89CAL

You should be right to re-use the old ones. ARP ones arent terribly expensive as well though 142-152Nm is the torque setting (for RB26) but they should all be the same. I use the torque setting on my flywheel in my 25 anyway

Looks nuts Stao, I bet its hard to find grip with that sharp torque and power increase, looks crazy

Might be a silly question, but did you look on both the head and the block? They can get stuck in either I would use both Dowels, just go down to Nissan and pick some up. They arent terribly expensive. I had to order a pack of 10 in, so ended up costing a bit more but still not to bad

I think its just a warning to be careful of people selling high flowed injectors. I know when its done right it isnt a problem, but asking for flow reports etc before buying I think is the message here? They look pretty horrible either way. Definetly wouldn't want them on my car

how do you know its the '200Nm' setting though? Keep in mind that what the shops air pressure is will play a part in it. All good, everyone has their own way. I was just giving my personal opinion on the matter

No way in hell would I do them up with a rattle gun. Important parts that you dont want to fly off and cut your legs in half should be put on by the book. 1/2" rattle guns these days are getting pretty good and seen as the flywheel bolt torque is around 145Nm, i wouldnt want to put a rattle gun that is capable of doing double that on there. I would find it slightly more acceptable to do the engine damper bolt up with a rattle gun, but I always do this up with a torque wrench

Think engine work might start this week. Bout time I got around to it!

I rebuilt my gearbox and the noise is still there, Not real sure what the go is, My 5th gear has a bit of play as well so I'd say its just something I'll have to live with

Kudos Motorsport, I've dealt with them many times and they are a great bunch to deal with. Also based at the Gold Coast. Here is the kit you are after i assume?: http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/nissan-complete-engine-gasket-kit-genuine-nissan-skyline-r33-gts25-gts25t-rb25de-rb25det-p-1060.html

Don't give out advice like this to someone asking for genuine advice. This pretty much. A large flat screw-driver can sometimes work as well. Screw 2 longer bolts (use bolts that arent part of the gearbox install) and then use a pry-bar/screwdriver between the 2 bolts and into a tooth on the flywheel to stop it turning. It's a bit hard to explain on here but you should be able to work it out

You don't want to come off as a Jack-ass? Insulting my car like this isn't a good start...... I payed alot more then that for a straight, stock standard (mechanically) R33 GTS-t and have spent alot more on the car since then. I said in my first post that you would need an aftermarket ECU. I dont think using the A/C fan switching will work on an R33, especially if you want to keep the engine as cool as possible. By the way, engines run at specified temperature because thats where they are designed to run. Heater doesnt need 76+ degree (celsius) temps to have hot air coming out of the vents. Engines are designed to run at specified temperatures for optimal wear, combustion and efficency. I'm finished here anyway. You already have your answer

is it very faint? It could also be the input shaft bearing in the gearbox

Oh crap. Sorry for some reason I thought you had an R32. Mine is a S1 R33 So the flasher should be there, its def there on mine. I can possibly get a photo later if you think that might be the problem. Should at least be able to test it for power see whats happening Also, the small bulbs in the side of the headlights are just park lights not indicators. They should light up when the park/head lights are on. The indicators are on the bumper and the front guards.

Ah ok, mine has both a flasher and a relay I think. I think this is the one I replaced my stock one with anyway, stock one looks similar (round, about the same size, and a 3 pin plug): Perhaps the 32's are different but worth a look if you have 10 mins or so to look under the steering area BTW, the hazard lights dont work by chance do they? The indicators and hazard lights are funny, indicators wont work without the hazard switch plugged in but the hazards work when the indicator fuse is blown. From memory on my car this is true anyway

Yes apologies. I'll re-write that. The water pump speed is relative to the engine speed. Wether they are under-driven or overdriven, they will run at engine RPM x drive difference (from memory) I did mean to put that in but fogot

