Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

how many mm spacers? Does the guards need to be rolled? Thanks agian

If it was my car I would be running a 20mm bolt on and flaring and down sizing the tyres to fit. Assuming the rear guards are very similar to that of a r33. I believe rolling is a must do for any wheels you buy, but yes I do think it will need to be done.

But to get them to fit with out alot of major work best way to work out what you will require is to use washers stacked on top of each other on your studs till the wheel no longer fouls on anything, then measure the width of the stack and get spacers the same width.

Neil

Edited by mr_squiggle_1
If it was my car I would be running a 20mm bolt on and flaring and down sizing the tyres to fit. Assuming the rear guards are very similar to that of a r33. I believe rolling is a must do for any wheels you buy, but yes I do think it will need to be done.

But to get them to fit with out alot of major work best way to work out what you will require is to use washers stacked on top of each other on your studs till the wheel no longer fouls on anything, then measure the width of the stack and get spacers the same width.

Neil

hmm never thaought of uding the washers before to measure the spacers needed. Good tip!! Will try that. So i guess once i got the rims and before i go out and buy some wheels i will need to figure out the spacers first?

Hi Guys

Just a thought about branded rims available, i notice Breytons or Carllson rims looks really nice on Continental car like the Mercs or BMW. Are the offset the same to fit an R34 GTT since they also hv 5 lug. Notice the Lexus do share the same sets as the conti's though Wald is a Jap brand. http://www.wald.co.jp/news/back/200706/sab/s33c_2/index.html

Appreciate feedback.

hmm never thaought of uding the washers before to measure the spacers needed. Good tip!! Will try that. So i guess once i got the rims and before i go out and buy some TYRES i will need to figure out the spacers first?

I have modified your post to what I think you meant.

But yes once you have the rims jack the car up, put it on stands and work out what spacer your going to need. To get the wheel up to a similar point to where it will sit when on the ground, use another jack under the rim, throw a rag between the wheel and jack to protect the wheel. That way you can work out the amount of stretch and flare required or not required. Id dare say you may be able to fit the 10 with out any work possibly.

Again if this was me fitting them the 10's would be recieving 235 tyres and spacers to get the stretched tyre to just clear the guard lip, this method will require less guard work then running bigger tyres and have the wheel itself outside the car more (the look I like). I have noticed however on this site that people tend to use bigger tyres then I would, ie 265 on a 10 etc.

Its all up to you and the look you want,

Neil

I have modified your post to what I think you meant.

But yes once you have the rims jack the car up, put it on stands and work out what spacer your going to need. To get the wheel up to a similar point to where it will sit when on the ground, use another jack under the rim, throw a rag between the wheel and jack to protect the wheel. That way you can work out the amount of stretch and flare required or not required. Id dare say you may be able to fit the 10 with out any work possibly.

Again if this was me fitting them the 10's would be recieving 235 tyres and spacers to get the stretched tyre to just clear the guard lip, this method will require less guard work then running bigger tyres and have the wheel itself outside the car more (the look I like). I have noticed however on this site that people tend to use bigger tyres then I would, ie 265 on a 10 etc.

Its all up to you and the look you want,

Neil

opps sorry for the confusion. Yea what i mean are the tyres. As for the rims sizes, i was just actually following what the hyper rev mag refers at the stagea demo cars. But the offset is little bit different. Yea i will certainly try the method you mentioned before i go out and buy spacers and tyres needed.

Im planning to use the Sumitomo HTRZ2 tyres. Pretty good price for them too. Not much difference from Nexen in terms of price wise.

I have some questions for those with 33's. Im hoping to fit some 18 x 10 +20 on the rear of my newly acquired 1998 series 2. But I need to know the inner clearance available. The 10's according to my calculations are going to go back over 234mm from the hub face. Im no concerned with the distance out over from the hub, I expect to have guard work to fit them (dont believe in buying wheels that dont need work to fit). Just need to know if the inner clearance is big enough.

Hopefully some one can have a look/take some measurements for me,

Neil

Hi Guys

This may sound a bit odd but...

Has anyone tried R34 GTT rims (7.5x17 e40) to R32 GT-R?

Also i understand that GTT has these rims all aroud - confirm or correct me please.

On paper it looks like they may fit but i´m little unsure

TIA

  • 3 weeks later...

I have a 1990 Nissan skyline GTS-T Type M

I am getting a staggered set-sup, and DO NOT understand offset...

I am getting 18x8.5 front and 18x9.5 rear

I dont have my rear fenders rolled. any suggestions on wat offest I should go with front? and rear?

Thanks very much

Well just fitted some new wheels to my GTR

Skyline model = R32 GTR

Wheel diameter = 18in

Wheel width = 10in

Wheel offset =+18

Tyre size = 265/35

Modifications to fit = Rears are rolled but i think the wheels maybe rub still with to much weight in the back

I have a 1990 Nissan skyline GTS-T Type M

I am getting a staggered set-sup, and DO NOT understand offset...

I am getting 18x8.5 front and 18x9.5 rear

I dont have my rear fenders rolled. any suggestions on wat offest I should go with front? and rear?

