Beer Baron

if it's really preventing you turning the wheel it could well be something more substantial than the guard liner. it's quite possible it's hitting part of the suspension. get on the ground and check what it's hitting. you can put it on a hoist and check but it may not hit anything with the wheels at full droop, but you should still be able to see what it is.

They are standard size housings, I can tell you that much. the 42 or .42 is the A/R of the front housing and the 0.48 is the rear. the "14411-05U20" is a nissan part number, so they are a nissan turbo, and given the housings sizes are standard I would say they are stock. It's possible they have been rebuilt, and perhaps given steel wheels, but also possible they were just removed for some other reason and re-fitted at some point.

looks good mate. my only comment would be the alloy looks pretty thick to me? that would be my only suggestion, maybe for mark II use some thinner sheet as it doesn't need to be thick at all. edit: just read your post on the last page. 1.6mm is definitely a bit of overkill for the door trims. you coul probably go half that thickness for half the weight.

yeah, nylon or kevlar srap will do it. you just need a circle about 9inch across, at least 1 inch wide, max 2 inch wide (otherwise too big to fit it).

lol, thanks for the vote of confidence fineline. good to see you are comfortable with your sexuality. that is not really my thing, but whatever makes you happy mate.

you don't even really need that scroth thing if you still have factory tow hooks. all you need is a loop about 8 inches long. you feed it through your tow hook, then through itself. so it's now gripped onto the tow hook, with a nice loop to poke out through your bumper. shoudl cost about $10-$20. like this kind of material.

even if it's visually concealed by the bumper, but it can still be used without removing the bumper then you can just place one of the 'TOW' stickers that have the arrow to point where it is. the sticker pack that race and rally speedzone sell has those on it. costs $5 and has tow, blue triangle etc. all you need. and a quarter the price of the revolution racegear ones.

yeah, it's a part number sticker. lol. someone just stuck it on the firewall...

or for similar money buy this. it's elligible for at least 2 classes of door to door racing, and whilst learning you can just run it at track days and supersprints. would be great fun. http://my105.com.au/classified.asp?id=9076

i dunno, maybe $300.

you should be doing: hold pedal down. open nipple. pedal goes to floor. keep it on the floor, close bleed nipple. now let the pedal up. pump it up a bit and hold it, open bleed nipple, pedal goes to the floor. close bleed nipple, let the pedal up. etc etc. don't be just pumping away at it with the bleend nipple open as each pump will suck up some air.

yeah it sold to a good friend of mine who is currently living in WA. the mid range is fantastic in it. typical RB26 has nothing under 3,000, but over 4,000 it's very nice.

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this will probably be the final update. Can had a check of the tune, and it was pretty spot on. We raised the boost a little and it came alive. Now making 303kw atw and very fat mid range. very nice street package. It makes 1 bar boost at 3700rpm! at 4400rpm it's already making 210 kw at the wheels. and it hits 303kw at just 6700rpm. it feels super FAT on the street. Later this week the car will be heading to it's new home in Perth, so all you perth SAU guys keep an eye out for it.

you want the whole oil pick-up assembley? I have a brand new one here. I was keeping it as spare but can sell it if you need one in a hurry.

umm, last time I saw him grabbing beers he said david loftus would pick up the check? anyway, I reckon the winner shouts... that should see the times blow out a bit.

nice one Harry. yeah it will be a sad day when OP closes so it's definitely worth grabbing time there while you can.

sure standard GTR is great but I would think if he's put an RB26 into an S13 the standard S13 BOV will be useless and the GTR bov is probably still with the car the engine came out of... also in an S13 it will be a bit of a hassle to mount the stock twin BOVs and their associated plumbing. so I would say in this case Trust Type R is the best and easiest way to go.

the 34 ones aren't too big either (maybe even the same size). you have to do the same with them. flat one front means move a back wheel to the front, and put space saver on the back.

yeah, sorry it could have been installation no doubt. but it just seemed awfully coincidental. i've seen nismo, trust HKS, none noisy. then i saw probably half a dozen gates and all were noisy. you are right though improper tension will make any belt noisy.

he said 9.8 and 7.8 as in 9.8:1 not .98 lambda. that is a big difference from conventional fuels.

it should be said that the next car I aim to buy is a GTST. got my eye on one in japan I'm trying to coax the owner into selling. but if that doesn't happen I will force Roy to sell me his. I will keep the GTR though. I love them.

yep, Greddy Type R is the way to go. It will easily bypass enough air for your turbo and boost level. and they are easily plumbed back in to the inlet or if you want they sell trumpet attachements too so you can vent it to atmosphere. the sard R2D2 is like a toy BOV, mostly plastic. sard racing is better, but the trust Type R is better again, much bigger surface area means it can flow much more air.

ok, price updates. timing belts now $90 + $5 postage Cams $360 inc postage btw, 1 set of cams sold, 1 set of springs sold.

genuine are pretty good. all the gates belts i've seen were noisy as hell. and personally I thought the quality a little suspect.