junkie

Did this yesterday afternoon, wash and wax only

too clean to sell

it would be worth buying a front cut with most of the parts. you will get most of the bits from the firewall forward and save a lot of time and hassle

Secondhand parts are OK. Just keep power disconnected until all the bits are replaced. Call around a few wreckers for parts as there is no shortage of wrecked r33's around

i have driven a couple of rental Mustangs and Camaros in the states and found them fairly similar to Australian built cars. Don't have that Jap attention to detail or classy Euro interiors, but really robust, felt well built and seemed to handle all the rental abuse without falling apart

for hip-hop/trip-hop fans... one of the best essential mixes

NS.com, late 2000s to early 2010s, mass stance/low/moar low/poke/stretch/pipe roll fap circlejerk everyone was a suspension, camber, offset and photography expert, building cars around their wheels and ganging up on anyone who didn't meet their wheel fitment requirements and dared to post a pic of their car in the stance thread

That is a tasty 34, love it

That's aluminum corrosion under the clear coat. Only way to fix it - strip the clear, get the lip machined again (these tend to eat deep into the aluminium) then apply a fresh coat of clear. Major pain in the ass to do yourself so get some quotes from wheel refurbishment shops

^ LOL Prep is really the most important part. Even the most fancy exxy product will looks like crap and wont last if the underlying paint surface is contaminated and swirled up. And yeah, anything that sits outside 24/7 wont last long. Personally i stick to my $35 tin of Collinite 476 or Naviwax Ioncoat and reapply every 3 months or so

You can apply the "consumer" version yourself, they go for around the $200 mark. The stuff advertised by pro detailers isn't generally available to the public and needs a bit more preparation and training. The benefit is the pro stuff will last about twice as long, or even more depending on car use and post application maintenance Here is one example of a "consumer" coating - http://www.chemicalguys.com/SS6_Second_Skin_Coating_System_2_oz_p/wac_224_02.htm

Oh this is rather epic, a proper race car with history!

wont hear anything, except at idle

Nismo tax Brand new they're worth $75 (thats what I paid for mine) the only difference is the new logo

you don't buy a mustang for its build quality its an oldschool muscle car - you buy it for the looks, the sound and the cruising ability. anything else that it does well is simply a bonus ive driven mustangs and camaros in the states and loved them. but no point comparing them to anything european

Sounds like you have already convinced yourself and just looking for someone to agree with you? Just go ahead and buy it

Loose or worn alternator belt most likely. A bit of wd40 will fix it temporarily but check tension first, if tight then time for a new one

Wax also fills in some swirl marks, they show up again once the wax is no longer on the paint surface

Need moar Chris Harris - the ranga looked like he did a lot of lines before the shoot

Its just the reality of owning a 20yo car. Even when they are in top shape, insurance companies wont care and will write them off after small-ish accidents.

thats a 10k repair right there, would be very lucky not to get written off

cleaning the windscreen wont help much, its only good if its hazy and affects your vision at night, but doesn't appears to be the case its probably just a fundamental design issue with the car - shape of the dash and the angles between dash, windscreen and driver's head

if you use armor all on your dash, bin it asap. there are low sheen products on the market that will still give decent uv protection

First quote has a crap load of extra, possibly unnecessary work. Resetting computer codes for 160, repaint all wheels? Even paint correction won't be needed. Even battery disconnection costs money, what are they smoking there?