So the low and high beams work normal once the light switch is past the park light setting and into the headlight setting? park lights arnt blown or removed or anything like that? Most of the time HID conversions are pretty easy to get back to standard as most of them use the standard wires as trigger wires for the ballast/relay for the HID's, but at the same time it comes down to who installed them Have you checked the flasher unit for the indicators? I swapped mine not long ago to a non load dependant flasher (because I put LED indicators all round) and i hooked it up wrong the first time and blew the fuse. So you've checked all the fuses but perhaps something has happened to the flasher unit The only problem is that because it wont work it will be a bit of a pain to find because there usualy easy to find when you can hear them clicking on and off. Mine (in my r33) was under the steering wheel, could get to it if you stick your head in the foot-well and look up. 3 wires going to it

How the hell can the fan clutch kicking in have any affect on the water pump? If the water pump slows, the engine slows. It is absoloutly no different wether you run a fan on the pulley or not, the only difference is you wont get the slight drop in revs when the fan kicks in which is pretty marginal to say the least. The water pump is always spinning at engine speed (unless you have a slipping belt etc) so there is no real gain in water pump efficency by removing the viscous fan. The pump is driven by the engine, you cant say it has a harder time because theres a fan attatched to it. It will spin AT engine speed, all the time, with an electric fan, a viscous fan, or 20 fans My ONLY argument has been that on a street car, the cost to do all these things does not give enough of a performance gain to justify it. How much for an electric fan setup deep cycle battery, new altenator and any extra wiring to suit? Compare this to $0 to leave it how a whole bunch of engineers designed it all those years ago. On a race-car fair enough. I was unsure what your car was for thats why I made sure to say 'on a street car' in my second post when I was elaborating on the first. It doesnt make 'no sense at all' that Nissan used a viscous fan hub. When they work how they were designed they do the job very well. I have had my R33 GTS-t for about 5 years now. Never ever had a cooling problem, replaced the water pump at the 100,000km service but it was still in good condition, no leaks, no issues. Have run viscous fan from day 1, and I would say the only worthwhile cooling mod I have done is putting a cooling panel in. If its a race car, put electric fans in. No problem. But I was talking, and always have been talking about cars driven primarily on the street

You could just run 2 of the above in series? So they both have to be on for the battery to be active. Or do you want a Battery and Starter Isolater?

I never said that an electric fan would drain more power then the viscous hub fan. I merely said that its usually alot of effort on an RB25 for very minimal gain, and from what I've heard alot of the kits dont cool as well as the viscous fan Electric fans are fine in a race car because theres usually so much air going through the radiator from driving fast that the fan/s are off. But on a street driven car there is alot of time where airflow is needed and the viscous fan usually does alot better job of this. In a street car, I don't see the point. I've never thought to convert mine because it works so well.

Mine's a GTS-t lol I'm not sure what the deal will be for a conversion like what your doing. Wether you can run newer model/bigger holden calipers etc or if it has to be a custom job. But if you talk to GSL Rallysport: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/428051-disc-brakes-australia-dba-brake-rotors/ Or maybe email DBA or RDA brakes direct and see what they suggest.

Use this to work out which one it is. I replaced mine with LED's (can buy them from supercheap) that have 4,6,8 etc LED's and then have attatchments that plug/screw into your existing socket http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/instrumentlicence-plate

Yes this is right, they use 2 seperate lights, 1 for each. Alot of commodores use 2 bulbs the only difference is that they use a H4 which does low and high beam then they have another bulb just for high beam. Park lights are the same deal, Usually Wedge (T10) bulbs in alot of different cars

Mine was fine? Have taken the plug on and off a few times since mines been on

324mm front from what I can find, not sure on the rear. Theres people that sell RDA rotors on here, be worth sending them a PM and seeing what they can do for you. If you are just putting brembo rotors on an R33 GTS-t or R33 GTR that didnt have them standard then should just be a matter of buying rotors made for the 33 GTR V-Spec or whatever was equipped with brembos

Hey mate, Do the R33 B-pillar covers replace the original ones or just cover the original ones? If not I might be keen on an R33 GTR wing blade