Beer Baron

oh, and swaybars. don't do the whiteline thing. go cusco. much nicer fit, and they are hollow which makes them much, much lighter. pick up a whiteline bar, that should make up your mind! or if the ARC ones are better again. but the cusco ones are reasonable money, the ARC ones are $$$. oh, do the ikeya tie rod ends too. they are good and not too expensive.

merlin, 1 piece of advice from my experience. the cusco arms are good but the ikeya arms are miles better when talking lower control arms. they are in a whole new league when it comes to LCA's. the ikeya front lower control arms are a serious piece of gear. much different design and incorporate the castor rod with a better mounting and much beefier all round. the rear lower control arms are great too. tops are much of a muchness, but definitely go ikeya for both front and rear LCA's. you wont regret it. the suspension and brakes both will be awesome. but I would avoid the pedal box unless you really need it, or at least go for hanging pedals instead. they are more trouble than they are worth in a skyline. have a look at mark and russ, they ran one in the 32 and have found the same as I have in that they take some getting used too and with the way the driving position is in a sedan floor mounted pedals can be hard to use. looking at lots of the serious cars in japan the quick guys were not running them, and many guys that were running them were struggling. consequently when doing the R34 which is no holes barred mark chose NOT to run a pedal box this time. I would also not do the hydraulic handbrake unless you really need/want it. the stock handbrake is quite good, and chuck in some endless handbrake shoes and a pair of new handbrake cables (not expensive) and it will be toit as a toiger.

the g sensor is only worth $100. it's the packaging that costs $1900...

the main problem with engine bay mounting is the heat. you want to keep the fuel as cool as possible, and having a surge tank in the engine bay wont help with that. also, you have a big length of line then for your lift pump to send the fuel through the reach the surge tank. it's not impossible, but it's one of those things that if there was a big benefit to doing it, everyone would be. the other thing is a decent tank, fittings, mounting, pump and wiring all adds up to a fair bit of weight, and having that in the nose of the car which is traditionally already overweight is not a winner for weight distribution.

well pete is definitely up for some pipe screwing, frictional heat generation, tapping and reaming. not sure if trefolex truly will prolong the life of his tool though. it's pretty much worn out already.

thanks lover. SAU is on fire. not bad at all. snowclown, kel, worchestershire, newman, savman. all up the sharp end. keep it up guys. and keep it on the road.

can't remember exactly, but it does buzz along a bit. lol. I am about to finish the new set-up which is OSG close ratio box, with the 4.4:1 diff gears, built N1 Nur motor, and tiny HKS GT-SS turbos. it should be pretty radical on corner exit now! and will have less top speed, but now have a chance of actually getting there.

what about newman?

that not grease.... it's lube...

looks good to me. seat and harness really transform the way you drive any car on the track. they are 2 of the best track oriented mods you can do. you go from gripping the wheel and bracing yourself against various parts of the cockpit as you get flung around, to being rooted in one spot and being able to drive with your fingertips and toes. and suddenly find you have so much more feel of what the car is doing and can focus on driving it, not holding on to it!

http://www.croydonracingdevelopments.com/ 9 Blaxland Street Silverwater NSW 2128 Sydney, Australia Ph: 02 9648 4264 Ph: 02 9647 1197 Fax: 02 9648 3458 [email protected] and according to their site they do both riverside and trafficstar.

honestly if you want better economy by a different car. GTRs are performance cars. they will always be hungry and should be. putting 3.5s in there will just dull the performance and give you an astronomical theoretical top speed of 350+ that you will never get too. most people go the other way and do 4.4:1 for even better acceleration and sacrifice top speed down to about 260-270 or so which is plenty.

It's 6U9 then 0's then the original chassis number to make a total of 17 digits. ie. 6U9000BNR32001234 in that case the original nissan chassis number was BNR32001234 and DOTARS added 6U9000 to it.

looking sweet merlin. good thing you were on top of the pipes. all the cheap chinese coolers and piping kits, and dump pipes for that matter were all shocking on the inside. overhang where welded, dags, swarf etc a-plenty. the japanese stuff is clean enough on the inside to lick if you so desire... and sometimes you do... so when is my invite to come over and help...

well the 324mm 33 GTR sized rotor with the caliper adapters and the standard S14 sumitomo 4 pot caliper will be good. I personally would just use the proper pad for that caliper rather than stuff around cutting up another pad to try and get a little more pad area. and as duncan suggested try some more hard core pads. the other option is to get the brembo caliper to go with the 324mm rotors, but they are not really a big step up from the sumitomo 4 spots, although you can bleed both sides of the caliper on the brembos which is nice.

fatz may not be a boob, but he has 2 nice ones. they make a good pillow after a hard night on the tiles. mmmm moobs. not bad pete. nice to see you finally back in a real car. it's only been what? 8 years?

my only advise is swap that .5mm toe in on the front for 1mm toe out. and enjoy. and if you like a 'pointy' car with razor sharp turn in may it 1.5mm toe out each side front and 0 toe rear (or leave it with the 1mm in it has now for a bit more stability).

couldn't have put it better myself. I've loved watching him race in everything he's been in, including those upside down mercs... and he always has something good to say in an interview, and his qualy pace back when there was 1 lap qualifying was amazing. that as much as anything else shows he has the skill and the balls to get on the pace in 1 lap, in rubbish cars (jag etc).

personally I'd wait at least 5 mins before engaging R mode.... and LC with the JDM cars you just had to have your foot on the brake, not pushing it really hard (it acts more like a switch). and with the accelerator you just had to push it too the floor, didn't matter if you mash it in a hurry or just slowly push it to the floor. either way worked. and then once it's there the car would hold 4500rpm. once you get off the brake it's like activating the 'go' switch! the clutches start to act and the brakes are released in an instant. and away you go at up to 1.2g of acceleration. and be ready with the upshift paddle as you are about to hit the rev limiter in first gear...

CRD import and sell (or at least used to) genuine trafficstar wheels.

webber was good to watch. getting from 18th to 11th in the first dozen or so laps. but he was farked once stuck behind piquet and that halted his progress up the grid. bummer. fk sutil is a retard. 3 places. big deal. he's already a mobile breaking marker for everyone else. force india. more like joke india.

not violent my arse. I know of a certain pimply faced youth who has a scar from where you sconned him with a muffin (pun intended)! he is still scared whenever baked good are around.

LED driving lights are not standard on any models in japan either. they are all a $2K option. aux input is on both prem and base models. card reader is on both too. so is sat nav. so is voice commands. that is why the premiums are so over rated. the only good feature in my mind is the dark wheels. as they light ones looked awful, but you can get those added to the base spec in japan. the so called premium model is just an option package. you can get any of the premium features added to your base spec, and much more if you like. you are basically paying a fair bit more dough just for the bose system (which I didn't like) and a slightly better alarm (I'd rather save the money and spend it on insurance). even the base stereo still has DVD player, CF card reader, hard disk music box, voice commands, sat nav, rear subs etc. so you don't gain much for the money.

there would not be a factory car anywhere this side of 1950s russia that is painted in acrylic. unless it's being painted in someones backyard.

money well spent I'd say. considering for what you get, good quality, 50mm DMS, install, alignment etc. that is pretty fair money for good suspension.