KiwiRS4T

Yep reused the Tomei metal h/g 3x just clean up and repaint.

Or there is a company called Auto Gallery Yokohama that also does kits as well as stronger gearsets and close ratios: www.ag-y.com or you could possibly order through Jesse Streeter or Nengun. There are often transfer boxes being dumped when people manualise but be aware the 33 GTR are the strongest and others such as Stagea ones have less plates etc.

You can get beefed up components from Dodsons

No ...compressor is the same. You won't see a huge power gain. Get the VG beefed up by Steve Murch but then you will need all the supporting mods.

Air filter I used to use the Pipercross PX-PP118 (also fits WRX and Falcon I believe). Oil - do a search and make your own mind up. Def get a quality synthetic - I use Motul Chrono 300V 10W 40

I have a GTR bov for sale. They bolt straight up to the flange but the outlet pipe is a bigger diameter so you need to adapt them. The advantage is that it is a much more robust unit but I don't think it has any more exciting sound.

I have a stock GTR bov you can have for cheap.

Do a search on Kinugawa and also see the Hypergear thread - heaps of info ...in fact go to the forced induction section and have a read of the upgraded RB25DET section.

I can't remember where I got my M/C but it is a Nissan part. I don't know if the Z32 and GTR ones are in fact any different - someone with access to Nissan FAST may be able to tell. I do know I put a Z32 recond kit in it (new piston, seals and springs etc). It seems to work perfectly on my Nissan Stagea - AWD, 330mm 8pot D2s on the front and R32GTR 2 pots on the back - pulls up straight every time and my brakes get a hammering on the track - really, really hot when I pull in. My brake pedal goes about 1/3 way to the floor at most. Markings on the M/C: BM57 Nissan 1 1/16 NABCO Japan 850RF The two lines are marked with a large letter F (nearest the firewall) and R

I have a synchronic 50mm wastegate and plan to get their recirculating valve (bov) as well. They have impressive engineering (pistons instead of diaphragms) but (a) they are expensive and (b) tuners don't like them because they are not familiar with them. It took me a while to work out how to set up my w/g. Tial seems to be the respected brand in waste gates. I have an HKS sequential bov at the moment that seems to work ok but (a) its noisy as ...which is why I want to replace it with a plumbed back type and (b) if you are buying one there are a lot of realistic looking fakes around

I expect that you will be able to install a Nistune chip in the ECU thereby losing the Impul tune. Anyone familiar with installing Nistune chips should be able to tell by looking inside your ecu.

Wow twice the price of the Venom!

Thanks for the update!

Your wheels are sticking out beyond the body. Camber is not the solution - camber is a suspension setting not a fashion item. If you can't move your wheels back in a bit you need narrower wheels or wider guards.

Tested battery? May be working but weak? Checked earth(s)?

BTW currently using a 5in 100cell metal Venom

Series 1 have them too. They are certainly a factory item but don't know if they all had them or were an option. You can buy another key from Nissan but someone may be able to supply a suitable blank in which case there are programming instructions on this site.

Amon please PM me the brand of cat that failed.

Wheels look fine. Some clear front and side indicators would look better

Another reason not to fit those "low temp" thermostats.

My engine is the same as yours... stock bottom end with new rings, bearings but plus new rod bolts. It has not been balanced. The rev limit is 7000 but I usually change up at around 6500 (on the track - on the road its about 2000!) and never sit on the rev limiter. Currently on 314 AWKW. and done about 50,000km over three years. Having said that if I were to do it again I would prefer to save up for a rebore, high compression forgies and a new harmonic balancer all fully balanced.

Fit the boost controller and Nistune and run 10psi. Then as above spend money on suspension, tyres brakes and time making the car lighter. A guy over here has been developing a street legal track car and is doing good times with the stock turbo after concentrating on brakes and handling and making the car lighter.

If you only want 235mm of road contact you only need 8in wheels which would help with your clearance issues ands also be cheaper,

Yes there is a Just Jap and a Blitz return flow FMIC and more besides. You can usually angle them to avoid the aircond fan or else replace it with a thinner one.

Very tidy car. If you haven't already got them a set of heavier sway bars will do wonders. Brakes will be fine perhaps with better quality rotors braided brake lines and some good pads. Nistune or a Link will give a small increase immediately and allow tunabilty for later. A return flow intercooler will bolt in without drama.