Jump to content
SAU Community

Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines


Recommended Posts

Where is it scrubbing? It shouldn't be with those tyre sizes. The offset seems a bit high, might be scrubbing the front part of the plastic guard cover (if you're running high caster).

FYI I'm running 275/35/18 on 18x10+20, just touches the bit where the bumper is mounted to the guard (rolled guards). I could just raise the car to stop it :P.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quick question:

Will 18x9.5 +23 fit the front of an R33 without rolling or removing the splash guards? Looking at running either 225/40 or 235/40.

I've got no issue with rolling the rear guards but I don't want to mess up the front. Car sits with about 2-3cm between tyre and arch so not super low.

Currently running 18x9 +30 with no scrubbing at all.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quick question:

Will 18x9.5 +23 fit the front of an R33 without rolling or removing the splash guards? Looking at running either 225/40 or 235/40.

I've got no issue with rolling the rear guards but I don't want to mess up the front. Car sits with about 2-3cm between tyre and arch so not super low.

Currently running 18x9 +30 with no scrubbing at all.

Yes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't wanna mess with the guard liner/front guards because a) it looks shit when it's missing and b) shit gets into the quarter behind the wheel. I'd rather just leave it untouched.

You are just rolling the lip on the fender.. Not missing the plastic lining... There are almost no downsides to getting it done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i assume 18 X 9.75 +20 should fit a 32gtr without too many issues?

what would be the preferable tire size?

Edited by GH05T
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys, im in the market for new rims and im a newbie when it comes to offsets so ive come to you guys!

My 33 has not had its guards rolled and sits at a pretty well standard height for the moment but will be putting some BC Coilovers in at the same time or shortly after i get wheels!

wanting to put the following on and Id like to know if i can run them safely without any scrubbing and to clear the struts and calipers and to not be sticking out the guards too much! (or is that too much to ask lol)


Tyres 235/40/R18 all round

Front : 18x8.5 or 18x9.5 + 22 to + 35 (roughly)

Rear 18x9.5 +22 to +30 (either or in between)

im after the most aggressive deep sort of look on my car, so any reccomendations and or opinions would be great!

looking at getting some varrstoen Es3's or Es6's or some Rotas..im too undecided there all so good!

Cheers!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I think I've finally decided on a wheel size that I want for my R34 gtt 18x9.5+20 all round. (Now just need to find some BBS RGR's)

The thing is, I wanted to go with the same tyre size all around too, I couldn't find anyone or anything on the forum, but has anyone run 255/35 on the fronts? Closest I've seen was 245

Edited by tiddyd
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmm say I could squeeze a 255 under the fronts without any scrubbing, I think that would be perfect in my opinion.

I rather it not stretched, even in the slightest, but thats just me i guess lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A big issue with these is, unlike the R200, diffs are super expensive. The Blacklines are about €800, Quaife is €1,300-1,500 and any clutch LSD is the best part of €2,000. Have a look on some of the BMW forums, the Blackline has really good reviews for track use - I’m sure not if you’re subjecting it to extreme high performance - but it’s enough for me to go for it. 
    • Hi mate! yeah as far as I can remember u need to rotate the motor in the correct position and then mount the arms (linkage). the motor always does the same movement.  u need to think yourself into and try it a couple times. i think my mounting position was was 90 degrees horizontally pointed to the right side if you are looking at it from the front of your car but not sure anymore   best way to double check it is do draw the motion on a sheet of paper and connect the motor to really see how it moves
    • Hi mate, did you work this out? I have the same issue with my 32!  Cheers
    • I currently have someone who is interested in buying the rear set, plus he has asked me to quote him on an equivalent front set, new of course.   I'll post up what a new set would cost and you can make a decision then. I noted a bit of discussion on spring rates versus swaybar rates, Duncan has explained my approach very well.  What I would add is that if you have high spring rates then it is a PIA to change them if you want to, say, do a track day.  Whereas with adj swaybars it's a much easier task. Plus if you find that there is an imbalance in the handling (oversteer vs understeer preference for you) it is relatively easy to change the balance with adj of the swaybars, again much more difficult with springs.  On the race cars we don't change spring rates all that often, we do however change damper rates frequently, high speed vs low speed bump and rebound independently.  A tuning task not for the inexperienced, driver or engineer.  Driver adj swaybars are adj frequently, several times in 20 minute race is not unusual.   Cheers Gary
    • Yes. The difference between a $1k centre and a $2k centre is not worth it when the whole exercise will cost double that anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...