Piggaz

When is it going in?

With a jap cam, prob would be fine. Their ramp rates are mild. Custom agro cam, no good.

Buy them. Job done. Don't muck around with jap junk. A flaccid dick would push a valve down harder than one of those "jap springs".

^^^ needs more graph, mate.

Well the front turbo is entering the pipe straight up. Hits the roof of the pipe then says "well I spose I better go this way now". The mod allows both fronts of air to merge very shallow.

There is a few good old videos around the traps about it. Even looking at it you can see the flaws in it. Doesn't take a rocket scientist to work that out.A bloke in the states did a back to back. 8-12 HP extra across the graph IIRC.

Definate gains by sorting out that twin turbo pipe, Skidz. Sand the welds back and it would still looking factory .

Banging! That was quick, Pete. Where did you order from and how much? What manifold did you end up going with? Give the wheels a little spin. They're so light . That one wheel spins easier and "more free" than a single -5. Good idea with the sensor display. If not needed, it's still cool to know and see how much you have left up your sleeve. They're a massive unit. A PTE 646 looks so small in comparison. Not sure what it is with the BW's but a lot of their housings are massiv. Joeys 300 SX is the same. Now hurry up and get it on!!!

Can't complain about fitment of the 6 boost/8374 1.05 of mine.

Depends who you ask.

If that's the case.-5's Bosch/ID 1000's Walbro 400/460 in tank pump Decent set of front pipes (none of this merging into 75 or 80 mm garbage) 3.5 inch exhaust (if not 4...) Get some mufflers made and have something fabbed up Nismo coppermix twin plate Whatever ECU you want Keep factory airbox Get some decent dumps (HPI 76 mm) Quaife front diff if budget allows

Front diff... Best mod ever!!!

Any preference to single of twin? Will you be keeping the stock engine? What fuel?

I did spit a few belts with the 1000 HP ATI I had in years ago down at Huntley hill climb. I THINK that way AC. Stretching my memory here.

Is that in turning on the AC or not? I can get any firm clarification. Would it matter if the AC was not engaged? Would it be the same as a stock balancer at 10,000 RPM?

Best thing you can do is put real diffs into it, with either version. Front especially.

7670

I know Unigroup had issues on their RX7 racecar a while ago. As the race went on, the AFR's got leaner and leaner. A fuel cooler helped ALOT. It's definitely something to consider.

An 8374 on a 3.0 is a lunatic machine, let alone a 7670. Would make for one awesome point to point car!

$2900 for the exhaust.

Hey guys, Both items are located in Georges Hall, Sydney. Buyer pays postage. Contact me via PM. Item 1: Haltech EGT sensors (6 of) includes weld on bungs Price: $600 Condition: Brand new. Item 2: Holley Dominator 12 - 1800 Price: $420 Condition: 2 weeks of use and 1 dyno session. It came out of GTRNUR's (Ian) car. 98 fuel only.

What a nugget!

Try SMB mufflers in Sydney. INTUNE on here has two of their mufflers on a 4 inch and its pretty damn quiet! I have heard a 3.5 inch on a 34 and it was even better!

Pull the front shaft out then. That will sort it out.

Put it on the dyno and see how you go.