Thanks very much

the rears will need to be rolled regardless of the offset, 9.5 is a very wide rim, if u get enough stretch on your tyres you might JUST tuck +30 under the guard but i would get something like a 17x9 +17 or something like that would look alot tougher :)

  • 2 weeks later...

Skyline model = R32 GTR

Wheel diameter = 18in

Wheel width = 9.5

Wheel offset =+12

Tyre size = 265/35

Modifications to fit = Rolled the rears, remove the front liners and bent the tabs in.

they still dont fit right, the rears stick out past the guards, so not legal :D

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Jd...in-t205654.html

I am looking at buying a set of these wheels for my R33gtst, by looking through this thread I see that 8.5 x 18 are generally offset +30 front and +38 rear but cant seem to judge if 9.5s would be the same or if they are even a good option. Can anyone shed some light for me?

Skyline model = R33 GTST

front

Starcorp rim

Wheel diameter = 18"

Wheel width = 8.5"

Wheel offset = 38mm

Tyre size = 235 x 40 x 18

Modifications to fit = nil - plastic insert still installed. Height of the car is ~355mm centre of wheel to guard (SK's kit)

rear

starcorp rim

Wheel diameter = 18"

Wheel width = 9.5"

Wheel offset = 38mm

Tyre size = 265 x 35 x 18

Modifications to fit = needed to roll the rear guards to prevent scrape. Height of car ~345mm centre of wheel to guard

standard brakes front and rear.

interesting that even when it was 15mm lower than the current height it never scraped with the Cusco coilovers (8kg/mm rear), it's just that all my fillings fell out.

cheers

I have a 1990 Nissan skyline GTS-T Type M

I am getting a staggered set-sup, and DO NOT understand offset...

I am getting 18x8.5 front and 18x9.5 rear

I dont have my rear fenders rolled. any suggestions on wat offest I should go with front? and rear?

Thanks very much

around +40 should put the wheels pretty much dead on with the guards with around -1 degree of camber, if running a 255+ you may need a guard roll. with 18's you can go higher offset at the rear as it will clear the rear toe arms unlike 17's. for the front i would run around a +30 to be safe, around that kind of inner clearance ur looking at fouling issue with the upper control arm.

what u guys reckon about this.. 18x9.5 +17 for r32 gtst?

i have 17x9 +30 at the moment front tyres are 225 and rears are 255 and i have no problems at all!

cheers

if your game for some guard pulling go for it, this is a 17x9 +16 with a 225/45 and -2.5ish camber, if you run a 225/45 on the 9.5" u should be able to make it with a decent roll and -2ish camber.

heres the 17x9 +17:

http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/9894/dscn9843mr0.jpg

Skyline model = 1989 S3 R31 sedan

Front wheels = Custom Made ROH adrenalin 3 piece wheel

Wheel diameter = 18"

Wheel width = 9"

Wheel offset = +/- 0, now with 25 mm bolt on spacer, so effectivly -25

Tyre size = 215 x 45 x 18

Modifications to fit = Heavily flared front guards done with roller (2 inch flare) 3 deg camber (S13 coilovers), stretched tyres, 10KG front spring rate

Rear wheels = Custom Made ROH adrenalin 3 piece

Wheel diameter = 18"

Wheel width = 10"

Wheel offset = +5

Tyre size = 225 x 45 x 18

Modifications to fit = Even Heavier flared guards done with 20 pound hammer, and copious amounts of fibreglass and filler/ 8KG rear coilovers with dampners wound up, super stretched tyres.

Car is very low, and Id have maybe 3-5mm clearence on the rears, a little more on the front. But she still doesnt scrape anywhere.

I have a 1990 Nissan skyline GTS-T Type M

I am getting a staggered set-sup, and DO NOT understand offset...

I am getting 18x8.5 front and 18x9.5 rear

I dont have my rear fenders rolled. any suggestions on wat offest I should go with front? and rear?

Thanks very much

I have 19x8.5 +35 front with a 235 tyre, fits nicely, i do how ever have rolled guards.

Rears are 19x9.5 +38 with 265 tyres and rolled guards. I may get the rears guards slightly pumped so that i can lower it a little bit more.

post-24581-1204618304_thumb.jpg

Edited by SNISMO

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nice, thanks for sharing your progress....that's a pretty long list you are putting into it!
    • Decided to upgrade my pressurised plastic coolant expansion tank for a fancy pants alloy version The OEM versions can get brittle, even the new plastic one I got when I first got the car is a starting to show signs of "stress" I wasn't cheap, but it is basically unbreakable
    • Morning all, I have an RB25DET Neo that's in need of a rebuild. Will need new pistons etc due to detonation damage. Would anyone be able to recommend a shop in Southeast Queensland who I could bring my long motor to for a rebuild? Just want someone who knows RBs and whos built a bunch of them before. TLDR - recommended engine shops for RB rebuild.
    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
    • Losses have to be less with DC coupling. Provided the battery inverter has decent MPP tracking ability - which really shouldn't be a problem. It's not 2005 any more.
×
×
  • Create New...