Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Welcome!

Those sizes are fine, it's good enough for Nismo.

But, it depends on what look you are after.

Have a look here:

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/311136-r34-gtt-wheel-register/

http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2006109&postcount=78

Thanks Man! Great threads to look at!

If your doing more mods down the track lowering etc I'd go more aggressive

Open to suggestions! I am not really going for major mods at this point... sort of just getting used to the car :D But who knows!

If you want to "stance" your car, then yes definitely need more aggressive sizes and offsets.

I see... well, I think I will just go for the "regular" look for now. I will not lower the car too much in the near future (our roads are rubbish!)

Will a 18 9x5 +30 work well for the rears?

I see... well, I think I will just go for the "regular" look for now. I will not lower the car too much in the near future (our roads are rubbish!)

Will a 18 9x5 +30 work well for the rears?

Yes.

G'Day! Well, it is done:

Work Ultimate Kiwami 18x8.5 +30F wrapped in 235/40/18 and 18X9.5 +38R wrapped in 255/35/18. Bronze with red caps and lugs.

Thanks for the pointers, everyone! I will put up pictures when done in about a week.

Carlos Ch.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hello everyone. I am new to this page. Just bought my first skyline. I have a 89 r32 gts. I'm about to buy a set of wheels for it. I'm going to lower it after I get wheels and tires. Question is picking out the right size set up. Will 17x8 et25 work? Also what size tire should I go with then. Don't want to rub on anything. If that set up will not work can some one direct me in the right direction for set up that will work with out rubbing. Thanks guys

Hello everyone. I am new to this page. Just bought my first skyline. I have a 89 r32 gts. I'm about to buy a set of wheels for it. I'm going to lower it after I get wheels and tires. Question is picking out the right size set up. Will 17x8 et25 work? Also what size tire should I go with then. Don't want to rub on anything. If that set up will not work can some one direct me in the right direction for set up that will work with out rubbing. Thanks guys

Are you using adjustable c/o's? If not and just using a sport spring and shock combo, you should lower it first to your desired ride height and go from there. Also remember that cambering in will change fitments too. For the question about an 8 wide with 25 offset, start at page one here on this page thread. You may change your mind on that size after reading more and seeing others fitments.

I will be using coilovers in the near future. It's just on stock suspension. I have looked through page 1-135 so far and I haven't seen anyone using +25. I'm not good with this type of stuff. I also didn't want a set up were my wheels stuck out past my fenders. So how do you think this set up would look on a gts? Good ? Bad? 17x8 +25 also size for front and rear tires?

Thanks again

17x8 +30 17x9 +35

Those are the usual sizes that fit.

Look up the offset calculator and then make measurements on your car to "see" how the sizes would sit.

Or, look up pictures of cars with R33 GT-R wheels (17x9 +30) and go from there.

Thanks for the reply. The only reason I was asking is because the wheels I want only come in those sizes. So you don't think those wheels will look right?

They'll be right. I run 17x9 (+25 or +22 cant remember for sure) and they are ok. They do not sit outside the fenders so your 8" wide rims should be ok

Amir

Well, after a little bit of an ordeal, the wheels are on.

Work Emotion Kiwami 18x8.5 +30 Front and 18x9.5 +38 Rear. Tires 235/40-18 Front and 255/35-18 Rear. No mods that I am aware of... yet again the car already had some aftermarket wheels (SSR, 17's) and since this is pretty much the only one here, I have no comparison point for suspension height. Guards are not rolled, I checked...

i-p27CQxz-L.jpg

i-dTjwxct-L.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
    • I didn't actually try it at the time but a Launch X431 with the appropriate software licenses/upsell will have the ABS bleed function. The Consult II you can still find some old sets of equipment but they're really, really expensive:   
    • Well I'll start by saying I'm not an engineer. I am going to go with the KiwiCNC ones.  They are made of 7050 alloy have good fillets and radius.  The material alone is in the order of double the strength and fatigue resistance - Those bolts, once torqued correctly place most of the load at the flat face of the mating surface - the 'stretch' you're talking about through torqueing them up would be far more than the extra stretch 'load' placed on them from a steering input or bump. (in my opinion) so I doubt they would flinch.    - but again "not an engineer".      oh and I don't think stitch welding 7050 is a good idea, likely just weaken the material (from what I read)
×
×
  • Create New...