Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah tires will be fine

spacers are illigal in some states

i wouldnt worry about the 8mm on the rear, just run a bolt on up front

or get the gktech spacers that come with bolt and slip ons to get the perfect offset

Thanks guys for the help, I guess I will look into running spacers on the front rims.(only coz I can't afford 1k for new rims right now)..with the 17x9+38 on the rears I prob have like mayb 5-10mm space between strut and inside tyre wall, so not sure if its worth the extra $200 to shift the rim 8mm outwards lol I guess I will try to find out if spacers are illegal in WA before i do anything , thanks again :)

  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, so i spoke to my local Ttf store and they suggested that 235/45/17 tyres would be good on a 17x8 rim as on the 9" rim they are stretched and that's bad for traction/handeling in awd? Does offset change if I go down to a 8inch rim? Cheers

  • 4 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Ok last night had the best idear and put some 20X11 + 13 on the rear of my m35 axis but even with the 6 deg of camber I got its still going to need a little bit of guard work

Not 100% about using that 11" wide as don't think there is anyway I would get them on the other end

Didnt you say in the other post you have a wobble in rear end. Could tyre width have something to do with it?

Ok ATM I have 225 tires on both the 8 and the 9" wide rim both 45 profile

So if I keep my rolling diameters the same I should be sweet??

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...