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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. It is, especially when you can control the pedal curve, which cannot be done on a traditional setup unless you swap the the throttle wheels and that's still garbage because it's generally a fixed curve. If you've ever driven a car with a large cable throttle you'll notice it's ver touchy at low RPMs, you can get rid of that behaviour with DBW and exponentially ramp in the DBW TP vs. your Accelerator Pedal Position (APP). And lastly superior cold start, idle control.
  2. Yes different calipers require different discs as the offset would be different. Snap up a photo, I'm sure all of us can try work out what you have
  3. Take a photo, if you're using dogbone/adaptors it might give us a better understanding. 370Z calipers are actually Akebono.
  4. Throw the TPS, cable throttle, idle control valve, aux air valve out and go DBW. I wish I did this sooner, superb idle control, no issues with big cams and AC, etc. Not to mention you can now setup cruise control too.
  5. I use this one, was sub $100 when Autobarn had some online sale. https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Shop-our-Full-Ranges-by-Brand-|-Autobarn/Streetwize/STREETWIZE-SHOW-CAR-COVER---UP-TO-5M/p/PR20531
  6. Cranking table will need a tickle, also I find with larger injectors they do strange things once they heat soak.
  7. Thought we would never hear from you again @discopotato03
  8. You should open up a drive in and drive out service. (In Sydney, Australia lol). I would drop off the shit box for this service.
  9. Could wait till it's in the car, gearbox mounted up and then pop it into a higher gear, handbrake up and torque away.
  10. I just think these shit box motors naturally make heaps of heat and Nissan slapped on the water/oil heat exchanger to keep the oil temps happy. I would assume without any evidence the water/oil heat exchanger is quite efficient at removing excess heat from the oiling system. This is why a mild RB shit box with a decent radiator and OEM fan/shroud is able to keep water and oil temperatures quite stable for street/drag/roll racing usage. It's only when the water cooling system is overwhelmed is when shit hits the fan super quick. I believe @GTSBoy has a better explanation than my broscience lol.
  11. It's more so to remove any risk of the heat exchange failing and turning your oil into a frappuccino. Most engine builders will delete it for that reason as well as simplification of hoses etc. Same reason I launched mine too.
  12. @soviet_merlin looks like someone has removed it. Probably easier to just get a proper oil cooler setup installed with an oil thermostat. Then send its mum.
  13. I think this is a generic photo of the kit, but you get the idea. The oil cooler in these kits are placed between the IC and AC condenser.
  14. Another way to do it, is to use the Greedy relocation blocks, then make up your own lines and mount your oil cooler where you want it. Alternatively just buy their kit, although it comes with a small-ish oil cooler, which would be plenty for your usage anyhow.
  15. This is a wise suggestion for a predominantly street/roll/drag car
  16. ... A brand new OEM one isn't that expensive.
  17. Lol... Well running their "premium" Mishimoto radiators wouldn't be helping. Surely Nissan got it wrong by installing them on RB25s and RB26s. Also those water/oil heat exchangers aren't just for heating the oil. What happens when oil exceeds water temp? What do you think that water/oil heat exchanger is responsible for?
  18. If you're never hitting the circuit and only using if hard for like 10s at a time you should be fine without an oil cooler. But definitely keep the water/oil heat exchanger installed, don't delete that and spend decent money on your radiator and you'll be fine. Avoid eBay looking fans with fancy marketing, they're shit. Get Spal or Flex-a-Lite if you're thinking of binning the stock fan/shroud (preferably keep them).
  19. Also why not G35-900? Get a good thermostat, and don't skimp on the cooler. Get either Setrab or Earls or Mocal or PWR etc. Avoid the eBay looking one with great marketing and big branding. You know which one.
  20. Let me help you spend money, the YEN is a bit weak at the moment so great time to buy parts directly from the land of 90s JDM shit boxes. https://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-gt-lsd-1-5-2-way-rs015b.html
  21. Then we circle back to just installing a nice Nismo GT Pro centre into the diff. Should be about under $AUD2500 drive in/out service (inclusive of diff, purchased separately).
  22. weekly trips to Eurowerke in Castle Hill LOL
  23. hopefully the bin shits out $60k in cash or directly deposits that money into my bank account - if so, done deal.
  24. throw it all in the bin and convert to DBW.
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