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r32-25t

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Everything posted by r32-25t

  1. slipped the main harness in and put the wires into their groups (injectors, coils etc) ran the wires where they need to go and cut them to length then fitted the terminals and labeled some of the plugs to prevent mixing them up slipped the harness back to where it all goes, still waiting on a couple of connectors that I forgot to order
  2. At the moment I still don’t have a running car and it’s like 14 weeks away
  3. The rear turbo died and then I fitted the single and the block died instead
  4. Yes we’ve gone through all that, I didn’t expect The twins to die every 6 months
  5. Yes that’s for the exhaust manifold pressure line
  6. It’s back on ground IMG_8718.MOV and has power again have started the wiring, first off by running the exhaust temp sensors into the cabin and plugged into their box
  7. E85 increases exhaust gas volume and then combine that with an engine that revs to 8,000+, makes 5,6,700hp at the wheels and your going to be moving at lot of air out of the engine which needs some where to go
  8. I have a friend on here who had a 2.8 with an efr 8374 with a 1.0 rear on it, the emap was rising fairly a lot and the turbo speed had been reached, with that setup it made 485kw the wheels. He then swapped the rear out for a 1.45, the emap went down, the power went to near 520kw and had zero noticeable extra lag
  9. It’s well known rb engines like big rears
  10. we have seen results on here of efr turbos internal vs external gates and the internal didn’t work. It’s why no body else makes them
  11. Did you read the rest of my post? Do it properly and use external gates, there’s no such thing as a modern internal gate and they don’t work well anyway
  12. https://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-HSG-637&Category_Code=GTHG35 took 3 seconds to find
  13. You can get a t4 twin scroll rear for it from atp in America, barely anyone does internal gates on twin scrolls because they are a massive compromise. If you’re going to expense of going single you may as well do it properly with external gates and etc
  14. G35 900 is what I’d be choosing
  15. Time for an extended sump, had exactly the same problem with mine once the single went on (stock sump/tomei baffle) you can add an extra liter of oil as a band aid and it’ll work most of the time and trip other times
  16. Here’s best advice I can think of. if you want a gtr then buy a gtr, don’t settle for gts4 because you won’t be happy with it. if you buy a gtr and want to modify it then do that to, these are the number one tuner cars for a reason and they’re slow as hell from factory anyway
  17. That was where I got mine from, postage was pretty quick from memory
  18. Yeah same price, I’ve got the ard one and never had an issue, it also worked out well when I went dry sump because it requires a factory fit alternator
  19. Ard is $500 plus post, direct bolt in 150amp
  20. basically the only proven advantage is that it gives more room for the a/c hose and has the disadvantage of requiring reverse rotation turbos which limits your available options.
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