Dose Pipe Sutututu

Adjusting it will change your load scaling Load is determined by AFM voltage and TPS

It's because you adjusted your TPS Now it's changed your load scaling

Borrow some coil packs

Noone tunes with the o2 on

^ just disable it and disconnect it..

$40 BRAND NEW Braided Oil Feed Line for Stock RB25DET Turbo $40 BRAND NEW OEM Rear Main Seal & Spigot Bush for RB2xDExx motors - 12279-5L310 $10 Alloy BOV Bung/Plug $10 110L/h Fuel Pump that fits in stock position $20 RB25DET S2 Factory dump pipe & down pipe $20 RB25DET/RB20DET Factory Manifold $20 RB25DET S2 Stock Blow Off Valve $10 RB25DET S2 Radiator $10 RB25DET S2 Fan Clutch $50 RB25DET S2 Stock SMIC & Pipes $20 RB25DET S2 Stock Anti Roll bar / Sway Bar (front) $10 RB25DET S2 Rubber Intake Pipe $10 RB25DET S2 handbrake boot & gear boot (1x OEM 1x Aftermarket) $10 RB25DET S2 HICAS Rack & Tie Rods $10 SR20DET S15 Radiator SOLD $150 Yellow Jacket Coil Packs for RB25DET S1.2/2, Stagea Non-Neo RB25DET (7x coils) - happily held 1.2 bar of boost SOLD 2x Falken Azensis RT615 225/35/17 with around 3mm tread SOLD $40 RB25DET S2 AFM SOLD $200 RB25DET S2 ABS Diff - minus ABS sensor SOLD $20 RB25DET S2 Stock Anti Roll bars / Sway Bars (back) SOLD $180 RB25DET S2 Turbo - no shaft play, exhaust wheel in one piece & no snapped studs SOLD $150 NPC 400kW Clutch Plate - Barely Used, worn 0.03mm / Will fit any RB

Bump

^ lol that was soooooo long ago aye.. I have access to a hand held wideband, happy to spend a few hours diagnosing your car.. payment = beer

don't waste more money on the wrong things.. buy a wideband o2 that does narrowband simulation..

Thus I suggest to just vent his BOV and tweak it out with the PowerFC It can be done, I've done it before back in the days

it's fine.. all comes down to tuning, fuel type and cooling hardware Honda boys have been turbo charging their motors since forever.

I bought one and it bolted up to my stock airbox going to a 4" snout of a Hypergear SS2. However, I liked pigeons and tuuurrkeeys more so I installed a pod filter to attract slarts & cops.

the Z32 will blow apart when it gets old.. suggest you don't

hahhaah as much as I like AFM ECUs they're a pain in the arse thus, I myself have gone to a MAP ECU.. you can however run atmospheric BOV on a PowerFC and lower the F/C RPM and lean out cells on rows 1~3 to stop it going all rich & shit.. I've done it before with my old R33 and was able to stop it from bogging down and shit

Or get a MAP based ECU and sell your Z32, sell your BOV

No such thing, it jumps because the ECU is interpreting load not going into R&R

Disconnect your idle control valve disconnect your TPS disconnect your AAC then adjust the idle screw till its sitting flat bang at the idle prescribed by your PowerFC then plug everything back in

fuarkkkkkkkkk how have you wired your Z32? Did you earth 1x cable to the chassis and 1x earth into the ECU? If so.. there's one of your problem both earths into the ECU (regardless whatever the interwebs says) had the same issue with a S15.. each time the headlights were on.. the TP Load would increase as if there was more air going into the motor and AFRs dropped 1/2 a point... turns out with some hardcore googling.. DVS JEZ (legend) suggested to earth both together and into the ECU.. guess what? that solved the issue. (yes I do tuning for fun).

wouldn't say that's cheap bro...

I personally just buy 3A racing air filters, use them and bin them yearly.

If it's dropping that hard it could be a mixture of TPS and AFM issues. You really need a data logit kit connected to it. There are many variables you need to look at which you're unable to do via the PowerFC controller alone. Best to bring it back to the tuner or like I recommended get your hands on a data logit kit and post up your logs

sure thing - when when you want them? - I'll PM you

yeah different AFM different turbo = different values required just write it all down, and start decreasing it for the RPM affected.. might actually reduce your buckling

I would be very cautious in using that... it's a hit & miss solution and you cannot accurately set the amount of retard vs. rpm thus it's very easy to cook all your exhaust valves as well as destroy your turbo's exhaust wheel.

As you can see my gluing skills aren't that great