THx guys, pls.

I just had the same prob with an S1. Finally got a set from ebay.

Try DBA site or go to Supercheap with Vin No.

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

G'day, ok getting pretty tired of stock brakes with Bendix pads same as X-trail.

Looking at some V35 Brembos from a wrecker.

How do I tell if the rotors have any life left in them ?

Might get ripped off.

cheers

G'day, ok getting pretty tired of stock brakes with Bendix pads same as X-trail.

Looking at some V35 Brembos from a wrecker.

How do I tell if the rotors have any life left in them ?

Might get ripped off.

cheers

Nominal rotor thickness is 30mm; lower limit after machining is probably 28mm.

You'll need pair of vernier calipers to measure accurately.

Used V35 Brembos

Is $1400 too much for a full set ?

Near new slotted discs.

cheers

For a complete set it's probably about as good as you'll do; I've seen tards asking $1k for just the fronts, with worn out rotors.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Yes this thread is way too long, with 90% unanswered questions and lots of facts without type of Stagea there for etc. I guess a majority of people no longer have a mighty Stagea in their garage.

I have a Stagea S2 1999 model, I've done about 200K probably on original rotors. I think im overdue for a new rotor and pad combo.

I've changed the pads twice since i've owned it.

Front pads: Once with GSL Rallysport GSL009 HP-X and once with Remsa 0852 14 (Renault Koleos 06.08, Nissan Murano).

Rear pads: Once with GSL Rallysport QDB1399 HP-X and once with Bendix DB1399GCT.

If I can find some rotors i'll probably go to GSL Rallysport again.

Otherwise I might try the upgrade option. I have some R32 GTR calipers and 4 piston alloy Calipers (I think from Z32 turbo). I also have R34 GTT rims on it so probably not a bad option.

On Ebay you can get Rotor and pad packages for Stagea 1996-2001. But I think this is a typo and only for series 1 (1996-1998).

  • Like 1

Yes this thread is way too long, with 90% unanswered questions and lots of facts without type of Stagea there for etc. I guess a majority of people no longer have a mighty Stagea in their garage.

I have a Stagea S2 1999 model, I've done about 200K probably on original rotors. I think im overdue for a new rotor and pad combo.

I've changed the pads twice since i've owned it.

Front pads: Once with GSL Rallysport GSL009 HP-X and once with Remsa 0852 14 (Renault Koleos 06.08, Nissan Murano).

Rear pads: Once with GSL Rallysport QDB1399 HP-X and once with Bendix DB1399GCT.

If I can find some rotors i'll probably go to GSL Rallysport again.

Otherwise I might try the upgrade option. I have some R32 GTR calipers and 4 piston alloy Calipers (I think from Z32 turbo). I also have R34 GTT rims on it so probably not a bad option.

On Ebay you can get Rotor and pad packages for Stagea 1996-2001. But I think this is a typo and only for series 1 (1996-1998).

Just wondering if Auto/Manual or RWD/AWD makes a difference at all.

Just fitted new slotted and dimpled rotors with QFM HPX pads

Also had the Brembos fully serviced. Awesome braking.

I have a slight whirring sound and pedal feel when they are hot.

Hoping this is just still symptoms of bedding in, and not something that comes with dimpled rotors...

Anyone noticed the same ?

Funny I did research before I bought them.

Nothing about noise/feel just positives on cooler rotors and pads.

My stockers were slotted fronts and did the same thing, I thought is was shit pads.

I didn't buy them to look cool, just went on performance forums opinions.

Have you ever heard a girl say "mmmmm, slotted rotors... I think I wanna sleep with you."

I haven't..

So you did research and it said that slots and dimples are better?

That is a shame.

search ferrari brakes on google and try and find one pic of a smooth rotor

here's one chick that does dig cross drilled anyway

post-25026-0-98767000-1450508860_thumb.jpg

Edited by conan7772

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
    • Welcome mate. Any pics? Even with a DE I'd be well happy if I had that as a 1st car. 
×
×
  • Create New...