admS15

GTR is done, money can now be directed to s13. Btw it needs a gtx2863, e85 and then it will decimate all.

They where cheap when taleb got a container of mid-late 2014 production tyres. I think it was towards the end of last year or start of this year. I'm pretty sure you looked at them too.

May be a few months for me, depending if I can get 1 or 2 more days out of these. 1 of them is looking a little sad. I'll see what that looks like after the next outing. I'm committed unless I find a050 for 200 a piece again. Very very unlikely, lol.

If I can get within a second of them I'll be happy. Thing was with the a050 I didn't have my car set up right the first couple of track days, so I didn't get the most out of them. Also as my driving gets better with seat time, I'm hoping to possibly even match the times. I guess what I'm saying is, I didn't get the full potential out of the a050 so the AR1 should have a chance of getting close. Edit. Full slicks > a050

In that case go the rsr-r and wait for hadouken and my future reviews. Or just take the plunge yourself.

Different class of tyre. Dual purpose tyre vs r spec Motorsport tyre. Got to compare apples with apples. Theoretically the AR1 should be much quicker but there hasn't been many reviews where people can actually compare them to a decent r spec and say I went this much quicker or slower with everything else being equal. I am going to get a set when my current a050 are finished and compare times. Got an event or 2 left in them so still a while away. I can get 265 18's for 205 fitted here. Why don't you get a set Dan and tell us how they stack up against your shagged rsr[emoji6]

Keep putting oil in until it gets to the h mark.

Put more oil in the motor as the others have suggested. Is more than likely your issue.

LSA is the way

May the son of rajab be with you [emoji3]

I have been thinking of rewiring the controller to use the fuel pump signal to trigger the relay for it to turn on. That way if the ignition is on with the engine not running, it will turn off after a few secs. Anyone see an issue with this.

Bumping this up. It's been 2 years since I started using the innovate mtxl. It has been reliable until now, it started showing error e8 recently which can be either sensor or controller. To work out what it was, I went to the wreckers and pulled a couple sensors from early ve Commodores. One was dead and the other worked for about 5 mins. At this point I still wasn't sure what the issue was. I then worked out that my wife's 2012 focus uses the same 4.9 WB sensor and the car only has 40k km on it. I pulled that out and tried it and all back to normal. So it's just a sensor problem. A week or two ago I had forgot the ignition on for around 20 mins without the engine running, im pretty sure that must have fried the sensor (as hadouken warned earlier in this thread). The mtxl is obviously fussy with sensors and if it doesn't like it, it will display an error instead of giving bogus readings. So in summary the later mtxl with 4.9 sensor is pretty good , two years of daily use, around 25k km and around 10 track days till a sensor failure. I'd call that a fair amount of use and a reliable unit. I reckon if I didn't forget the ignition on the other week it still would have been going. Also for future reference 4.9 LSU sensors for ve Commodores 06-09, ford focus lw 2012-2015 and vw tiguan 2010 onward amongst others are compatible with most WB controllers.

Give them a call and ask mate. Best way. Generally from what I've seen, those guys don't deal with shit boxes. There prices do seem a little ott for some stuff.

Burgers back, back again[emoji106]

Two of the big ones

Sell gtv and buy gtt. Easiest way to do it. Will save you a heap of work and part sourcing, be a better overall car and be more valuable. To convert your gtv properly will probably cost you more in the long run.

I have some stockies you can drift the crap out of. Lol

Yes that is from heat. I'm talking from experience, my original manifold turned blue like that after heaps of track days. It had warped and was stuck on the studs. I had to remove all the studs to get it off. You want one that's more of a rusty sort of colour all over

Don't know if it would be any good like that but that manifold is pretty blue which means it's been exposed to extreme heat. I'd keep looking for something in better condition. You would want to check that the mating surfaces to the head and turbo are flat also.

Looks like a standard lower half with a custom/home made upper half.

I see no issues with this picture. Sorry I can't be of any more assistance.

Probably won't pass with any of those if rwc tester is 100% by the book. ECU is hidden so shouldn't be a problem. Remove hand controller if fitted. Remove/hide boost controller You can try your luck with the steering wheel and seats and see if they pick on them.

Ive used ebay radiators in many cars and never had an issue, not even on the racetrack where any deficiency or weakness would show. Unless you're building a super high hp engine i wouldn't think twice. Ebay ftw.

Which is why 8374 makes sense. Isn't that right Grant??

Are the adaptors to suit 350mm evo X front disc or 320mm earlier evo front disc?