MrStabby

Ok - ill check the motor - how does the door handle come off? Do I lever off the faux wood trim to reveal screws?

Drivers window has been playing up in that auto wind up would get to 2/3rds up, then reverse back down. Holding the button would make it power though with a tiny pause. Now the window is stuck at 1/3rd up and wont move in either direction. I guess the first step is to check all the fuses in the drivers side footwell - unless someone knows the right one. Anything else i should look at?

Standard GTR or GTST injectors? Also - dirty injectors may only flow 2/3rds of clean injectors...

IIRC the workshop manual says the factory style clamps are single use...

My guess - easy way to get the balance about right.

That's great - just keep a close eye on the new ones.

The tl;dr version is rose joints work better, but don't last and are not legal for street. If you're mostly street and the rose joints are shagged you're probably better off going for something like the hardrace bushed adjustable radius rods. Might as well check all the ball joints and other bushes at the same time and fix anything thats stuffed. That stuff doesn't affect the rotors, but the whole hub assembly gets a bit mobile and can cause shudder that feels pretty much the same as rotor shudder to me.

Dont forget to check radius rod bushes...

That's porn, but the blue should be darker.

DBA have form with this for quite a while http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186532-are-you-cracking-dba-rotors/ I spoke with them at the SAU NSW tech night, and they indicated that the metallurgy is strictly specified to give the right balance (for them) of a number of properties. To oversimplfy, you could consider the composition to be either long wear life (hard & brittle) selection, or a short life (soft & tough). IMO DBAs are too far down the hard/brittle end of the spectrum for track use and they shouldn't market their rotors for track. The cheap arse RDA and D2/G4 etc rotors dont seem to have the same issue.

At that price it will be the 10% one - kudos have made a booboo on the description. The 25% one is $605 here; http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/nismo-nismo-quick-shift-short-shift-kit-34110rn595-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr-gts4-r33-gtr-gts4-r34-25gt4-stagea-wgnc34-260rs-rsfour-p-1161.html I have the 10% one and it just feels a little tighter than the stock shifter. I got it mainly because the boot was stuffed on my stock one and I was getting fumes in the cabin. Its fine, the sky wont fall in. but if you want a noticeably shorter shift you'll probably want the 25% one.

If you put R32 GTR into Penrites recommendation guide, is says that HPR 5 SAE 5W-40 is the preferred one. The new, cheaper one may be a lesser oil.

A few things; - BC make different coilovers with different spring rates - Tein make different coilovers with different spring rates - spring rate effects ride quality - everyone has a different idea on what is too soft / just right / too hard - the convention when you lower is to go for a higher spring rate, so you don't keep hitting the bump stops - you may need to change a bunch of other equipment if you want to run lower AND be able to set the alignment correctly.

To summarise the way I understand it; - D514A are powerful and safe, D585s are powerful (guessing probably more than D514A) but can fire early if you run too much dwell, that is, over 4 ms. Firing early "can lead to major engine damage". - Genuine coils (AC Delco or Delphi) are more powerful than generics. I'd guess you'd want maximum dwell at maximum torque, because that's when its going to be hardest to ignite the mixture.

Conventional wisdom is that the wheels are an older crappier design. Hence Duncan's comment about -5s coming out 15 years later.

Interesting - was the old one noisy at all?

Your +20s with 275s should have the same gap to the upright as my +25s with 265s. Do you have more than 5mm gap? (And how much do tyres flex laterally on hard cornering?)

I have 18x10.5 +25 with 265s and the tyre is really close to curved suspension upright at the front. I don't think it would fit with another 5mm offset, let alone wider tyres.

It can boil...but people usually notice that at the track in summer. Ever changed the fluid?

At least with the tyre thread you can get some who compare two different tyres (but may be comparing old to new), and there can be some use in that. In this thread people use engine sound or oil colour or no evidence at all to say an oil is good/bad. So its pretty much just a mix of stuff they heard from somewhere, confirmation bias and cognitive dissonance. Also, its way more important to make sure that you don't empty the sump than to choose oil X or Y, because even the cheapest oil lubricates way better than air.

What kit would you use to do the measurements, and how would you install it?

And who cares on the relative quality anyway, if the D2/ATTKD etc stuff has been bashed up for many years by many SAUers and been found to be well up to it?

100% correct. You can see this in carbie design too. There's a short radius into the venturi, then a long, small angle cone out of the venturi. That's because the transition from large to small produces less turbulence than the transition from small to large, so you need to take more care with small to large. IIRC its 7 degrees but as you say, its impractical to go too small with the angle because it makes the cone too long.

Not if there's a low point in between. Definitely make sure you get coolant out the bleeder and leave it open until there's no more bubbles. I don;t need the coke bottle with my 32 if its on flat ground.

News said it was e10 only.