TurboTapin

This has been resolved by rotating the stator/casing presumably to its original location. No idea why or how this would cause what was happening but it's fixed.

I took my wiper motor off this weekend to clean up the aluminum and paint the steel parts (I was clearly bored). After reinstallation, when I start my wipers they now run in reverse just a tad, hit the cowl and then move forward and wipe the windshield. If I adjust the wipers so that it does not hit the cowl, they then park too high when I turn them off. Anybody ever seen this before? Thanks

Lift your carpet and remove the plastic being held in with 3 screws. Both my inner sills exactly at the same spot had decent rust due to this. Somewhat easy cut & weld job though. Cheers.

I have never noticed there being any plastic box type things inside an R32 GTSt tank. Have any pictures? If you don't have a picture, point it out in this parts diagram. Buy genuine fuel tank (chassis) for Nissan Skyline 8 generation 05.1989 - 07.1991 from Japan - Amayama

Some are very clean like mine, but a lot of rusty ones must of ended up in the US. We use to say Japan sent us all their old garbage cars... and now unfortunately we're passing it on to Americans.

Sadly I believe Canada killed a lot of R32's. 10-15 years ago, they littered the streets due to their low price/potential but unfortunately they were also considered easily dispensable (You could buy GTR's for 6-7k cdn). Most ended up scrapped. Nothing as bad as Pulsar GTI-R's though... they were mostly purchased as winter beaters and rotted away due to road salt. They started making a comeback about 2 years ago due to American's being allowed to import them, along with a huge price increase.

I wrote this at 4am. Rear main seal if it's motor oil, tranny input shaft seal if it's gear oil. Cheers.

You did not answer if you actually have a fancy transmission/concentric slave setup. If you have a stock transmission then it is gear oil and you also have a rear main seal to replace that is presumably not relevant to your current issue.

Do you really have a concentric slave cylinder? If so and you have fluid leaking out of your bell housing then yes your assumption is correct.

I'd start by checking if the common grounds between your lights and radio are clean and tight. See my link below and report back if you don't find anything. Cheers. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/jl8xtprmam0iiuy/AAAQn3fxW_-jiQPGOXX6bOyFa?preview=R33+Wiring+Diagram.pdf

This may be a tad late but here are a few things that are powered by ACC on an R32 located under the hood. Cheers. - Front wiper amplifier (Box near boost sensor on driver side) - Front & Rear windshield washer motor (On washer reservoir) - A/C Relay (Underhood fusebox)

Just by the company name alone most would know to stay away.

At this point you're probably not wrong. On a good note, didn't cost all that much for decent power. I put a sc pulley, intakes, catbacks and tune on it and was making 600hp and 650lb/tq. Thing spun everywhere on 305's in the back.

I would just like to add; do your research on AMG's before buying one. I've owned an E55 AMG and I've never seen a car depreciate so bloody fast. I bought it used, must have been about 5-6 years old and I had paid 30k (70-80k loss in 5 years). I can remember giving the owner the 30K at the bank, him putting the 30k + roughly another 30K from his pocket just to pay it off to legally sell it to me. I was stunned he still owed 60k on the thing. I sold it 5 years later for 18K. 110k to 18k in a little over 10 years. If you do your own work, they are fun cars but parts are bloody expensive. If you intend to always have it serviced at the dealer; forget about it. I remember going to the dealer once to get an alignment due to the air suspension (most other shops didn't want to touch it) and got quoted 600$ for a 30min job. After a few choice words, I walked out dying of laughter.

It's not great, but it's far from terrible. I'd fill it back up with a tig in small increments and file it back down. Shitty spot to do it but doable in place with everything around it out of the way.

Huh? What do step children and red heads have in common? Sorry I'm not following. I'm an Irish/scot runt and I've never heard the term ginger stick before.

Fair enough. My apologies sir!

Oki doke, I was just trying to be funny. Nothing else. Cheers.

I'm presuming they're step daughters if you let them drive Subaru's.

At the price they cost, I would toss/return them. Even if they worked fine, the added stress of always thinking about them is not worth it.

Think of the children. Foruming whilst intoxicated is never ok!

and that's only when they're not busy spinning bearings or blowing head gaskets.

As GTSBOY has said, I would also take the opportunity to upgrade to integral igniters. If you want something on the cheaper end; use newer S2 coil packs like spitfires or OEM. Cheers.

I had the same thing happen to me last year on my 2010 rogue. It was the TB. That being said I had a check engine pop up though instantly. I could barely rev above idle and I had zero power. I turned it off/on a couple times and it went away and never came back. If ever it's your CVT, our transmission warranties were extended to 10 years over here in Canada(Presumably worldwide) as Nissan was aware of issues. Mine was fine but I had it replaced last year before the warranty ran out... I just made shit up about it making noise on the highway and It was replaced 2-3 days later. Cheers.

You seem to already have your mind made up but the best use you can get out of that block is turning it into a table or some other decoration. I'd feel safer making 500hp with an RB20 block then that thing. Cheers.