Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

how many mm spacers? Does the guards need to be rolled? Thanks agian

If it was my car I would be running a 20mm bolt on and flaring and down sizing the tyres to fit. Assuming the rear guards are very similar to that of a r33. I believe rolling is a must do for any wheels you buy, but yes I do think it will need to be done.

But to get them to fit with out alot of major work best way to work out what you will require is to use washers stacked on top of each other on your studs till the wheel no longer fouls on anything, then measure the width of the stack and get spacers the same width.

Neil

Edited by mr_squiggle_1
If it was my car I would be running a 20mm bolt on and flaring and down sizing the tyres to fit. Assuming the rear guards are very similar to that of a r33. I believe rolling is a must do for any wheels you buy, but yes I do think it will need to be done.

But to get them to fit with out alot of major work best way to work out what you will require is to use washers stacked on top of each other on your studs till the wheel no longer fouls on anything, then measure the width of the stack and get spacers the same width.

Neil

hmm never thaought of uding the washers before to measure the spacers needed. Good tip!! Will try that. So i guess once i got the rims and before i go out and buy some wheels i will need to figure out the spacers first?

Hi Guys

Just a thought about branded rims available, i notice Breytons or Carllson rims looks really nice on Continental car like the Mercs or BMW. Are the offset the same to fit an R34 GTT since they also hv 5 lug. Notice the Lexus do share the same sets as the conti's though Wald is a Jap brand. http://www.wald.co.jp/news/back/200706/sab/s33c_2/index.html

Appreciate feedback.

hmm never thaought of uding the washers before to measure the spacers needed. Good tip!! Will try that. So i guess once i got the rims and before i go out and buy some TYRES i will need to figure out the spacers first?

I have modified your post to what I think you meant.

But yes once you have the rims jack the car up, put it on stands and work out what spacer your going to need. To get the wheel up to a similar point to where it will sit when on the ground, use another jack under the rim, throw a rag between the wheel and jack to protect the wheel. That way you can work out the amount of stretch and flare required or not required. Id dare say you may be able to fit the 10 with out any work possibly.

Again if this was me fitting them the 10's would be recieving 235 tyres and spacers to get the stretched tyre to just clear the guard lip, this method will require less guard work then running bigger tyres and have the wheel itself outside the car more (the look I like). I have noticed however on this site that people tend to use bigger tyres then I would, ie 265 on a 10 etc.

Its all up to you and the look you want,

Neil

I have modified your post to what I think you meant.

But yes once you have the rims jack the car up, put it on stands and work out what spacer your going to need. To get the wheel up to a similar point to where it will sit when on the ground, use another jack under the rim, throw a rag between the wheel and jack to protect the wheel. That way you can work out the amount of stretch and flare required or not required. Id dare say you may be able to fit the 10 with out any work possibly.

Again if this was me fitting them the 10's would be recieving 235 tyres and spacers to get the stretched tyre to just clear the guard lip, this method will require less guard work then running bigger tyres and have the wheel itself outside the car more (the look I like). I have noticed however on this site that people tend to use bigger tyres then I would, ie 265 on a 10 etc.

Its all up to you and the look you want,

Neil

opps sorry for the confusion. Yea what i mean are the tyres. As for the rims sizes, i was just actually following what the hyper rev mag refers at the stagea demo cars. But the offset is little bit different. Yea i will certainly try the method you mentioned before i go out and buy spacers and tyres needed.

Im planning to use the Sumitomo HTRZ2 tyres. Pretty good price for them too. Not much difference from Nexen in terms of price wise.

I have some questions for those with 33's. Im hoping to fit some 18 x 10 +20 on the rear of my newly acquired 1998 series 2. But I need to know the inner clearance available. The 10's according to my calculations are going to go back over 234mm from the hub face. Im no concerned with the distance out over from the hub, I expect to have guard work to fit them (dont believe in buying wheels that dont need work to fit). Just need to know if the inner clearance is big enough.

Hopefully some one can have a look/take some measurements for me,

Neil

Hi Guys

This may sound a bit odd but...

Has anyone tried R34 GTT rims (7.5x17 e40) to R32 GT-R?

Also i understand that GTT has these rims all aroud - confirm or correct me please.

On paper it looks like they may fit but i´m little unsure

TIA

  • 3 weeks later...

I have a 1990 Nissan skyline GTS-T Type M

I am getting a staggered set-sup, and DO NOT understand offset...

I am getting 18x8.5 front and 18x9.5 rear

I dont have my rear fenders rolled. any suggestions on wat offest I should go with front? and rear?

