KiwiRS4T

Adapter plates used to be around $1k but now that they are more common the price has come down to about $300 - $400. Here's one for $175: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/engines/auction-495138653.htm Its not a simple bolt up job though there's some grinding and adaptation needed.

I think my relative lack of power might be timing related too. Does anyone know if the timing belt is absolutely symetrical on a stock RB engine i.e. the same length (same number of teeth) on the left and right side? It occurs to me that this could be upset by the relocated second tensioner. Is it possible that this could mean that even though all the timing marks appear to be in the correct place the timing is out? I know that Guilt Toy and others have said that valve timing is critical to getting the full power from the RB30. Well just had a look at this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/73824-adj-camshaft-pulley-new-cam-belt/ and it sems to me that if the crank timing is set at TDC and the cam gears line up with the backing plate it should be correct. The marks on the belt (if there are any on a belt for a twin cam RB30) probably won't line up as the belt will not have been made for that purpose.

Too expensive for me

I don't think the 2wd block will go on the awd sump without an adapter plate and if you're going to get one of those you may as well do an RB30!! In NZ the awd RB25DET go for about $1500 and the awd neo turbo for $2000. if you can get an engine aound that mark you will save yourself a lot of stuffing around. Or maybe you can revive the dead motor with a few $$ worth of second hand parts - how bad is it?

How much camber do you have? You might get there with just the eccentric bushes. I have R33 Cusco camber arms at the front and some no -name ones (R33) at the rear. Cheap and nasty tyres are never a good idea on any car at any time.

I have a GTR LSD and half shafts (and gearbox) in my Stagea to handle the extra grunt from my RB30 conversion. Didn't change the cradle.

Sorry - getting tired - was referring to exhaust manifold - my mistake!

No hard and fast rules but the stocker is considered fine for up to about 300kw. More is possible but you start to get some worthwhile gains with a 6 boost type manifold from about 280kw on.

There was a more recent post on VCT for the RB26 head but I can't find it now. The link further back in this thread doesn't work. Does anyone have a chart showing the curve for an RB26 with VCT switched on and off to compare? It seems ERD and Red R Racing have developed a VCT system for the 26 - does anyone have prices for a completed head or for conversion of a supplied head? And is special ecu software required or will most aftermarket ecus such as Link/Vipec and Motec be able to run this OK?

Even better - why create problems - just get the right ecu.

Check the flange with a straight edge and pressure test before fitting. Buy or make an adapter and use your stock throttle body and TPS (sell the 80mm one to get a few $$ back).

Why stuff around? Get this for NZ$200 http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/ecus/auction-495188492.htm

No the opposite - he's saying apart from ease of plug change everything else is harder to get at. You'll get quite good at pulling off the crossover pipe etc after a few goes!

You're spending quite a bit of money - while you have the engine out why not get forged rods and pistons new harmonic balancer and everything balanced?

As above. The S1 ecu is like the R33 ecu internally but with a plug which has 3 rows of pins instead of the 2 like the R33. Nistune don't do the R33 and Skyline owners swap in an R32 or Z32 ecu but that is not an option for Stageas because of the plug. An E-Manage is an option. If you go manual you can rip out the loom and get another ecu and loom (I am running a Link in mine) but probably easier to sell it and buy an S2!!

"The fuel pump has been wired up right using 10g wire and a 30A relay as per instructions and has been install and place on the bracket so it reachs bottom of the tank."

Pull the carpet back from the passenger footwell. Mine is wet and water collects under the passenger seat. The fact that the cooling system is not losing water leads me to believe that it is an exterior leak rather than the heater core... I'll have to find the drain from the sunroof(s) and the aircond to rule them out.

Long shot - I had a knock at idle turned out to be the aircond pump - try turning yours on and off to see if it makes a difference.

Pin 59 control unit + Maybe you've burnt it out by grounding it?

Mac valves are very reliable so probably not the problem. Ideally a good tuner will stick it on a dyno and pinpoint your problem. And yes overfill to kink in the dipstick for a little extra insurance.

^^^ A new Link will cost the best part of $3K fitted and tuned so unless there is something wrong with your Haltech just find a tuner who is happy to tune it.

There's a 16 page thread just a few down ...

Here are the some prices from Rips (I know there are several Aussie shops that can give you a price as well): http://www.ripsltd.com/products.html

A member with more knowledge than I have has fixed most (or all?) of the links in the DIY section of the Stagea forum - they are on page 45 of this link http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/102808-stagea-d-i-ys-how-tos-f-y-is/page__pid__6420069__st__40#entry6420069 Could you or someone who knows how put these fixed links at the beginning of the section to replace all the broken ones please?

Is that gauge holder going to replace a vent? 50mm or 60mm?