MBS206

Also don't call what you've done OCD clean, that's offensive to those with OCD. That stuff would be spotless if you had true OCD for cleanliness

Show me your fuel system with bulk head fittings (you know, the fittings for going through sheet metal so things are sealed properly) and not rectangles cut out of rusty steel... Oh wait, you can't. PS, I've never claimed any of my cars were mint. You have, we're telling you how they're not mint.

Bahahahaha OMG, how do I like give more likes then is possible for this post! Also, I'm happy to even bring my GFs slow ass POS and run a Drag Race. First one to top out fourth and grab fifth gear driving wins the other person's car.

Also, why are you challenging people to races for safety certificates?

Lol, such a cocky little f**ker thinking his 250kw GTR is all that... Also, you have two photos up showing the undercarriage in different spots both with surface rust. Can't understand how you call that whistle clean. Clean is rust free, not rusty. Bulk head fittings are for putting lines through bulk heads not cutting gaping holes.

I dragged mine out of a paddock and into a workshop the other week... In need of the seal for a R33 petrol tank where the fuel pump lines go in and out of the tank, that horrible seal has dissolved.

Also, clean the Sharpie off the paint, for a car that was meant to be "mint" that's a great way to make it look half arsed. In the pic it really does look like the work experience kid was cutting the rectangle with a grinder. IMO, to keep it mint, fill that cutout back in, and use proper bulk head fittings that you out through a circular hole, that seal against the hole and don't allow dirt/mud/other crap to ingress into the vehicle. Also why didn't they wire in the new cam sensor with a little less cable rather than just looping all that excess up on the hot side of the engine with what looks like a bread twist tie?

The longer you leave surface rust the longer it gets the chance to become deep rust. Get it cleaned up, painted over, and seal the metal from the elements to prevent further rust. It also concerns me, you said this was all rebuilt in 2016, yet there is surface rust in a few pictures underneath it. My POS has less surface rust under it and it sat in a field, on a farm, for the past 2 years, and also went 1.8M under water in a flood during that time, not to mention just sitting around for years. I'm wondering what the rebuild hid or more so, it's life after the rebuild. Crazy salt roads?

I'm happy to sell mine.

I'd defect it. For bad angles... Make it match the Bends in the guard FFS!

Just quoting you so you get a notification for this post, but what issues were you having with warping with the 3d printing? Was it warping while printing or when you took it off? I've had issues with my printer warping, but it all came down to a bit of tuning on the printer and overall print setup. I would not consider 3d printed parts on a traditional 3d printer suitable for "high stress" though. It's amazing how the different plastics deform and fail!

I think you missed some updates. This went from "turbo is sitting on a manifold needing custom parts" to "I thought I blew the head gasket" How?! Ha ha

In the total of 13 years I've only put 5,000 km on mine. Just none in the last 9 years Ha ha

I have a 10KG washer for 2 adults. Never wanting children. Have dog and 2 cats instead. Is freaking awesome when you see the blankets we throw in it also can save a month's worth of washing and do it in one hit

Mine still has only 7X,000 on it. (I think it's 75) Hasn't had a single KM added to it in 9 years

Thinking on it, also check all of your suspension parts, a mount may have let go partly. Seen it in other vehicles.

I'd be definitely starting with the tail shaft and diff. Also go over every single nut and bolt on the car

Mitch is it speed or rpm related? If speed, then have to look gearbox out to wheel. I'd be looking at either diff if welded, or tailshafts. To easiest spots to end up out of wack. Pull the rear cover and inspect if the welds are coming out.

Only thing to make sure with mild steel is that it's coated internally and not bare. If left bare it can start to rust, rust = flakes in your engine.

Dose all comes down to the intake pipe. Man I miss the way mine used to flutter. Actually got told one day I really should remove the atmospheric BOV before another copper defects me for it... Full boost shifts used to sound like those stupid obnoxious atmo BOVs. Low boost shifts, or just rolling on and off the throttle used to make some nice long slow flutters... Mmmmm flutter...

Secrets for now...

Nice thread, I'm curious on the sound deadener removal, what's the exact process you followed with the dry ice? Is it a matter of dump in and wait and after a minute or so hit with a hammer to break it?

Nah... Posting from the grave.

Time to shave the bumper... Then come up here and run Mt Cotton!

OMG, I went for a walk through the bush the other day and actually found this car!