Thanks very much

Well just fitted some new wheels to my GTR

Skyline model = R32 GTR

Wheel diameter = 18in

Wheel width = 10in

Wheel offset =+18

Tyre size = 265/35

Modifications to fit = Rears are rolled but i think the wheels maybe rub still with to much weight in the back

I have a 1990 Nissan skyline GTS-T Type M

I am getting a staggered set-sup, and DO NOT understand offset...

I am getting 18x8.5 front and 18x9.5 rear

I dont have my rear fenders rolled. any suggestions on wat offest I should go with front? and rear?

Thanks very much

the rears will need to be rolled regardless of the offset, 9.5 is a very wide rim, if u get enough stretch on your tyres you might JUST tuck +30 under the guard but i would get something like a 17x9 +17 or something like that would look alot tougher :)

  • 2 weeks later...

Skyline model = R32 GTR

Wheel diameter = 18in

Wheel width = 9.5

Wheel offset =+12

Tyre size = 265/35

Modifications to fit = Rolled the rears, remove the front liners and bent the tabs in.

they still dont fit right, the rears stick out past the guards, so not legal :D

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Jd...in-t205654.html

I am looking at buying a set of these wheels for my R33gtst, by looking through this thread I see that 8.5 x 18 are generally offset +30 front and +38 rear but cant seem to judge if 9.5s would be the same or if they are even a good option. Can anyone shed some light for me?

Skyline model = R33 GTST

front

Starcorp rim

Wheel diameter = 18"

Wheel width = 8.5"

Wheel offset = 38mm

Tyre size = 235 x 40 x 18

Modifications to fit = nil - plastic insert still installed. Height of the car is ~355mm centre of wheel to guard (SK's kit)

rear

starcorp rim

Wheel diameter = 18"

Wheel width = 9.5"

Wheel offset = 38mm

Tyre size = 265 x 35 x 18

Modifications to fit = needed to roll the rear guards to prevent scrape. Height of car ~345mm centre of wheel to guard

standard brakes front and rear.

interesting that even when it was 15mm lower than the current height it never scraped with the Cusco coilovers (8kg/mm rear), it's just that all my fillings fell out.

cheers

I have a 1990 Nissan skyline GTS-T Type M

I am getting a staggered set-sup, and DO NOT understand offset...

I am getting 18x8.5 front and 18x9.5 rear

I dont have my rear fenders rolled. any suggestions on wat offest I should go with front? and rear?

Thanks very much

around +40 should put the wheels pretty much dead on with the guards with around -1 degree of camber, if running a 255+ you may need a guard roll. with 18's you can go higher offset at the rear as it will clear the rear toe arms unlike 17's. for the front i would run around a +30 to be safe, around that kind of inner clearance ur looking at fouling issue with the upper control arm.

what u guys reckon about this.. 18x9.5 +17 for r32 gtst?

i have 17x9 +30 at the moment front tyres are 225 and rears are 255 and i have no problems at all!

cheers

if your game for some guard pulling go for it, this is a 17x9 +16 with a 225/45 and -2.5ish camber, if you run a 225/45 on the 9.5" u should be able to make it with a decent roll and -2ish camber.

heres the 17x9 +17:

http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/9894/dscn9843mr0.jpg

Skyline model = 1989 S3 R31 sedan

Front wheels = Custom Made ROH adrenalin 3 piece wheel

Wheel diameter = 18"

Wheel width = 9"

Wheel offset = +/- 0, now with 25 mm bolt on spacer, so effectivly -25

Tyre size = 215 x 45 x 18

Modifications to fit = Heavily flared front guards done with roller (2 inch flare) 3 deg camber (S13 coilovers), stretched tyres, 10KG front spring rate

Rear wheels = Custom Made ROH adrenalin 3 piece

Wheel diameter = 18"

Wheel width = 10"

Wheel offset = +5

Tyre size = 225 x 45 x 18

Modifications to fit = Even Heavier flared guards done with 20 pound hammer, and copious amounts of fibreglass and filler/ 8KG rear coilovers with dampners wound up, super stretched tyres.

Car is very low, and Id have maybe 3-5mm clearence on the rears, a little more on the front. But she still doesnt scrape anywhere.

I have a 1990 Nissan skyline GTS-T Type M

I am getting a staggered set-sup, and DO NOT understand offset...

I am getting 18x8.5 front and 18x9.5 rear

I dont have my rear fenders rolled. any suggestions on wat offest I should go with front? and rear?

Thanks very much

I have 19x8.5 +35 front with a 235 tyre, fits nicely, i do how ever have rolled guards.

Rears are 19x9.5 +38 with 265 tyres and rolled guards. I may get the rears guards slightly pumped so that i can lower it a little bit more.

post-24581-1204618304_thumb.jpg

Edited by SNISMO

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...