Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 155
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 2 weeks later...

Another excellent caliper painting thread here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p;hl=duplicolor

The paint schmiddy suggests is absolutely brilliant. Avoid VHT like the plague and use what schmiddy says. :)

good guide, but my main suggestion would be do not do it with the callipers on the car, and definately not with the wheels on the car. no matter how carefull you are there will be overspray. plus you really dont want to be painting them with pads and rotors, suspension etc all around. spend a little extra time and remove the calipers. :ninja:

good guide, but my main suggestion would be do not do it with the callipers on the car, and definately not with the wheels on the car. no matter how carefull you are there will be overspray. plus you really dont want to be painting them with pads and rotors, suspension etc all around. spend a little extra time and remove the calipers. :D

How would one remove the calipers? Hard? Easy? Someone (if they have time) post up a tut on caliper removing? Thanks!

How would one remove the calipers? Hard? Easy? Someone (if they have time) post up a tut on caliper removing? Thanks!

takes 5minutes...

- remove rims

- pull out wire clips from caliper

- remove 1 pin

- remove backing plate (prevents it flicking out)

- remove 2nd pin

- remove pads and shim plates

- undo 17mm (i think) nuts around the back.

- banjo bolts for brake line (make sure to have an empty bottle nearby to put the bolt in.

  • 2 months later...

to remove calipers ther are two 17mm bolts on the back us a 1/2 inch breaker with small extention crack it then use ur ratchet to take off. dont let the caliper swing on the brake hose..

the front su can turn the hub. get a rattlegun in ther and do it that way.. well u can on toyotas.. :(

i reckomend a die grinder to etch out NISSAN after u painted over it.. :(

Better than a die grinder is a piece of wet and dry and a cork block.

Just rub the paint back until you get a nice shiney "nissan"

But be careful, one touch of your nice fresh paint will piss you right off :D

  • 3 months later...

Yep,

Get yourself some Wet and Dry, quite fine grade.

Also, get cork or wooden block.

Wrap wet and dry around the wooden block and carefully sand back the paint.

This is exactly how I did it to mine. The Nissan come up looking brushed and it really makes the calipers look great.

i just removed wheel .. covered hub in news paper and wheel arches and side of car and sprayed in my garage with no wind ..

make sure u tape correctly and make sure you get all the paint off if you didnt mask the disc could smell funny or cause irregular braking which you obviously dont want

I used a wire brush on a drill.Went right back to bare metal.

The paint was great and still is quite good.the rears are pretty much as anodised red as they were when they were first done.though the fronts are faded due to track days and instead of being anodised red they have faded slightly.but still resemble the red colour.i will post up before and now shots tomorrow.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The final part arrived today to un-clampify and simplify the intake Who would have though a 1/2" hose stainless bulkhead fitting designed for below waterline bilge pumps would be what I needed Test fit on a 3" offcut I had laying around to see if it would work, and it worked a treat All going well the intake will be on its "final version" tomorrow 
    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
×
×
  • Create New...