I would find the +12V (battery) and +12V (Ignition), the rest you should run yourself.
new head unit + 4ch amp + speakers = way easier than trying to use the shitty factory wiring.
You need to provide more information, like what ECU, injectors, fuel pump etc. you have.
those make a difference when you're converting from N/A to turbo
Weird thing I found on my GT-R, unplug the smaller plug on the HICAS computer, you retain the "variable steering" (below 70 km/h you get lighter steering/more assist), but it stops the stupid computer from killing you (a.k.a. the HICAS kick).
as a former P-plater, never again.
after groowing up past 25 years old, i recommend to always get 2 fat mufflers.
nice note > loudness. f**k the loud kids.
I put cheapo chinese bullshit pads on my HR31/Z31 front brakes at Oran Park. THEY FAILED WITHIN A FEW Laps.
NEVER SKIMP ON BRAKES/TYRES/SUSPENSION. Only thing keeping you connected to the ground.
Just did 3:45.019 around the Le Mans circuit with the McLaren F1 hehe. I put traction to 1 so can floor it out of corners without much worry.
Will do Catalunya later.
I do the online time trials to get silver (1mil credits).
Currently the EG at Tsukuba I got 1:14.015.
Show me what you got! (Don't take it too seriously I only use the controller, CBF setting up G29).
From being around here a decade or so, generally: Quaife in the front, rebuild standard mechanical rear (since they're like 1-way or whatever from factory).