Rusty Nuts

How did you go buddy

The data sent from the car’s oxygen sensors to the computer helps it adjust the air-fuel mixture for optimal operation. If a sensor is bad or failing, the computer won’t be able to adjust this mix correctly. Also a clogged fuel filter can cause similar symptoms. Combine the two and you are in a world of pain. A new fuel filter is a cheap starting point buddy.

If you vented that condenser to atmosphere you have unintentionally become an environmental vandal.

You might get a reply if you say what city buddy, there are 47 in NSW at last count

If you want to keep air conditioning remove that single fan, then remove that condenser and I hope there is a fitting on your new radiator to bolt it back on, Then reassemble and reconnect the lines from the compressor and take to aircon specialist for regas.

Yeah thats a condenser nothing to do with auto the auto cooler is behind that on other side.

Think the photo is before he disassembled it

The new radiator you have is an automatic radiator, it is common practice to supply this radiator as a replacement part for manual vehicles, It saves stocking Two types of radiator in their store.

You no longer have CVT (continuously variable transmission) so not sure what you are worried about buddy. I have put a 300zxTT auto in my skyline and have installed a large cooler and i'm not using the little standard trans heater in the standard radiator. Maybe you are overthinking this.

Yep those fittings at the bottom are for transmission, if you have gone manual just ignore and enjoy. Your engine will run cooler now.

You are most welcome mate good luck.

Partially collapsed cat or muffler or flattened exhaust pipe can do that, had a Falcon that started doing this at higher revs then one night on the freeway it fired a blazing ball of muffler packing out the tailpipe and became much louder.

Mine had bullet type connectors which were not original, so i plugged male connectors on with short length of wire attached and used jumper leads from the battery. If your battery is in boot use someone elses car battery. You could also use a battery out of a 12v power tool.

I forgot check your Cat it could have collapsed inside or you will know whats what if its full of decomposed ceramic wheel.

Test the actual motor, that's what mine was doing before the thing gave up completely. Try the simple things first!

I vote for checking the turbine wheel, remove the exhaust side and check for fragments or completely detached, and hoping for your sake its something else, that's cheap and simple. Good luck buddy.

Actually this only tells you there is 12v available in the system. It doesnt mean the motor physically works buddy.

Basically you are refreshing a "dry" joint. The solder on the board is no longer connecting the wire to the board. You will need flux to help the solder to flow.

Have you tested the window motor. Apply 12v to the terminals and confirm it will move up and down first. The brushes in the motors are not replaceable. I am using Patrol motors in mine.

Apparently there is an Aldi in Osaka.

I am only guessing but the solvent in Repellex used as the propellent would be what removes the film, usually this is ethanol or propanol. Hope that helps.

I have cleaned the cloudy film off of mine with (believe it or not) Repellex personal insect repellant from Aldi. I used an old tee-shirt that didn't shed fibres. applied the Repellex to the cloth not the headlight, kept the cloth wet and worked fast, then used a baby oil soaked cloth to keep the surface moist. Wiped off oil then polished the lens with plastic polish. You must polish the lens often with car wax or they get cloudy again quickly. Did this in a cool shaded place if they are hot the cloth sticks. Strange but true!!

Its not for the airbox, that bolts to the body further to the right, that joining block is different to both of my Skylines, your photo does not show the top of the receiver so at a guess that could be the charge port for your aircon which on mine is on top of the receiver.

I took the photo you requested Mick, in your ORIGINAL post 13 days ago and I did not and i have not referred to your repost. Suggest you reread the thread. I have.

Then after posting photos of where the crack is and what it looks like i so people could get a better idea of how bad it is i then asked if anyone thought the proper plastic radiator glue would work.I dont see anything wrong with doing that at all Mick, there is no such thing as proper plastic radiator glue, radiator plastic tanks are usually ABS and can be originally made from material made by Monsanto, Dow chemicals or a japanese/chinese Manufacturer and are difficult to WELD because of this, they have also been subjected to hundreds of hours of heat and fumes which alters their composition, flexibility etc. Hence why even welding is unreliable, their is NO glue that will fix them, you have all the answers mate, and no answers say use this glue its awesome, because they dont work. Bite the bullet and buy another radiator mate, over and out.